Fu 750's just went up $20..

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Now you will see what a real sub can do

willing to bet you he messed up on his box design...

 

[kr15 5,000+ posts]

Well...hes running a prefab. I would say, it cant be worse...but it is grandpa

 

[Boominburban 10+ year member]

The 750's are really decent subs. The 1250's are pretty good too. But the former in the 1250's is on the thin side, tight gap. If you try and put more than 2k clamped rms power through them you will probably have issues. The V2 1250's are supposed to have this issue addressed. I compete with right at 1050 rms clamped power on each one, (MECA M4) and demo right at 2k on each sub. And they are near their limit there.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

The 750's are really decent subs. The 1250's are pretty good too. But the former in the 1250's is on the thin side, tight gap. If you try and put more than 2k clamped rms power through them you will probably have issues. The V2 1250's are supposed to have this issue addressed. I compete with right at 1050 rms clamped power on each one, (MECA M4) and demo right at 2k on each sub. And they are near their limit there.

oh no he won't clamp 2k unless he gets 2nd amp and 2nd sub, i was just saying maybe find a deal on nice 2k amp or something or even skar 2k tested at 2200 probably be like 1600 at best to sub..

 

[evilmonstertruk Premium Member]

How do you think output would compare with a sundown 12v3?

Sent from my John Kuthe can eat a **** and **** off back to nambla with the rest of the kid touching perverts

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

willing to bet you he messed up on his box design...

check it.. 34" x16d x14.5h 2.75"w x13h port 29.5" long sub has .19 sub disp corners and bracing around .12 cf rear port board .095 cf should come real close to 2.29 cf ad give or take.. .03.. should tune to 35hz.. as far as corners and port corner i got design from ssa site..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

check it.. 34" x16d x14.5h 2.75"w x13h port 29.5" long sub has .19 sub disp corners and bracing around .12 cf rear port board .095 cf should come real close to 2.29 cf ad give or take.. .03.. should tune to 35hz.. as far as corners and port corner i got design from ssa site..

thats not tuned to 35hz its tuned lower and you have more airspace then you think.

Might wanna shrink your port in all honesty to 2.5 width and with the airspace saved, you should double baffle the box, the sub is over 30lbs dude. With your port, You are building it like you have a 3k amp to power it which will equal to almost 1.5k after rise while you just have a tiny little p1000.1 which will make 500-600 wired to 1 ohm at best after rise at best if you clamp it.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

It's always a good idea to double baffle when the sub is over 15lbs. If not your shit will flex like Rosie O'donnell chasing after a double chocolate cake.

 

[MrFoca]

Franks a nice guy to deal with.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

I'm still salty about ordering all 8 of my 12s separately to get 8 shirts and only got one that was the wrong size cause he was out of stock... lol

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

It's always a good idea to double baffle when the sub is over 15lbs. If not your shit will flex like Rosie O'donnell chasing after a double chocolate cake.

it is double baffle i assumed everyone would assume that..

 

---------- Post added at 07:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:13 PM ----------

 

thats not tuned to 35hz its tuned lower and you have more airspace then you think.

Might wanna shrink your port in all honesty to 2.5 width and with the airspace saved, you should double baffle the box, the sub is over 30lbs dude. With your port, You are building it like you have a 3k amp to power it which will equal to almost 1.5k after rise while you just have a tiny little p1000.1 which will make 500-600 wired to 1 ohm at best after rise at best if you clamp it.

sorry double baffle

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

thats not tuned to 35hz its tuned lower and you have more airspace then you think.

Might wanna shrink your port in all honesty to 2.5 width and with the airspace saved, you should double baffle the box, the sub is over 30lbs dude. With your port, You are building it like you have a 3k amp to power it which will equal to almost 1.5k after rise while you just have a tiny little p1000.1 which will make 500-600 wired to 1 ohm at best after rise at best if you clamp it.

model it.. with the vas and bl input in wins not just the q's and it shows port air at 65 fps with 485 watts (which i think is what i have at 2 ohms (cause amp tested at 610rms at 4 ohm so should be just below that after rise right?)

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

model it.. with the vas and bl input in wins not just the q's and it shows port air at 65 fps with 485 watts (which i think is what i have at 2 ohms (cause amp tested at 610rms at 4 ohm so should be just below that after rise right?)

why the fk are you buying 4 ohms wiring to 2 ohms?

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

why the fk are you buying 4 ohms wiring to 2 ohms?

cause idk when i can get big 3 my cars a pain.. if i can get batt terminals that'll reach factory wires., i'll do it some time but i also have tiny old 4ga..

 

[bigblank69 10+ year member]

Just run it without the big 3 then.... Your voltage will be lower, but the amp will be fine. **** it I swear I'm about to sound like a f'n old man but 20 years ago we ran 1200W amps all day on 4 gauge and NOBODY did a big 3. We didn't know how to maximize then like we do know, but the amps were fine and WORKED pretty much as they should.