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Grounding terminal?
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<blockquote data-quote="IgnoreMe" data-source="post: 3466658" data-attributes="member: 551352"><p>not really.</p><p></p><p>shit still had to attach to the "frame" (your probably not going to a frame, but rather some sheet metal), with some screws or bolts. a ring terminal does the same thing, just looks less fancy.</p><p></p><p>rust, paint, or any other coating will cause a shitty ground. and if you got rust on certain areas of your car, how do you know there isnt rust at where the welds are? or anywhere else that the electricity has to travel to reach the negitive terminal anyway.</p><p></p><p>running it up to the batt neg, will guarantee a perfect ground. most people also argue its best to have 3' or less of ground. well what do you think happens after that 3' or ground? the electricity runs through the frame of the car anyway, basically acting like a wiring, and making that 3' ground wire, 10-16', just like if you had run the 1/0 in the first place.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="IgnoreMe, post: 3466658, member: 551352"] not really. shit still had to attach to the "frame" (your probably not going to a frame, but rather some sheet metal), with some screws or bolts. a ring terminal does the same thing, just looks less fancy. rust, paint, or any other coating will cause a shitty ground. and if you got rust on certain areas of your car, how do you know there isnt rust at where the welds are? or anywhere else that the electricity has to travel to reach the negitive terminal anyway. running it up to the batt neg, will guarantee a perfect ground. most people also argue its best to have 3' or less of ground. well what do you think happens after that 3' or ground? the electricity runs through the frame of the car anyway, basically acting like a wiring, and making that 3' ground wire, 10-16', just like if you had run the 1/0 in the first place. [/QUOTE]
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Grounding terminal?
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