Help!!! Just installed my RL-P, something is very wrong!!!

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

Turn off the internal amp on the HU.

its already off

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

17 pages and the problems still exsist. I belive it is time to take a drive to the nearest shop man. Put this to rest...

well, im gonna try to rewire the power wire today, hopefully that fixes the problems. Moving the sub firing direction did help a whole lot, but didn't fix the problem.

 

[sakufan 10+ year member]

17 pages and the problems still exsist. I belive it is time to take a drive to the nearest shop man. Put this to rest...

Agreed

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

UPDATE

Ok, some not good news right here. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif Brought it back to the shop who installed the last amp in order to use their volt-meter. This is what i found.

-Sub is measuring 1.3-1.5 ohms on the meter, amp is measuring 12.8 volts.

-We disconnected the distrobution block and ran the 4 guage from the Fuse box (i told them not to touch the wiring, i don't trust them) to my amp, and there was no difference in output from 8 guage that was previously there.

-I noticed that the sub moves alot, like a dangerous amount, and even on low volumes it sounds like it is working extremely extremely hard. It also clips and bottoms out when i turn it up. If i lower the gain, the sub is basically inaudible.

-one of the techs told me that i should buy a "real sub" with that amp, and said that the rubber surrounds as well as the cone on the sub felt like garbage, and that the sub didn't look like it could handle the amp power from hearing and watching it move. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif

So what the hell do i do now? TOmmorow we are gonna rewire the power wire to the battery, but that honestly doesn't sound like it will fix it. To me it sounds like this sub cannot handle anywhere near this power, it is being pushed way too hard and sounds like it is on its brinks the whole time i am listening to it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif If connecting it to the battery doesn't help, i am gonna have to sell the sub and try again. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

Im really sorry to keep bothering you guys, but this shit is really pissing me off, i invested alot of money and time into this sub and amp combo, and i must say i have experienced nothign but dissapoitment from this point so far.

 

[stones 10+ year member]

Put it in a ported ******** box and Shaddup already!!.

Every complaint I ever heard regarding the output a Soundsplinter sub was from someone relativly new to car audio running the sub in a smaller sealed box.

Everybody that did not complain was more experienced in car audio and was using either a large sealed or ported box and would kill their mothers before giving up their Soundsplinter sub.

You can take a million dollar speaker, put it the wrong enclosure and it will sound like shit.

[/End of thread]

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

Put it in a ported ******** box and Shaddup already!!.
Every complaint I ever heard regarding the output a Soundsplinter sub was from someone relativly new to car audio running the sub in a smaller sealed box.

Everybody that did not complain was more experienced in car audio and was using either a large sealed or ported box and would kill their mothers before giving up their Soundsplinter sub.

You can take a million dollar speaker, put it the wrong enclosure and it will sound like shit.

[/End of thread]

Why would the sub sound liek it is being severely overpowered then in that box? If the box is too small, woulddn't it not move alot, instead of moving like crazy and clipping like it is now?

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

And there is no reason to yell at me, from what everyone told me this sub would be not necessary ideal in my box, but work ok. And right now i am very upset with its performance. So i bet you can see where i am coming from with this.

 

[Hundreth 10+ year member]

Put it in a ported ******** box and Shaddup already!!.
Every complaint I ever heard regarding the output a Soundsplinter sub was from someone relativly new to car audio running the sub in a smaller sealed box.

Everybody that did not complain was more experienced in car audio and was using either a large sealed or ported box and would kill their mothers before giving up their Soundsplinter sub.

You can take a million dollar speaker, put it the wrong enclosure and it will sound like shit.

[/End of thread]

Um, BS...

He says he ran his infinity perfect in the same enclosure and said it sounded good. The RL-P in that same box should destroy it in both sq and output.

As for your comment about more experienced users running it in big sealed boxes or ported, thats not true.

IIRC, squeak runs his RL-P in a 1.3 cu ft sealed box and says the output is more than enough for him... so i really doubt the sealed box is his problem.

 

[stones 10+ year member]

I'm outta smokes *grumbles*

4.4.2  Sealed Box
-----------------

  *    Advantages...
       -       Small enclosure volumes

       -       Shallow (12 dB/Octave) roll off on low end

       -       Excellent power handling at extremely low frequencies

       -       Excellent transient response/ group delay
         characteristics

       -       Easy to build and design

       -       Forgiving of design and construction errors

  *    Disadvantages...
       -       Not particularly efficient

       -       Marginal power handling in upper bass frequencies

       -       Increased distortion in upper bass over ported design

       -       When using high power and small box, magnet structure
         is not in an ideal cooling environment


4.4.3  Ported Box
-----------------

  *    Advantages...
       -       3-4 dB more efficient overall than sealed design

       -       Handles upper bass frequencies better with less
         distortion

       -       Magnet is in good cooling environment

       -       When properly designed, a ported box will slaughter a
         sealed in terms of low frequency extension

  *    Disadvantages...
       -       Size (not so critical outside the mobile environment)

       -       Woofer unloads below Fb

       -       More difficult to design/ can result in boomy, nasty
         sounding bass if misaligned

:threadloc

 

[allenzo 10+ year member]

Since you have a defective sub how much are you selling it for? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[stones 10+ year member]

Um, BS...
He says he ran his infinity perfect in the same enclosure and said it sounded good. The RL-P in that same box should destroy it in both sq and output.

As for your comment about more experienced users running it in big sealed boxes or ported, thats not true.

IIRC, squeak runs his RL-P in a 1.3 cu ft sealed box and says the output is more than enough for him... so i really doubt the sealed box is his problem.

Quote from Soundplinter (AKA-mike)

Definitely get your power wiring set straight to the battery!

.. and like I told you in our email correspondance, your box sounds like it's between 0.8 - 0.85 cu ft net, which is honestly just too small for how most people prefer their RL-p's. It'll still sound good, and some people actually don't mind the muted low-end, but when dropping below 1.2 cu ft net you will start to stifle the low-frequency extension and overall output.

If you get your wiring checked out / redone, and you throw that RL-p12 in a 1.25 cu ft net sealed box (or better yet, a 1.5 cu ft net ported box tuned to 34 Hz), you will undoubtedly notice a drastic improvement in output. Glad to hear repositioning your enclosure helped somewhat, but you really need to get the power issue solved, and throw that sucka in a bigger box - you'll be glad you did!

_______________________

~mike

I= teh win

 

[_PuNiShEr_ 10+ year member]

1. Find a buddy with an amp that will push your sub and that you know works. Try your sub on his amp and see how it sounds.

2. Try his sub on your amp and see how it sounds.

3. If his sub sounds good on your amp your amp is okay along with your wiring. If your sub sounds good on his amp your sub is okay.

That should find the weak link.

Just make sure they are comparable in power.

PuN

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

Since you have a defective sub how much are you selling it for? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

well, i don't think its defective, the member on this board that i bought it from told me it was never used or anything, and personally i just think it cannot handle 1200 watts rms on a daily basis.

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

1. Find a buddy with an amp that will push your sub and that you know works. Try your sub on his amp and see how it sounds.2. Try his sub on your amp and see how it sounds.

3. If his sub sounds good on your amp your amp is okay along with your wiring. If your sub sounds good on his amp your sub is okay.

That should find the weak link.

Just make sure they are comparable in power.

PuN

I don't know anyone with a high powered amp or sub, all my friends have shitty low powered amps and low grade subs so that wouldn't really prove much.