Ground connection

do which ever --- you can measure the voltage difference. You guys are right about saying -- is the little bit of resistance worth while to eliminate. I'm just saying there is LESS resistance this way thats ALL.

 
Originally posted by chris229 do which ever --- you can measure the voltage difference. You guys are right about saying -- is the little bit of resistance worth while to eliminate. I'm just saying there is LESS resistance this way thats ALL.
You are incorrect. And if you have a DMM that can read into the .001 ohm range, then you are doing well, and should know that you are wrong, as you can afford such a sensitive piece of equipment..

There will be more resistance going through the chassis at the two connection points than there will be with a direct connect. You have eliminated two non-uniform connections by directly connecting to the battery.

 
Originally posted by jlaine  

You are incorrect. And if you have a DMM that can read into the .001 ohm range, then you are doing well, and should know that you are wrong, as you can afford such a sensitive piece of equipment..

 

There will be more resistance going through the chassis at the two connection points than there will be with a direct connect. You have eliminated two non-uniform connections by directly connecting to the battery.
you will only have 1 more connection point on a chassis connection. your right does the connection in this last connect equal more than the given resistance of connecting to the battey directly through this depends on length of battery direct connect wire
 
Originally posted by chris229 you will only have 1 more connection point on a chassis connection. your right does the connection in this last connect equal more than the given resistance of connecting to the battey directly through this depends on length of battery direct connect wire
You will have two more connection points, not one.

Battery to cable, cable to chassis, chassis to cable, cable to amp.

Two junction points on the chassis, as apposed to none with the alternate..

The length of wire is short because the battery is in the trunk, and I know you don't have a machine that can measure it's resistance accurately...

 
Originally posted by jlaine

You will have two more connection points, not one.

Battery to cable, cable to chassis, chassis to cable, cable to amp.
you got me on that-- don't know what it was thinking
Two junction points on the chassis, as apposed to none with the alternate..

The length of wire is short because the battery is in the trunk, and I know you don't have a machine that can measure it's resistance accurately...
voltage drop with a known current is a good test. After thinking about it. I think you guys got me on that one.
 
personally either way will work..thats how i judge (sorry) the amount of power gained or lost doing it either way is meaningless...every amp i have installed ran just fine using chassis ground (batteries are chassis ground and i think cc did hit ya over the head to do that (its more of a question or asking) i wouldnt tell you you gotta do that but inturn it does make for a neat package. i ground my systems the way MECP says not to (common ground even with the head unit if needed) i run into noise having 4 grounds my systems have no more than 2. only one time did i ever get noise from a ground... is 10 watts maybe of power worth this arguement? is the 25 bucks for the battery post? dunno cause in a system 25 bucks isnt anything..10 watts in a 100 watt system isnt anything...simply put i spend time deciding where things go so i CAN do my system my way and if i can use a distrobution block i will (acts about the same as your new battery post) or do the batt post thing..eventually will cost about the same and either can look pretty lol. also remember i always run multiple amps and proccessors and also a ground problem is determined by other means other than "just moving it around"

 
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