Grounding terminal?

Foote
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
Hey..my truck is old so most of the frame bolts are rusted...and there arent many easily accesable ones to choose from..so ive been looking for grounding options..all i can find is these:

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/fp/sret/1221721021521019222217282223220283224225286219218231290223228231296225224243234237244235232245250249250/vpid/1557375/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046/sret/1221721021521019222217282223220283224225286219218231290223228231296225224243234237244235232247232233248

But I cant find much info on them....what do they do exactly? How do you use them?

 
You run your ground to that, and screw that to your trunk (or where ever else), and it'll ground it. If you cannot sand down a surface and screw it down, I doubt that'll help much more, and I'd run the ground up to the battery

 
well..thatd take like another butt-load of 1/0 gauge wiring...and I thought you wanted to keep ground wires short?
you can keep ground wires short. but it really wont make that much of a difference.

in fact youd want to keep both power, ground, speaker wire, rca's, etc all as short as possible if you could, but you cant.

what kind of car you got? i dont consider 10-16' (depending on car), a butt load of 1/0

 
That lets you screw your ground wire into the metal of your truck. It would be the same as you using a ring terminal then using sheet metal screws.

1557375


 
That lets you screw your ground wire into the metal of your truck. It would be the same as you using a ring terminal then using sheet metal screws.
x2.

main thing is metal to metal contact.

find a flat metal spot, make sure theres not a gastank or anything else on the other side of it, sand to the metal, drill a hole and use a sheet metal screw to secure your ring terminal...

 
It looks like it will be a much cleaner ground then the frame of the truck though...ya know?
not really.

**** still had to attach to the "frame" (your probably not going to a frame, but rather some sheet metal), with some screws or bolts. a ring terminal does the same thing, just looks less fancy.

rust, paint, or any other coating will cause a shitty ground. and if you got rust on certain areas of your car, how do you know there isnt rust at where the welds are? or anywhere else that the electricity has to travel to reach the negitive terminal anyway.

running it up to the batt neg, will guarantee a perfect ground. most people also argue its best to have 3' or less of ground. well what do you think happens after that 3' or ground? the electricity runs through the frame of the car anyway, basically acting like a wiring, and making that 3' ground wire, 10-16', just like if you had run the 1/0 in the first place.

 
not really.
**** still had to attach to the "frame" (your probably not going to a frame, but rather some sheet metal), with some screws or bolts. a ring terminal does the same thing, just looks less fancy.

rust, paint, or any other coating will cause a shitty ground. and if you got rust on certain areas of your car, how do you know there isnt rust at where the welds are?

running it up to the batt neg, will guarantee a perfect ground.
ok...so would it be better to ground it to a rusty / dirty / painty ground without this thing...OR would it be better to bolt this thing to the rusty/dirty part then use it for the ground?

 
ok...so would it be better to ground it to a rusty / dirty / painty ground without this thing...OR would it be better to bolt this thing to the rusty/dirty part then use it for the ground?
neither.

either you sand it down to bare shiny metal, or dont waste your time with a system.

all im saying is the 1/0 is your best bet.

 
neither.
either you sand it down to bare shiny metal, or dont waste your time with a system.

agreed 100%

ive been grounding amps for over 10 years and i have never used some fancy grounding thing and i have never done it without sanding the said area first.

 
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Foote

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