Help picking replacement speakers to go with sub and amp for Cadillac CTS

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KcContractor

CarAudio.com Recruit
I have a 2008 Cadillac CTS and I want to replace the factory speakers as well as install my JL 10W7 which is a 3OHM Speaker. The amp I'm thinking of buying is the DS18 H-KO2 Hooligan 2000 Watt RMS Monoblock Amplifier. Does it matter which speakers I go with? Can they be 3 or 4 OHM speakers? Or would only some be compatible with this sub and amp?

Looking at these for the front doors...but open to any recommendations.

 
There is some suggestions' on your other threads too. the front speakers in your caddy doors can be 5.25" or 6.5" and if you like metal domes, these are a great buy while they last, Midbass in the doors, tweeters up in the dash and at $99, about $150 off regular price.


These in the rear doors with 6.5" to 5.25 inch adapters


You really need to rethink this setup altogether. As I noted in the other reply, you need to think about the whole system, not just throwing that Jl in the car and then kind of willy nilly on the rest. Does Not work that way.

Don't worry about the one great JL sub if you're not going to compliment it with a system upgrade, money wasted in my opinion. There are whole car systems that I configure that will work for this car on a $1500 - $2000 budget that do not include that JL sub. Systems that will work well together and give you a much better result than that sub alond will ever do, by a landslide!

List what the head unit is that you are going to use and if you plan on using anything in the car from the OEM setup.
What is the budget?
What are you able to do yourself i.e build the box, install thesiring, etc.
 
There is some suggestions' on your other threads too. the front speakers in your caddy doors can be 5.25" or 6.5" and if you like metal domes, these are a great buy while they last, Midbass in the doors, tweeters up in the dash and at $99, about $150 off regular price.


These in the rear doors with 6.5" to 5.25 inch adapters


You really need to rethink this setup altogether. As I noted in the other reply, you need to think about the whole system, not just throwing that Jl in the car and then kind of willy nilly on the rest. Does Not work that way.

Don't worry about the one great JL sub if you're not going to compliment it with a system upgrade, money wasted in my opinion. There are whole car systems that I configure that will work for this car on a $1500 - $2000 budget that do not include that JL sub. Systems that will work well together and give you a much better result than that sub alond will ever do, by a landslide!

List what the head unit is that you are going to use and if you plan on using anything in the car from the OEM setup.
What is the budget?
What are you able to do yourself i.e build the box, install thesiring, etc.
Ok, so I’ve got the 10w7 and the red eye box and I just ordered this amp below. I would like to use the factory head unit only because I like the way it looks and operates with the screen that goes up and down with my display for for everything and navigation. I’d like to swap out the factory speakers in the car as well and order everything I would need for a quality installation. I’m a complete newbie to this stuff. I’m 38 y/o and had a nice system in my 2nd car and once had a jl stealth box under my seats of a truck and just miss a great sounding system. I’d like to do the rest (door speakers, rears, fronts, wiring and cables) on a budget where I either buy something of great quality pre-owned or refurbished. I don’t want junk but don’t want junk.
 

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I’ve got this one in the way
What I meant is what source will power the door speakers. If it is an amplifier, most speakers will work. If it is an OEM amplifier, we need to know the OEM speaker's resistance. If it is OEM radio, we need OEM speaker's resistance and have to seek a low power rating and higher sensitivity.
 
What I meant is what source will power the door speakers. If it is an amplifier, most speakers will work. If it is an OEM amplifier, we need to know the OEM speaker's resistance. If it is OEM radio, we need OEM speaker's resistance and have to seek a low power rating and higher sensitivity.
Well, currently I have the oem system and haven’t installed the new amp that’s being delivered or the sub which I have. I’d love to get the sub and amp hooked up asap but I would like to replace some or all of the factory Bose speakers. Is it a replace all of them or none situation or could I replace just 4 speakers for now and hook it up or leave the factory speakers for now and just hookup the amp and sub?
 
You could go with CDT 2 ohm drivers now and then make sure that the amplifier you get down the road is 2ohm compatible. These guys arte prolly ending their sa,e tomorrow.


