Help Deciding on what amp to get

[Spyder01NC]

Hey im getting one 12" kicker l5 sub. and i cant decide on what amp to get its either the Kicker 08ZX4001 amp or the Kicker 08ZX7501 amp. Any Suggestions?

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[23sql]

depends on your price range

 

[Spyder01NC]

Im not worried about the price range i gotta buddy that gets kicker discounts so thats not a problem. Im jus trying to fig. out what would be the best amp. Im afraid of the 7501 one being to powerful and either blowing the sub. or ******* all the life out of my eclectrical system in my car. And also is would the 400 be to less of power for the sub. By the way i have a 2001 mitsubishi eclipse spyder and im either going to put the box in my trunk or in my back seat.

 

[t1n0m3n 10+ year member]

Kicker L5 = 600 watt sub

zx750.1 = 375 watt amp

zx400.1 = 200 watt amp

I would recommend the zx1000.1 amp for this speaker.

 

[Macklessdaddy 10+ year member]

Kicker L5 = 600 watt subzx750.1 = 375 watt amp

zx400.1 = 200 watt amp

I would recommend the zx1000.1 amp for this speaker.

uh you can use an amp at other than 4 ohms homes:laugh:

op I would get a 750.1 for headroom

 

[subfrontier 10+ year member]

uh you can use an amp at other than 4 ohms homes:laugh:
op I would get a 750.1 for headroom

x2 on the 750

 

[t1n0m3n 10+ year member]

uh you can use an amp at other than 4 ohms homes:laugh:
op I would get a 750.1 for headroom

LOL, however, when pairing subs to amps, it is best to compare everything at 4 ohms to get a good match.

My rule of thumb is to hit 75% to 100% of the RMS rating of the sub by the amp at it's 4 ohm rating. This makes sure that you can hit the maximum potential of the sub distortion free. Remember, you can always turn it down if it is too much power, but you can't turn it up if it is not enough.

Personally, I like high ohm, high power for greater control of the sub by a class D amp. The result is incredibly tight bass. I usually shoot for 150% of the sub's RMS and adjust the gains down accordingly. All components tend to last a LOT longer using this method. One other benefit is the ability to run full power for hours on end with no thermal shutdown.

 

[lyttleviet 10+ year member]

LOL, however, when pairing subs to amps, it is best to compare everything at 4 ohms to get a good match.
My rule of thumb is to hit 75% to 100% of the RMS rating of the sub by the amp at it's 4 ohm rating. This makes sure that you can hit the maximum potential of the sub distortion free. Remember, you can always turn it down if it is too much power, but you can't turn it up if it is not enough.

Personally, I like high ohm, high power for greater control of the sub by a class D amp. The result is incredibly tight bass. I usually shoot for 150% of the sub's RMS and adjust the gains down accordingly. All components tend to last a LOT longer using this method. One other benefit is the ability to run full power for hours on end with no thermal shutdown.

I agree with your comments on headroom but I disagree that you yield a tighter bass with a higher ohm load on your woofer. I have done everything from 8 to 1 and its all the same if you are comparing apples to apples.

 

[Spyder01NC]

ok so i should get the 7501 one and run it at 4ohms im jus afraid of it being to much power for my car. i mean ill prob. end up putting the sub in my backseat since i dont have much trunk room.

 

[Crownvicon28s 10+ year member]

ok so i should get the 7501 one and run it at 4ohms im jus afraid of it being to much power for my car. i mean ill prob. end up putting the sub in my backseat since i dont have much trunk room.

I would run it at 2 ohms and watch the gains.

 

[Macklessdaddy 10+ year member]

LOL, however, when pairing subs to amps, it is best to compare everything at 4 ohms to get a good match.
My rule of thumb is to hit 75% to 100% of the RMS rating of the sub by the amp at it's 4 ohm rating. This makes sure that you can hit the maximum potential of the sub distortion free. Remember, you can always turn it down if it is too much power, but you can't turn it up if it is not enough.

Personally, I like high ohm, high power for greater control of the sub by a class D amp. The result is incredibly tight bass. I usually shoot for 150% of the sub's RMS and adjust the gains down accordingly. All components tend to last a LOT longer using this method. One other benefit is the ability to run full power for hours on end with no thermal shutdown.

From my time being on these forums,what you are saying is untrue.