zacjones99
Junior Member
I've got the following equipment to work with on my truck install:
Clarion dxz785usb for HU with 3-way active crossover, EQ and time alignment
DLS Iridium 6.2
Q-form kickpanels
(2) EU-700
(2) SQ10
Jensen KA5 amplifier
4 x 50W @ 4ohms + 1 x 125W @ 4 ohms
2 x 250w @ 4ohms (bridged) + 1 x 250w @ 2ohms
Audiocontrol DQT and DXS (I don't plan on using them but will if I have to)
So I've got a standard cab '93 F150 where the top of the seat is basically one with the rear window. I crammed 2 SQ10's behind the bench seat directly behind the driver and passenger in .3cf sealed boxes and let them loose with the 250w sub channel off a Jensen KA5.
Didn't work out too well for me because those locations have the subs firing directly into cardboard + plastic + closed cell foam + cloth (I have the inflatable lumbar support option). So not much sound is getting through there. In fact it's buzzing like hell and sounds like ****.
So my next step for fitting subs behind the seat could go a number of ways:
I could try removing the cardboard and applying deadener to both sides, maybe some deadener to the back side of the lumbar support bag, and see if that offers any improvement, but I'm afraid I might be fighting a losing battle firing the subs into a brick wall from less about 1" away. In this scenario each SQ10 gets 125w.
I could put one of the SQ10's in the garage and slide the other over to the spot between the driver and passenger. This would lighten the load on the amp, but the single SQ10 would still only get 125w.
I could build a downfiring box for the EU-700's so the subs would have additional room to breathe via the space under the seat. Again the EU-700's would be getting 125w each in a ported enclosure here. I think the EU-700's at 125w ported are a better match to the amp than the SQ10 at 125w sealed. The SQ10 is a little underpowered at only 125w.
I empty the area behind the seat and just run what I like in the doors for subs.
Depending on what happened behind the seat, I would then decide how to proceed with the doors. I've got enough depth to mount either the SQ10's or the EU700's high up in the front of the doors in the stock mounting locations just under those little triangular windows. I could even get the EU-700's and the SQ10's in the doors if that was an option, but I'm pretty sure you can't just shove 2 different drivers into the same enclosure when they share a crossover point in the bass realm.
If I end up running midbass and subs, I'll use the 125wpc sub channel for the subs and bridge the 4 channels from the KA5 to 250wpc for the door speakers. In this scenario I'll need to buy another 4 channel amp for the DLS components.
Another option would be to forget about midbass drivers and just run either the EU700's or the SQ10's as subs in the doors (they would share power off the sub channel and not be stereo) and nothing behind the back seat. In this scenario the subs would be getting 125wpc from the sub channel, leaving the 50w x 4 available for the DLS component set. In this scenario I wouldn't need to worry about buying and fitting another amp behind the seat. Now, space wouldn't be a problem if I chose to go with the single SQ10 behind the seat in the middle, but it would get pretty crowded back there if I try to go with 2 subs and add another amp. Doable, but it will require mounting the amps on the back wall, one on top of the other. This would require me to put a few screws through the back wall, visible from the outside to a potential thief who knows what to look for.
If I end up going with midbass and subs, I figure I'll probably bandpass the midbass at something like 80 to 150 or 200hz, and run the sub from 80hz on down. If I end up doing just the subs in the door I'll probably cross over at 125hz, and doing just the sub(s) behind the seat I'll probably try to cross over at 80-100hz.
I'm hoping to get away with just using the EQ on the HU and sub section of the amp, but if it really needed some more EQ'ing I could cough up $50 for a 1/2 din EQ for the subs if I thought it would help. I've also got an Audiocontrol DQS and DQT in the closet if I need to bring out the big guns, but I'm hoping a good install will eliminate the need for any additional EQ's. Less is more there.
I'm going all active with time alignment off a Clarion dxz785usb. The time alignment for the midbass in the doors and the sub(s) behind the seat will have to be the same for my setup. I'll have to rely on phase control for any further adjustment between the two as I'll be depending on the amp's crossovers to split the signal from the midbass to the sub.
I'm not usually one for Q-forms, but I found some for $30 and figured I'd give them a try. Hopefully I'll be able to make them sound alright with a little extra deadening and careful work on the space behind the kicks. If not, I may have to try out building some custom kicks or have some made.
So this is what I have to work with.
What's the way to go here? This is only my second or third time around with car stereos, so I could use some knowledgable advice. Thanks. Zac.
