Help battery died!Yellow top and/or Kinetik

[B_Campbell 10+ year member]

My car battery died the other day and as I am getting ready to put my system together I thought I might as well get the batterys out of the way. I already have a Ohio Generator 275 amp alt, so I have plenty of alt power.

As for batteries my choices are either a d34 yellow top in the front and some other battery in the back later (or buy a G31 tonight), like order a kinetik 1800 (or bigger) today and maybe buy install yellow top today so I can get my car back on my rode and install the kinetik when it gets here next week. - Would that even be safe?

How do kinetik 1800's compare to YT 34 and 31's?

Should I buy a YT group 34 and 31 tonight and just wire them up together or would I be safe to get a yellow top 34 now and wire up a kinetik next week?

OR, should I go to wal-mart, get a cheap *** battery and order 2 kinetik 1800's tonight, that way I have a new battery to drive my car with while in I wait - I really want to do 1800's for the reserve and the fact that I would have matching batterys, only problem with that is I dont want to have to buy a walmart battery just to use for a few days.

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[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

the kinetiks will give you alot more reserve. 55 ah for the yt vs 81 for the 1800. 2 1800's with your alt should be great for up to 4000 watts day in and out

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

if you got a big enough alt to run your system, i don't see the need to spend so much on a battery under the hood.

 

[phyphoestilic 5,000+ posts]

B_campbell what are u going to be running? but like Iceteebone said I think with a alt that puts out that much u rpobably wont need more than just 1 deepcycle under the hood. Unless ur planning on doing DB drag or playing with the car off alot, where u would need the reserve.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

if he has a system that requires a 275 amp alt i would not skimp on the reserve an alt isnt always 275 amps and it doesnt just do all the work....

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

if he has a system that requires a 275 amp alt i would not skimp on the reserve an alt isnt always 275 amps and it doesnt just do all the work....

then he'll need a bigger alt. theoretically your electronic devices should be running on the alternator when the engine is running and not drawing on the battery. he says he's adding a second battery so that would be his reserve right there if he isolates the 2 batteries.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

then are you trying to say that 2200-2400 watts is all a car with a high ouput alt (300amp is usually about as big as they can go remember you need some left for the car itself). and a hi output alt isnt always hi output particularly at idle (where its not usually much better than factory) . he wouldnt need an isolator at all unless he does alot of listening with the car off if he used the isolator he would/could be cutting his reserve in half and he would get an added voltage drop due to the isolator. (isolators have their place but its dependant on its use).

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

then are you trying to say that 2200-2400 watts is all a car with a high ouput alt (300amp is usually about as big as they can go remember you need some left for the car itself). and a hi output alt isnt always hi output particularly at idle (where its not usually much better than factory) . he wouldnt need an isolator at all unless he does alot of listening with the car off if he used the isolator he would/could be cutting his reserve in half and he would get an added voltage drop due to the isolator. (isolators have their place but its dependant on its use).

i have no idea what you just said lol. your gonna have to re-phrase/re-word it

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

a hi output alt is generally 50% at idle ....... an isolator is only good for parking and listening when you are worried you might kill the front battery...an isolator creates a voltage drop and it also doesnt tap into the front battery's reserve capacity....

 

[B_Campbell 10+ year member]

yall dont understand, i OWN a 275 amp alt ohio generator alt, from when I was going to do an spl system in my car. Now I will be running a Zapco c2k 9.0, a Zapco Ref 350.2 and a ARC amp that does 50watts for my horns, its a CXL series or waht ever.

What I am asking is would it be ok to run a yellow top under the hood for a week and then add a 1800 paraellel next week when they come in, or should I just wait and buy a battery to hold me over and order 2 kinetik 1800's. This is for a daily ground pounder, not a competition car.

 

[B_Campbell 10+ year member]

would it be safe to hook up a 1800 to a yellow top later?!?

This isnt about the alt, it is about what would be best for my wallet but still provide me plenty of power for the Zapco. I just want to keep my voltage high, as I will be running this system and nitrous and like a carputer possibly next year.

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

a hi output alt is generally 50% at idle ....... an isolator is only good for parking and listening when you are worried you might kill the front battery...an isolator creates a voltage drop and it also doesnt tap into the front battery's reserve capacity....

i'm assuming this is a daily driver, so i would imagine or hope he isn't one of those douchebags who balsts at stereo at stoplights or in parking spots just to be heard, so anyways if you add a D31 yellowtop in the trunk, that should be enough reserve. when i wired my D31 in the trunk and everstart maxx under the hood i maintained a constant 14.6 under the hood, and 14.5 at the amps. just seem frivolous to pay double for an under the hood battery. plus i had no problem with voltage drops at an idle with my mean-green alt. now this excessive amperage alt is another story

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

yall dont understand, i OWN a 275 amp alt ohio generator alt, from when I was going to do an spl system in my car. Now I will be running a Zapco c2k 9.0, a Zapco Ref 350.2 and a ARC amp that does 50watts for my horns, its a CXL series or waht ever.
What I am asking is would it be ok to run a yellow top under the hood for a week and then add a 1800 paraellel next week when they come in, or should I just wait and buy a battery to hold me over and order 2 kinetik 1800's. This is for a daily ground pounder, not a competition car.

i understand but my suggestion is get a good starter battery like a everstart maxx, and get a deep cycle for in the back.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

you can do it either way but with the kinetik you will get more reserve which means if you drew power from the batteries over a longer time it will have less of a loss. also if you keep both batteries the same it will charge better

 

[B_Campbell 10+ year member]

i'm assuming this is a daily driver, so i would imagine or hope he isn't one of those douchebags who balsts at stereo at stoplights or in parking spots just to be heard, so anyways if you add a D31 yellowtop in the trunk, that should be enough reserve. when i wired my D31 in the trunk and everstart maxx under the hood i maintained a constant 14.6 under the hood, and 14.5 at the amps. just seem frivolous to pay double for an under the hood battery. plus i had no problem with voltage drops at an idle with my mean-green alt. now this excessive amperage alt is another story

the 1800 wont cost much more than the G34 yellow top will locally.
I like my music loud, not all the time, but I want to be able to have the power when I feel like cranking it.