- OR -

Get 4 ohm drivers that will not play very loud with the Bose amplifier. it appears that both 5.25" and 6.5" should fit. These are a great buy right now and you could put the midbass in your doors, teh tweets in the dash. At $99, they are about $150 off regular. Heck, get 2 pair and install the comps in the rear too. I ordered a pair for my garage!


This is the tweeter set, pretty versatile installation options. Could go surface in the rear, dash mount in the front. Since you're going to replace the amplifier, get what you like. It just won;t play very loud until you replace the amplifier.

When you're ready, you can get this to match the sub amplifier.


Or something like this if you want to save some coin.


You'll need wiring for installation and things like distro blocks, a line out converter (which you'll need either way.

 

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You could go with CDT 2 ohm drivers now and then make sure that the amplifier you get down the road is 2ohm compatible. These guys arte prolly ending their sa,e tomorrow.


- OR -

Get 4 ohm drivers that will not play very loud with the Bose amplifier. it appears that both 5.25" and 6.5" should fit. These are a great buy right now and you could put the midbass in your doors, teh tweets in the dash. At $99, they are about $150 off regular. Heck, get 2 pair and install the comps in the rear too. I ordered a pair for my garage!


This is the tweeter set, pretty versatile installation options. Could go surface in the rear, dash mount in the front. Since you're going to replace the amplifier, get what you like. It just won;t play very loud until you replace the amplifier.

When you're ready, you can get this to match the sub amplifier.


Or something like this if you want to save some coin.


You'll need wiring for installation and things like distro blocks, a line out converter (which you'll need either way.

Those speakers look fantastic. Great deal. I just purchased a DS18 amp on eBay that Is probably overkill.


How does that converter compare to this one?


 
You could go with CDT 2 ohm drivers now and then make sure that the amplifier you get down the road is 2ohm compatible. These guys arte prolly ending their sa,e tomorrow.


- OR -

Get 4 ohm drivers that will not play very loud with the Bose amplifier. it appears that both 5.25" and 6.5" should fit. These are a great buy right now and you could put the midbass in your doors, teh tweets in the dash. At $99, they are about $150 off regular. Heck, get 2 pair and install the comps in the rear too. I ordered a pair for my garage!


This is the tweeter set, pretty versatile installation options. Could go surface in the rear, dash mount in the front. Since you're going to replace the amplifier, get what you like. It just won;t play very loud until you replace the amplifier.

When you're ready, you can get this to match the sub amplifier.


Or something like this if you want to save some coin.


You'll need wiring for installation and things like distro blocks, a line out converter (which you'll need either way.

I just purchased 2 sets of those speakers you recommended. That’s such a good deal!
You could go with CDT 2 ohm drivers now and then make sure that the amplifier you get down the road is 2ohm compatible. These guys arte prolly ending their sa,e tomorrow.


- OR -

Get 4 ohm drivers that will not play very loud with the Bose amplifier. it appears that both 5.25" and 6.5" should fit. These are a great buy right now and you could put the midbass in your doors, teh tweets in the dash. At $99, they are about $150 off regular. Heck, get 2 pair and install the comps in the rear too. I ordered a pair for my garage!


This is the tweeter set, pretty versatile installation options. Could go surface in the rear, dash mount in the front. Since you're going to replace the amplifier, get what you like. It just won;t play very loud until you replace the amplifier.

When you're ready, you can get this to match the sub amplifier.


Or something like this if you want to save some coin.


You'll need wiring for installation and things like distro blocks, a line out converter (which you'll need either way.

I just ordered 2 sets of those speakers you sent me the link to. What a great deal. Crutchfield did say they won’t fit though…are they wrong?
 

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This is what they show.

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A .5" to .75" riser will surely work.

The difficulty in putting in new speakers will not be getting them in, it will be getting the Bose drivers out. They are riveted in from the rear of the door panel. Once you get them removed, you can install a riser that should allow you to put any 6.5" - 6.75" driver in there. the Pio's come with nice grills should you elect to mount them on the outside of the door panel too.
 

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