Help on what amp to purchase *Experts Please*

Brazda25

Junior Member
Currently I am running these subs: 2 KICKER CVR12 COMPVR 12" 2-Ohm 1600W Car Audio Subwoofers + a Dual 12" Vented Sub Box

MAX Power Handling: 800 Watts per sub (1600 watts per pair)

RMS Power Handling: 400 Watts per sub (800 watts per pair)

I am currently using this amp to power them: Blackmore BAC-DM60

Monoblock 2500W Amplifier

2500 Watt Mosfet Mono Block Amplifier

Maximum Power 2500 watts

RMS Power 900w x 1at 0.01% THD , 4ohms

Variable Low Pass Crossover

Variable Bass Boost Control

Remote Subwoofer Level Control

Chrome Plated RCA Inputs

Variable Gain Control

LED Power and Protection indicators

Signal to noise ratio: better than 100 DB

I am using these door speakers and tweets: JL Audio TR650-CSi 6-1/2" Evolution TR Series 2-way Component Speakers System (Pair)

6-1/2" 2-Way Component System

Peak: 200 watts per set / 100 watts each side | RMS: 100 watts per set / 50 watts each side

Frequency Response: 59 - 25,000 Hz

Sensitivity: 91 dB

Top Mount Depth: 2-1/2"

I am using these rear 6x9 speakers: JL AUDIO TR690-TXI COAXIAL 3-WAY SPEAKERS 6"x 9": Evolution Tr 6" X 9" 3-Way Speakers; Woofer-Injection-Molded, Mica-Filled, Polypropylene Cone Body; Butyl Rubber Surround; 1.25" Voice Coil On Kapton Former Flat; Ferrite Magnet; Symmetrical Roll Spider; Tweeter-0.50" Textile Dome Tweeter; Ferro Fluid Cooling / Damping; 60W Rms; Impedance 4 Ohm; Polypropylene Cone; Butyl Rubber Surround; .5" Tweeter / 2" Midrange / 6X9" Woofer.

i am using this head unit to power the door speakers: Pioneer DEH-P8400BH Mobile CD Receiver

Power Output:

Peak: 50 watts x 4 channels

Pioneer Rated RMS: 22 watts x 4 channels

CEA-2006 Rated RMS: 14 watts x 4 channels

Please take the time and look at my set up. Firstly, when I crank the bass to hard on my amp, the bass cuts out. I have to turn it all the way down and it will come back on. My cousin thinks that I am using too low of a guage of wire (4ga) and I should be using a 0/1 ga wire. Second, I need to purchase an amp to power both my front door speakers and my rear ones. Can you look at amps and show me what would be a good one to power them? Should I get an amp to power my subs, and the door and rear speakers? can i get one to do that? I went cheap and bought blackmore, which is not too good of a brand. hard to tune the amp and it doesnt hit too high on bass for some songs. And also tell me what size wiring and fuse i should have on that amp. Thanks in advance

 
First off, it sounds to me like your amp is being driven below its intended Ohm rating. Make sure that if the amp says it is 2 Ohm stable, you are running your subs at 2 Ohms, and not 1 Ohm. Without giving the Ohm ratings of the woofers, and how you have them wired, its hard to tell for sure. If the amp can take 0/1 gauge wire, you should be using that size wire. The Blackmore website does not show a good picture that I could see the power and ground terminal block on. More than likely, 4 gauge is the maximum size wire it will take. If you wanted to stick with Kicker, their KX series amps have a 800.1 monoblock amp that looks pretty clean. There are other brands out there that are cheaper, but you should use quality gear if you can afford it. Also, if you decide to not go with the Kicker, make sure your amp is based on the total RMS rating of the woofers you have. You should use an amp for the woofers, and a separate one for mids and highs. Yes, there are companies that make multi channel amps where you can wire all speakers to one amp. I don't really care for those because they tend to run lower wattages on the woofer channel than what you need. You should take the total size fuse rating, and match that at the battery. For example, if you run two power wires, one for subwoofer amp, and one for mids and highs amp, and the sub amp has two 30 amp fuses, you should run a 60 amp fuse on that power wire. Then do the same for the other amp. I hope this helps. Email me if you like for further clarification jason.bobinger@gmail.com

 
Recently I was wiring them in parallel and I believe that would be running at 1 OHM. My negative wires burned the plasic clips that were attached to my box so I unscrewed that part and now there is two small sized holes on each side of my box. I just rewired my subs in series this time and now i believe its at 4 OHMs. Would it be logical since I have a hard time getting money to buy an amp for my door speakers and rear ones or one first to replace my current ****** amp. The kicker amp looks expensive as all hell and there must be good brands at a cheaper price. Also what would I do about an amp for my mids and highs. Its hard to see what would be right.

