im suprised mike hasnt said anything on this thread yet...
Frustrated!!!!
- Thread starter f150_on_32s
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Seriously, if you put those in a ported box they will sound completely different, they will kick all out *** actually.
In this sealed box graph the red curve represents you're response curve, notice how it drops dramatically from 100hz to a total of -15db at 20hz, even with the average +12db cabin gain they will still play below the 0db baseline and basically get drowned out by the mids and tweets, good for an RTA readout but crap for listening.
In this ported box graph you see a completely different beast, the sub plays 100hz to 26hz within a 3DB variation(green line) with a plus 1DB at 26HZ. This enclosure starts where the sealed box maxes out, factor in a 12DB cabin gain and you have a nice slope starting at 26HZ an sloping down to 100HZ, basically the exact opposite of the sealed graph.
Green line
1.25 cu ft net
Tuned to 26 Hz
20 sq. in. of Vent Area
This sub is worth the effort of getting a new box, seriously they will kick ***.
In this sealed box graph the red curve represents you're response curve, notice how it drops dramatically from 100hz to a total of -15db at 20hz, even with the average +12db cabin gain they will still play below the 0db baseline and basically get drowned out by the mids and tweets, good for an RTA readout but crap for listening.
In this ported box graph you see a completely different beast, the sub plays 100hz to 26hz within a 3DB variation(green line) with a plus 1DB at 26HZ. This enclosure starts where the sealed box maxes out, factor in a 12DB cabin gain and you have a nice slope starting at 26HZ an sloping down to 100HZ, basically the exact opposite of the sealed graph.
Green line
1.25 cu ft net
Tuned to 26 Hz
20 sq. in. of Vent Area
This sub is worth the effort of getting a new box, seriously they will kick ***.
destruction
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
well, i got a set of kicker comp vr's and wired them the EXACT same way and they are pretty dang loud. It must have been the subs. There is no other option. I stuffed the box with polyfill to try and bump up my airspace to get the kicker minimum of .85 and it looks like i have just enuf. They sound great IMO and **** the rl-i's in everything except for maybe low volume sq.
Like i said in my for sale thread. 200 for them if you meet me somewhere in cali, 150 if you come to carlsbad and pick them up.
Like i said in my for sale thread. 200 for them if you meet me somewhere in cali, 150 if you come to carlsbad and pick them up.
destruction
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
SoundSplinter
10+ year member
Senior VIP Member
Hey destruction - sorry to hear about your negative experience with the RL-i's.. major bummer! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
I believe you mentioned that these drivers are bottoming out and/or distorting when being fed with no more than 320 watts? Provided that your amp gain and wiring is correct, this should certainly not be happening. I see that you did end up wiring a single driver up to check the sound, might I ask if you tried doing this with both drivers individually? I would request that you do this in order to determine if one sub is behaving differently than the other, as if this were the case then you most definitely have received a defective driver and I will replace it under warranty no problem. Even if you're not going to keep these, I'd ask you to test each one individually so that you don't end up selling a defective unit to someone else.
In all honesty the RL-i series drivers are not designed to be SPL woofers and if you are looking for loudness over sound quality, then there are certainly other candidates that will better suit your needs. Nonetheless, I find it strange that your experience with Comp VR's was louder than the RL-i's, as I have a friend who replaced his two 10" CVR's with two 10" RL-i's (dropped in the same box/same amp) and he hasn't looked back once, stating that the RL-i's are easily quite a bit louder and much better sounding across the entire frequency response he is using. I can't help but wonder if there is some odd variable that is resulting in this undesireable action.
As others have suggested, there are indeed numerous factors that could be causing this phenomena, and though it seems you have done a lot to try to reach your desired level of performance, perhaps it is in fact the design and/or placement of your enclosure that is resulting in the poor performance you're experiencing. Then again, perhaps you were simply expecting more than these drivers can offer.
Again, I'm terribly sorry that your RL-i's aren't working out and if you are interested in exchanging them for an RL-p or two, I would be willing to credit the full value of your original purchase towards an exchange for one of our larger drivers (I will also cover your return shipping on the RL-i10's). Just a thought, though I understand that space and amp constraints may restrict this option, as well as the hard times you've had with your RL-i's. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
Let me know if there is anything else I can do
I believe you mentioned that these drivers are bottoming out and/or distorting when being fed with no more than 320 watts? Provided that your amp gain and wiring is correct, this should certainly not be happening. I see that you did end up wiring a single driver up to check the sound, might I ask if you tried doing this with both drivers individually? I would request that you do this in order to determine if one sub is behaving differently than the other, as if this were the case then you most definitely have received a defective driver and I will replace it under warranty no problem. Even if you're not going to keep these, I'd ask you to test each one individually so that you don't end up selling a defective unit to someone else.
