Good active crossover?

Sarthos
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I'm thinking of going to an active setup, to separate my mids and tweets, not just for my subs. I might run active in just the front or just the rear or in both. To run just the front I'll need 120 for a new amp plus the cost of the crossover, like 130 for a new rear amp or I might run tweeters four speakers off two channels on my four channel amp and four tweeters off the same amp.

Firstly, will going active generally make a difference? By getting an active crossover does it mean cleaner power from the amplifier? Also, should the crossover point generally be able to reach as high as the passive crossovers?

I'm running Planet Audio BB65PRO comps in the front, with 24 dB/octave crossovers at 4500 Hz, I've got 2 pairs of Alpine Type R Comps in the rear, and 1 pair of Planet Audio BB625C speakers in the rear with 18 dB/octave crossovers at 4500 Hz. Any idea what kinda crossover to get? I was thinking one or more Audiocontrol 6xs crossovers, but don't know anything about it, is it a good crossover to use or any other recommendations?

 
You have at least four pairs of speakers, who knows what else, you don't really understand the nature of an active system, and that's not even the difficult part of the whole endevour. Do yourself a favor and forget the idea until you learn more about audio.
 
An active setup can be done with any number of speakers, and tuning/installation/positioning is gonna be more important than the number anyway.

 
An active setup can be done with any number of speakers, and tuning/installation/positioning is gonna be more important than the number anyway.
Wait, you're instructing me as to the constraints of an active config? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
OP, it seems that you read the active thread a bit too fast and are stating the obvious acting like your teaching US.there are a few thing u still dont understand with going active and should study up a good bit more

 
An active setup can be done with any number of speakers, and tuning/installation/positioning is gonna be more important than the number anyway.


What?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
I'm only stating that I'm not a complete idiot who has no idea what he's doing and as a result shouldn't mess with anything. Going active just means setting the crossover slopes yourself so you can get the right speakers to play the right frequencies, and it also gives you the power to use separate time alignment on the speakers and tweeters if they're in different locations. I thought with all the times I've heard about it on here it might be something worth messing with, but apparently I'm just retarded so maybe I shouldn't.

 
I sorta figured an active crossover might be good since I listen to some music which is rather...old (some of it is yodeling from 1920s and 1930s) so it'd be nice if I could adjust the speakers to match the higher pitches of the music.

 
I sorta figured an active crossover might be good since I listen to some music which is rather...old (some of it is yodeling from 1920s and 1930s) so it'd be nice if I could adjust the speakers to match the higher pitches of the music.
you should've figured that an EQ would benefit you more w/ that.

 
I figured that also tuning the speakers to get different notes would help. If I turn up the bass boost knob to like +18 dB or +24 dB or whatever it is on my amp, my subs don't even visibly move. I figured it would be best to give up on the lower frequencies and change the speakers to play the higher frequencies. Then vice versa on other music.

 
20hz-20khz are the frequencies you want to focus on.

crossover / crossover point

slope

overlap

underlap

santa's lap

EQ

Frequencies

search

subbass / midbass / midrange / highs

20hz - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - -- - 20khz

 
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Sarthos

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