ground options for crew cab 2500hd

[Chaotic_Thought 10+ year member]

So I need to do a ground for my setup. It is relatively mild now but once finances clear up I will upgrade. With that in mind I was thinking of 1/0 to a bolt through the cab floor and then from the other side of the bolt to the frame. Well this cause a ground loop? Is it even necessary?

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[bhsdriller 10+ year member]

would be easier/better to just drill a hole and go straight to the frame

 

[Chaotic_Thought 10+ year member]

would be easier/better to just drill a hole and go straight to the frame

My only issue with this is by using a bolt and ring terminal i can run the cable parallel to the floor, where as a grommet would cause the cable to run perpendicular and would stick up. I am using Ixos 1/0 and it isn't the most flexible wire i have used before. The same issue would be present under the cab, and i do a fair amount of off roading and i worry about it snagging on a rogue branch or something when i drive across tall grass fields. With a bolt i would be able to run it tight under the cab and drop it near the body mount and into the frame rail.

 

[Chaotic_Thought 10+ year member]

Mainly i just need to know if it will create a ground loop.

 

[All_Logix 10+ year member]

To answer your question, you really need to use a meter and test the potential difference between the battery neg post and the area you are trying to ground to.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Mainly i just need to know if it will create a ground loop.

No, it will not create a ground loop.

 

[2kyukon 10+ year member]

Put bolt where cab meets frame this is how mine currently is on 3k single cab silverado

 

[Chaotic_Thought 10+ year member]

Put bolt where cab meets frame this is how mine currently is on 3k single cab silverado

I have a 2007.5 2500hd, body mounts are completely different. None of the factory bolts are good ground spots. Hence making my own.

 

[bbeljefe]

What you're doing is fine but not necessary if you install a big three upgrade. By ensuring that you have a good bond between alternator, frame, battery and body you can ground to virtually any other point on the frame or body with no problems. That said, if you do what you're talking about and the alternator is still only bonded to the frame, battery and body with the small factory grounds, you won't have the current carrying capacity you think you do.

The idea with grounding is to get a complete bonded path, that's capable of carrying a high current, from your amplifier to the case of the alternator. How you accomplish that is of no consequence.