In all honesty the RL-i series drivers are not designed to be SPL woofers and if you are looking for loudness over sound quality, then there are certainly other candidates that will better suit your needs. Nonetheless, I find it strange that your experience with Comp VR's was louder than the RL-i's, as I have a friend who replaced his two 10" CVR's with two 10" RL-i's (dropped in the same box/same amp) and he hasn't looked back once, stating that the RL-i's are easily quite a bit louder and much better sounding across the entire frequency response he is using. I can't help but wonder if there is some odd variable that is resulting in this undesireable action.
As others have suggested, there are indeed numerous factors that could be causing this phenomena, and though it seems you have done a lot to try to reach your desired level of performance, perhaps it is in fact the design and/or placement of your enclosure that is resulting in the poor performance you're experiencing. Then again, perhaps you were simply expecting more than these drivers can offer.
Again, I'm terribly sorry that your RL-i's aren't working out and if you are interested in exchanging them for an RL-p or two, I would be willing to credit the full value of your original purchase towards an exchange for one of our larger drivers (I will also cover your return shipping on the RL-i10's). Just a thought, though I understand that space and amp constraints may restrict this option, as well as the hard times you've had with your RL-i's. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
Let me know if there is anything else I can do
Hey destruction - sorry to hear about your negative experience with the RL-i's.. major bummer! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
I believe you mentioned that these drivers are bottoming out and/or distorting when being fed with no more than 320 watts? Provided that your amp gain and wiring is correct, this should certainly not be happening. I see that you did end up wiring a single driver up to check the sound, might I ask if you tried doing this with both drivers individually? I would request that you do this in order to determine if one sub is behaving differently than the other, as if this were the case then you most definitely have received a defective driver and I will replace it under warranty no problem. Even if you're not going to keep these, I'd ask you to test each one individually so that you don't end up selling a defective unit to someone else.
In all honesty the RL-i series drivers are not designed to be SPL woofers and if you are looking for loudness over sound quality, then there are certainly other candidates that will better suit your needs. Nonetheless, I find it strange that your experience with Comp VR's was louder than the RL-i's, as I have a friend who replaced his two 10" CVR's with two 10" RL-i's (dropped in the same box/same amp) and he hasn't looked back once, stating that the RL-i's are easily quite a bit louder and much better sounding across the entire frequency response he is using. I can't help but wonder if there is some odd variable that is resulting in this undesireable action.
As others have suggested, there are indeed numerous factors that could be causing this phenomena, and though it seems you have done a lot to try to reach your desired level of performance, perhaps it is in fact the design and/or placement of your enclosure that is resulting in the poor performance you're experiencing. Then again, perhaps you were simply expecting more than these drivers can offer.
Again, I'm terribly sorry that your RL-i's aren't working out and if you are interested in exchanging them for an RL-p or two, I would be willing to credit the full value of your original purchase towards an exchange for one of our larger drivers (I will also cover your return shipping on the RL-i10's). Just a thought, though I understand that space and amp constraints may restrict this option, as well as the hard times you've had with your RL-i's. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
Let me know if there is anything else I can do
I dont care if you had a metal bat, you can beat that level of service //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif
Mike you're the man!
mike, way to step up...
anyway..my rl-i 8 sounded good and gets loud in both ported and sealed, as does my rl-p12.
after reading ur thread a bit, why the bass boost? with 3/4 gain and then the boost added, ur certainly got to be feeding a clipped signal. and feeding a cvr a clipped signal isn't going to matter as they sound like *** regardless. also, does the rl-i hit the grill any at all? it seems as though it did?
but anyway...give mike's suggestion a go.....
wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/peace.gif.2db28b618ed8d1964ebbe2f5021d2c39.gif
anyway..my rl-i 8 sounded good and gets loud in both ported and sealed, as does my rl-p12.
after reading ur thread a bit, why the bass boost? with 3/4 gain and then the boost added, ur certainly got to be feeding a clipped signal. and feeding a cvr a clipped signal isn't going to matter as they sound like *** regardless. also, does the rl-i hit the grill any at all? it seems as though it did?
but anyway...give mike's suggestion a go.....
wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/peace.gif.2db28b618ed8d1964ebbe2f5021d2c39.gif
Wow, now thats service. Wow. Nice to see another honest businessman, and not just honest. I mean paying the shipping back even. Thats just beyond neccesary. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/patriotic.gif.b47a6e0394a3738334c387bdf79409f4.gifIn all honesty the RL-i series drivers are not designed to be SPL woofers and if you are looking for loudness over sound quality, then there are certainly other candidates that will better suit your needs.
