Going Brazilian

Was more than $2k when they first came out. Now they're clearing them out because there are new models of amps
They aren't clearing this amplifier out because nothing is currently in the works to replace it.

Schematic design for the HD design is limited to replace only up to the T14.2K.

The HD30K-SPL amp is a bass only amplifier so it will also not replace the T20.2K.

There is no closeout sales going on with the T20.2K either and advertising below the MAP of $2,128 is strictly prohibited.

Taramp's will take corrective action against those violating this policy.

3 Distributors of 7 this year are already gone as of 2015 and any dealers below them will either lose their rights to sell or they will have to move to another distributor.

 
They aren't clearing this amplifier out because nothing is currently in the works to replace it.
Schematic design for the HD design is limited to replace only up to the T14.2K.

The HD30K-SPL amp is a bass only amplifier so it will also not replace the T20.2K.

There is no closeout sales going on with the T20.2K either and advertising below the MAP of $2,128 is strictly prohibited.

Taramp's will take corrective action against those violating this policy.

3 Distributors of 7 this year are already gone as of 2015 and any dealers below them will either lose their rights to sell or they will have to move to another distributor.
Ok, I stand corrected.

Either way, they're supposed to be over $2k

 
ive had the hd3000 in for not even 24hours yet, but i messed around with it last night and set the gain so id clamp about 1kw rms max on music, rose to like 2.5 ohms. still too much for my little kicker cvt's... lol the night and day difference between an amp with real power and overhead and my old powerbass 1kw is ridiculous. play one song and my subs are stinking. ill give it 48 hours before i pop them

 
ive had the hd3000 in for not even 24hours yet, but i messed around with it last night and set the gain so id clamp about 1kw rms max on music, rose to like 2.5 ohms. still too much for my little kicker cvt's... lol the night and day difference between an amp with real power and overhead and my old powerbass 1kw is ridiculous. play one song and my subs are stinking. ill give it 48 hours before i pop them
Then you can run some real subs

 
only gripe is the measly 4 gauge inputs, had to cut off quite a bit of the car audio ofc i used and the wire does get pretty warm. i have shca 0 to 4 gauge inputs but they're too big for the 4 gauge input so that doesn't help any lol

also if the max musical consumption of this is 170 amps where the hell do i get a 170 amp mini anl fuse? I have it on a 150 now but when i turn the gain up in the future i have no doubt itll blow

 
only gripe is the measly 4 gauge inputs, had to cut off quite a bit of the car audio ofc i used and the wire does get pretty warm. i have shca 0 to 4 gauge inputs but they're too big for the 4 gauge input so that doesn't help any lol
also if the max musical consumption of this is 170 amps where the hell do i get a 170 amp mini anl fuse? I have it on a 150 now but when i turn the gain up in the future i have no doubt itll blow
Those don't fit??? Like the little round piece at the end (front) of the reducer or the overall length of the reducer? I have 4/0 to 1/0 reducers... Can you post any pictures??

 
Those don't fit??? Like the little round piece at the end (front) of the reducer or the overall length of the reducer? I have 4/0 to 1/0 reducers... Can you post any pictures??
it's very very close to fitting but the diameter appears to be just a tiny bit too large, im considering shaving off the piece of metal at the tip of the 4 gauge input to see if it'll fit. problem is my fuse block only puts out 4 gauge so i might need to get another 4 gauge reducer for the fuse block or im considering running a seperate run for the taramps by itself because i have over 350amps worth of amplifiers on one 1/0 ofc run lol

 
it's very very close to fitting but the diameter appears to be just a tiny bit too large, im considering shaving off the piece of metal at the tip of the 4 gauge input to see if it'll fit. problem is my fuse block only puts out 4 gauge so i might need to get another 4 gauge reducer for the fuse block or im considering running a seperate run for the taramps by itself because i have over 350amps worth of amplifiers on one 1/0 ofc run lol
Yea I think grinding the front round piece will work. And i'd say get a lone run with a 1/0 fuse for that amp. I just looked at the hd4000 that I want and the inputs are alot bigger so they will work thank Jesus

 
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MakkMar10

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