Clarion dxz785usb for HU with 3-way active crossover, EQ and time alignment
DLS Iridium 6.2
Q-form kickpanels
(2) EU-700
(2) SQ10
Jensen KA5 amplifier
4 x 50W @ 4ohms + 1 x 125W @ 4 ohms
2 x 250w @ 4ohms (bridged) + 1 x 250w @ 2ohms
Audiocontrol DQT and DXS (I don't plan on using them but will if I have to)
So I've got a standard cab '93 F150 where the top of the seat is basically one with the rear window. I crammed 2 SQ10's behind the bench seat directly behind the driver and passenger in .3cf sealed boxes and let them loose with the 250w sub channel off a Jensen KA5.
Didn't work out too well for me because those locations have the subs firing directly into cardboard + plastic + closed cell foam + cloth (I have the inflatable lumbar support option). So not much sound is getting through there. In fact it's buzzing like hell and sounds like ****.
So my next step for fitting subs behind the seat could go a number of ways:
I could try removing the cardboard and applying deadener to both sides, maybe some deadener to the back side of the lumbar support bag, and see if that offers any improvement, but I'm afraid I might be fighting a losing battle firing the subs into a brick wall from less about 1" away. In this scenario each SQ10 gets 125w.
I could put one of the SQ10's in the garage and slide the other over to the spot between the driver and passenger. This would lighten the load on the amp, but the single SQ10 would still only get 125w.
I could build a downfiring box for the EU-700's so the subs would have additional room to breathe via the space under the seat. Again the EU-700's would be getting 125w each in a ported enclosure here. I think the EU-700's at 125w ported are a better match to the amp than the SQ10 at 125w sealed. The SQ10 is a little underpowered at only 125w.
I empty the area behind the seat and just run what I like in the doors for subs.
Depending on what happened behind the seat, I would then decide how to proceed with the doors. I've got enough depth to mount either the SQ10's or the EU700's high up in the front of the doors in the stock mounting locations just under those little triangular windows. I could even get the EU-700's and the SQ10's in the doors if that was an option, but I'm pretty sure you can't just shove 2 different drivers into the same enclosure when they share a crossover point in the bass realm.
If I end up running midbass and subs, I'll use the 125wpc sub channel for the subs and bridge the 4 channels from the KA5 to 250wpc for the door speakers. In this scenario I'll need to buy another 4 channel amp for the DLS components.
Another option would be to forget about midbass drivers and just run either the EU700's or the SQ10's as subs in the doors (they would share power off the sub channel and not be stereo) and nothing behind the back seat. In this scenario the subs would be getting 125wpc from the sub channel, leaving the 50w x 4 available for the DLS component set. In this scenario I wouldn't need to worry about buying and fitting another amp behind the seat. Now, space wouldn't be a problem if I chose to go with the single SQ10 behind the seat in the middle, but it would get pretty crowded back there if I try to go with 2 subs and add another amp. Doable, but it will require mounting the amps on the back wall, one on top of the other. This would require me to put a few screws through the back wall, visible from the outside to a potential thief who knows what to look for.
If I end up going with midbass and subs, I figure I'll probably bandpass the midbass at something like 80 to 150 or 200hz, and run the sub from 80hz on down. If I end up doing just the subs in the door I'll probably cross over at 125hz, and doing just the sub(s) behind the seat I'll probably try to cross over at 80-100hz.
I'm hoping to get away with just using the EQ on the HU and sub section of the amp, but if it really needed some more EQ'ing I could cough up $50 for a 1/2 din EQ for the subs if I thought it would help. I've also got an Audiocontrol DQS and DQT in the closet if I need to bring out the big guns, but I'm hoping a good install will eliminate the need for any additional EQ's. Less is more there.
I'm going all active with time alignment off a Clarion dxz785usb. The time alignment for the midbass in the doors and the sub(s) behind the seat will have to be the same for my setup. I'll have to rely on phase control for any further adjustment between the two as I'll be depending on the amp's crossovers to split the signal from the midbass to the sub.
I'm not usually one for Q-forms, but I found some for $30 and figured I'd give them a try. Hopefully I'll be able to make them sound alright with a little extra deadening and careful work on the space behind the kicks. If not, I may have to try out building some custom kicks or have some made.
So this is what I have to work with.
What's the way to go here? This is only my second or third time around with car stereos, so I could use some knowledgable advice. Thanks. Zac.