Again, I'm terribly sorry that your RL-i's aren't working out and if you are interested in exchanging them for an RL-p or two, I would be willing to credit the full value of your original purchase towards an exchange for one of our larger drivers (I will also cover your return shipping on the RL-i10's). Just a thought, though I understand that space and amp constraints may restrict this option, as well as the hard times you've had with your RL-i's. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
Let me know if there is anything else I can do
destruction
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
This all started with me trying to get something better than the fosgates i had. I got the ss's but they just didn't sound right in the box i had. I contacted Mr. Marv and he built me a killer box. I dropped the ss's in there and it was just like ?????? just extremely weak. Like something you would expect from a very cheap speaker. It was deep at very low volumes but it could never get loud. I am talkingt about not even 10" zooka tube loud. My first 10w0 with a jenson 300 on it is about as close of a comparison as i can make. So i ripped apart my entire setup trying one thing after another. tried the subs individually, wired differently, different amp, everything i could think of. I just don't know what else to do
They weren't hitting the grill. Thats the reason i got those. to make sure no matter what sub i got, i could push my seat against them and be fine.
They weren't hitting the grill. Thats the reason i got those. to make sure no matter what sub i got, i could push my seat against them and be fine.
destruction
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
well i went out there and tried one last time to get them to sound right and i just couldn't.
Even though i am really pissed about the waste of time and especially money, i can't expect mike to just take back used subs unless they are proven faulty. Its my fault as the purchaser for not reading up on them and knowing that they weren't meant for a sealed box. I may be able to meet mike and get them tested but i'm not going to return them for an error on my part. I am gonna put one in 1 cube ported box with 200rms and see how it does. I'll post my findings
Even though i am really pissed about the waste of time and especially money, i can't expect mike to just take back used subs unless they are proven faulty. Its my fault as the purchaser for not reading up on them and knowing that they weren't meant for a sealed box. I may be able to meet mike and get them tested but i'm not going to return them for an error on my part. I am gonna put one in 1 cube ported box with 200rms and see how it does. I'll post my findings
This seems to explain the problem.Seriously, if you put those in a ported box they will sound completely different, they will kick all out *** actually.In this sealed box graph the red curve represents you're response curve, notice how it drops dramatically from 100hz to a total of -15db at 20hz, even with the average +12db cabin gain they will still play below the 0db baseline and basically get drowned out by the mids and tweets, good for an RTA readout but crap for listening.
In this ported box graph you see a completely different beast, the sub plays 100hz to 26hz within a 3DB variation(green line) with a plus 1DB at 26HZ. This enclosure starts where the sealed box maxes out, factor in a 12DB cabin gain and you have a nice slope starting at 26HZ an sloping down to 100HZ, basically the exact opposite of the sealed graph.
Green line
1.25 cu ft net
Tuned to 26 Hz
20 sq. in. of Vent Area
This sub is worth the effort of getting a new box, seriously they will kick ***.
destruction
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
yep, thats what i am going with.
destruction...well, i wish u better luck in the ported box. i honestly don't know why u've had such a bad experience, unless like mike mentioned, higher then expected expectations. and in all honesty, the rl-i's are supposed to be a small sealed box driver. but i like my rl-i8 in ported better.
but if that fails, i'd take mike up on his offer, get a rl-p12 and port that sucker..or even sealed (the rl-p 12 loves 1.25ft^3 sealed) and it'll love the power u have for the pair of rl-i(cvr's).
wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:
but if that fails, i'd take mike up on his offer, get a rl-p12 and port that sucker..or even sealed (the rl-p 12 loves 1.25ft^3 sealed) and it'll love the power u have for the pair of rl-i(cvr's).
wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:
destruction
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
Like i said, i just wanted something with a lil more wang than the fosgates. I watch ALOT of movies in the truck so i wanted something with sq as well. These seemed like they were everything i needed. They really do have a good tone but its like they are free-air. as soon as some power gets to them they fall apart. i am just gonna keep the remote bass DOWN when i watch movies and hopefully i can make the cvr's work. I have already spent way more than i wanted to. (going from fosgates to cvrs, essentially cost me $754) thats including the price of the custom box and SS's. I am just gonna sell these and deal with it.
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