having trouble making the 16band eq sound good

[The Camry]

Which would involve crossing my sub high as well. What do you have your x-overs at?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Which would involve crossing my sub high as well. What do you have your x-overs at?

80 hpf, 80 lpf. My sub takes care of the 60-80hz region of lower midbass rather well so i have the mids focus on the upper midbass drum kick and overall output. Have you sealed and deadened doors yet?

 

[The Camry]

deadened, yes. Sealed. Kinda not really. With the layer mlv/acoustic foam/ door panel. its a good seal but its not like an enclosure like it should be.

My sub takes care of midbass great too but it pulls the stage behind me and thats what im battling with.

Door before i did any deadening or anything. see how its a big friggin hole.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

might wanna go 3 way in the future with a dedicated midbass then.

 

[The Camry]

ID LOVE TOO but id need another amp and running 3 way +sub active with a 80prs is just...tricky to say the least.

 

[The Camry]

Ive kinda come to the conclusion that i dont want to spend any more money on this car. its a 94 camry with some dents and its scratches. 3 way done the way id want to do it would be glassing A-pillars and totally sealed doors and run active. Its ALOT of work to run active 3 way and getting it time aligned and sounding right. Right now my stage is pretty nice with just a 2 way.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Seal the door up

 

[The Camry]

Sigh, this is giving me so much trouble. im about ready to set it on flat and ******* leave it.

Is it better to extend midrange in tweeter territory or extend tweeter down as in

should i go from 85-5k with the midrange and then run the tweeter 4k upwards. or is it better to run 85-4k and tweeter 3.5 upwards

 

[gstokes]

... my tweeter range is 2-3 db higher than everything else.

Wire a 25 ohm ceramic resistor in parallel with the tweeter, that's good for 2db cut OR build an L-pad attenuation network..

 

[gstokes]

My sub takes care of midbass great too but it pulls the stage behind me and thats what im battling with.

I have the same problem with my van, the subs are all the way in the back, the only way to fix it is by mounting the subs closer to the other speakers so I'm going to build a custom 3.5 cubic foot vented enclosure that will fit between the driver and passenger seat, that will put the subs within 2.5 feet of me and both the tweeters and midbass, am quite sure it's going to sound AWESOME and move the soundstage all the way forward, right where it needs to be.

Tweeters on the dash firing backwards, midbass in the doors firing sideways and the subs sitting directly beside and below me firing upwards, bring ear protection //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[The Camry]

I have the same problem with my van, the subs are all the way in the back, the only way to fix it is by mounting the subs closer to the other speakers so I'm going to build a custom 3.5 cubic foot vented enclosure that will fit between the driver and passenger seat, that will put the subs within 2.5 feet of me and both the tweeters and midbass, am quite sure it's going to sound AWESOME and move the soundstage all the way forward, right where it needs to be.Tweeters on the dash firing backwards, midbass in the doors firing sideways and the subs sitting directly beside and below me firing upwards, bring ear protection //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I know with proper time alignment and a strong midbass. You dont need to do that because the midbass blends the bass and moves it forward. I just have a big *** hole in my door and thus my midbass isnt nearly what it should be.

i did an install on a friends honda. Hondas doors are almost an entire sealed enclosure. We were having problems with his bass amp and it was hard to figure out when the bass was hitting or not because he had that much midbass. Think of having two 8in subwoofers in your doors but instead its a 6.5 and it plays midbass. Strong enough midbass blends everything bass and sub bass

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I know with proper time alignment and a strong midbass. You dont need to do that because the midbass blends the bass and moves it forward. I just have a big *** hole in my door and thus my midbass isnt nearly what it should be.
i did an install on a friends honda. Hondas doors are almost an entire sealed enclosure. We were having problems with his bass amp and it was hard to figure out when the bass was hitting or not because he had that much midbass. Think of having two 8in subwoofers in your doors but instead its a 6.5 and it plays midbass. Strong enough midbass blends everything bass and sub bass

Stock paper cone speakers normally dont get that loud vocally but produce full range pretty well so its not midbass you are hearing, its distorted 40-60hz bass also it seems loud but its actually distortion making it seemingly loud and bumping.

You just need more power to your mids and attenuate the tweeters more and seal up that hole. SEAL it up before doing anything I'm about to suggest.

Lets start all over man.

-Flat settings, auto EQ off. Sub woofer off(or -36 db on the Low low pass network). Gain up on the amp more, Go to network 1, select the high high pass filter, then go to network 2 and cut the DB level to -24 db for now

-play the songs that normally sound wrong to you

-set the head unit volume to to the loudest you wanna be at.

-Go to network 1, select the mid low pass filter, go to network 2 and extend to the 3.5k/4k/5k range, go between 12 or 24 db slope and choose depending on what sounds better. If you hear the mids bleeding sharp sibilance in the upper range, you'll now know that it might be comming from the mids and go down in crossover point as needed, if you dont hear it then you can keep it high. With more power, you should be getting more midbass along with your midrange, hertz mids can take quite a bit more power.

-Then go to network 1 and go to high high pass filter then go to network 2 and start increasing the DB levels until it blends and evens out with the midrange and set the crossover point and db slope. (a tip to see the difference between crossover points for the tweeters is, to reduce the level on the mids to -24db and switch out to see what sounds like what with different crossover points and db slopes)

-Turn the subwoofer on/re-raise the db level and set the crossovers until it starts blending with your mids, yes you can go up to 80 or 100hz as long as the output matches the midbass levels, then you are fine.

-Do NOT expect lower midbass from a 6.5 to keep up with a strong substage blaring at max sub output. If you want it SQ and blending, lower the sub's output to match the mids. IF you just wanna jam, then forget about midbass or how the subs bring the soundstage back and just go crazy with the subs to get your spl fix. You cant have your cake and eat it too unless you have bigger/better midbass setup.

NOW that you are all done with the level matching you can either go to auto EQ it up or tune it yourself, remember you are still playing the songs at the loudest level, your ears will hurt but bear with it.

Tuning it yourself:

-Now go to the EQ and start cutting or boosting(max i'd go is +2/3 for midbass region boost) even though it should currently be ear bleeding loud enough for you to want to mainly cut frequencies to even out the sound. Tip: Get used to what each hz range sounds like by completely removing it and seeing how the music sounds without it then bump it high up to see what the music sounds like with too much of it. Use the EQ to your taste

If you want to use auto EQ

- engage in auto EQ then fine tune time alignments and the Equalizer to cut or boost frequencies like the step above ^

 

[The Camry]

How much boost is it safe for the mid+high frequencies? I've always heard your not supposed to boost.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

How much boost is it safe for the mid+high frequencies? I've always heard your not supposed to boost.

I would reduce and use gain/volume control to bring up the output.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

That's why you need a RTA. You build the curve from the weakest. You can use crossover points and slopes to boost safely.