 
If I'm understanding you correctly, you have push terminals on your box. Then you took the terminals apart, and wired directly to your amp. That said, you need to make sure you put silicone to fill the holes where your wires were attached. If you don't do that, and you have holes that are bigger than your wires, air will get out of the box. It sounds like that amp is rated at a minimum of 2 Ohms. That said, your amp is going into protection because the subs were wired lower than what the amp could properly work at. The Kicker amp that I was suggesting was exactly that, just a suggestion. You can find other companies out there that make cheaper amps that would work as well. Being that your subs are 2 Ohm, you could see about returning them and getting the 4 Ohm versions. As long as you bought them from a reputable company, they should take them back. Just tell them you want to exchange them for the 4 Ohm versions. If you bought them from a person, and not a company, your best bet is to run them in series to get the 4 Ohm rating. The amp seems to be a decent amp. Yes there are better ones out there just like with anything else. However, if you can't afford a better amp, you can run with what you currently have. Then save up and get a better amp whenever you can. I waited over a year to get the amp that I have because I refused to settle. Kenwood makes decent amps as does Pioneer. Sundown, American Bass, Treo, Autotek, and US Amps all have really good amps. Sundown, American Bass, Treo, and US Amps tend to be more expensive, but are some of the best amps on the market in my opinion. As far as the mid and high amp, you could go with the same brand as your woofer amp. If I were in your shoes, I would run with what you have right now and save up for the amps. You have to keep in mind that running two amps is going to cost more than just the amp itself. Its really up to you what you want to do. I'm not running an amp on any of my stuff except the woofer. Try posting some pictures of what you have as well, that would help.

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif

If I'm understanding you correctly, you have push terminals on your box. Then you took the terminals apart, and wired directly to your amp. That said, you need to make sure you put silicone to fill the holes where your wires were attached. If you don't do that, and you have holes that are bigger than your wires, air will get out of the box. It sounds like that amp is rated at a minimum of 2 Ohms. That said, your amp is going into protection because the subs were wired lower than what the amp could properly work at. The Kicker amp that I was suggesting was exactly that, just a suggestion. You can find other companies out there that make cheaper amps that would work as well. Being that your subs are 2 Ohm, you could see about returning them and getting the 4 Ohm versions. As long as you bought them from a reputable company, they should take them back. Just tell them you want to exchange them for the 4 Ohm versions. If you bought them from a person, and not a company, your best bet is to run them in series to get the 4 Ohm rating. The amp seems to be a decent amp. Yes there are better ones out there just like with anything else. However, if you can't afford a better amp, you can run with what you currently have. Then save up and get a better amp whenever you can. I waited over a year to get the amp that I have because I refused to settle. Kenwood makes decent amps as does Pioneer. Sundown, American Bass, Treo, Autotek, and US Amps all have really good amps. Sundown, American Bass, Treo, and US Amps tend to be more expensive, but are some of the best amps on the market in my opinion. As far as the mid and high amp, you could go with the same brand as your woofer amp. If I were in your shoes, I would run with what you have right now and save up for the amps. You have to keep in mind that running two amps is going to cost more than just the amp itself. Its really up to you what you want to do. I'm not running an amp on any of my stuff except the woofer. Try posting some pictures of what you have as well, that would help.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif blackmore a decent amp? dude really ? please dont listen to this guy.blackmore is junk ,straight up,and so are pioneer,kenwood,and the new autotek amps.problem is your amp is getting to hot because the subs impedance are wired way to low.you definately need to amp the door speakers .and anyone who says that they run just a sub amp and no amp for the front stage ,doesn't have a good system or really knows what they are talking about .,talk to some of the guys here that have been here for a while 4-7 years ,they will steer you in the right direction if you want more opinions .

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif blackmore a decent amp? dude really ? please dont listen to this guy.blackmore is junk ,straight up,and so are pioneer,kenwood,and the new autotek amps.problem is your amp is getting to hot because the subs impedance are wired way to low.you definately need to amp the door speakers .and anyone who says that they run just a sub amp and no amp for the front stage ,doesn't have a good system or really knows what they are talking about .,talk to some of the guys here that have been here for a while 4-7 years ,they will steer you in the right direction if you want more opinions .
hey i resent that...... just because i dont run a amp to my front stage doesnt mean i dont know what im talking about or my systems not good..... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
hey i resent that...... just because i dont run a amp to my front stage doesnt mean i dont know what im talking about or my systems not good..... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
with exception of a few

 
yea i would.... Ive thought about just never got around to getting one
when ready hit me up.sorry op , but you've been jacked //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif just kidding

 
Op your either wired to 2 ohm or .5 ohm. That amps specs say 900x1 @4 ohms. Check to see if it is stable below that. Seeing as how you said your melting **** I'm thinking your wired at .5 and your amp can't take it.

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif blackmore a decent amp? dude really ? please dont listen to this guy.blackmore is junk ,straight up,and so are pioneer,kenwood,and the new autotek amps.problem is your amp is getting to hot because the subs impedance are wired way to low.you definately need to amp the door speakers .and anyone who says that they run just a sub amp and no amp for the front stage ,doesn't have a good system or really knows what they are talking about .,talk to some of the guys here that have been here for a while 4-7 years ,they will steer you in the right direction if you want more opinions .
Funny

 
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Brazda25

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