I don't fully understand your question. There is much more involved to going active than just getting all the speakers powered by their own amplifier.
- Thread Starter
- #4
If you mean the processing I know that side of it. bridging would be easiest for me so I guess the question is would going active be that much better? Ill probaly still amp the rears I cant really tell that they are there.
Slaugh
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Moron
i heard from many people who ran their comps bridged against non-bridged and, according to them, sound quality was day/night difference, with all the bells & whistles to the non-bridged setup
Since, as you mentioned, bridging it would be easier for you.....I would go ahead and attempt that first and see what you think, especially if you don't already have an active xover.
I think the goal whether it be passive or active is to get max power into all speakers. In most cases that requires more power by means of more amps. If so, then why not try an active setup to see if that will offer more flexibility? Might be able to extract better sound by playing with xover points, slopes, level, phase, etc....You have to be willing and capable of "Putting in Work" to see a major difference.
Remember, all cars, trucks, and SUVs are different. That prepackaged crossover may work in some vehicles but not sound as good in others as the mounting locations and acoustics vary.
Remember, all cars, trucks, and SUVs are different. That prepackaged crossover may work in some vehicles but not sound as good in others as the mounting locations and acoustics vary.
- Thread Starter
- #8
I think I will bridge it first then go active. Definately more power the better. As far as active crossovers Im going to use my alpine 9833 for that. It has a built in active crossover. I will definately have to put in work to get it to sound good
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