Fosgate power amp gets extremely hot???

[Dub7sonoma Premium Member]

definitely in need of repair... thats a awesome lil 2ohm amp though!!!

Is it worth repairing? I had a couple blown fets in my powerbass xta5000d and the shop I used charged me $250. Plus I spent almost $100 shipping it there and back. That's the first and only time I have had an amp repaired so I don't know much about the costs.

Do you have any suggestions on who could repair it at a good price?

 

[basswiigee]

Is it worth repairing? I had a couple blown fets in my powerbass xta5000d and the shop I used charged me $250. Plus I spent almost $100 shipping it there and back. That's the first and only time I have had an amp repaired so I don't know much about the costs.
Do you have any suggestions on who could repair it at a good price?

its a power house 2 ohm amp about 1100w rms, i wouldn't invest too much but i've seen 'em go for 200 - 250 on ebay, not saying you'd get that here, but still bad azz lil 2 ohm amp!!!! i have no idea who could fix it, there was a thread in here somewhere where guys were naming all sorts of places though!!!! i'll try to find it...

 

[JISINSANE3]

I will say this, Any amp over 300watt rms, It would be very beneficial to add a simple 12 volt computer fan to it. Preferable high CFM. And this goes for all amps. I was a PC gaming builder before and the cooler you run them the more efficient everything is. You can think its ghetto all you want but bottom line is Your amp will thank you. Fan your amps. Why let them get hot when a fan added will keep them 50 degrees cooler than the thermal. With amps today if there is a problem all most all of them have 3-4 modes of protection to keep them from frying. SMD makes the perfect amp fan. However I would adjust his gauage to kick in around 115 degrees

 

[Milk Mayne 10+ year member]

I will say this, Any amp over 300watt rms, It would be very beneficial to add a simple 12 volt computer fan to it.

Really? Why would you even say ANY amp? There's plenty of highly efficient, high current amplifiers that barely even get warm. Class design also plays a significant role in potential dissipated heat. I just don't understand making such a blanket statement with an arbitrary number like that. Not to mention designs that incorporate internal cooling fans.

I'm not saying there wouldn't be some (however insignificant) benefit to it, but would seem like a waste in many instances.

To the OP, I had that same amp back in the day and it always seemed like you could cook on it when wired at two ohms after a little bit of playing time. I don't know about the issue when you don't have a load connected, makes me think something is definitely wrong.

 

[JISINSANE3]

Maybe not every amp that already has internal cooling fans built into it. And can keep its own, However any amp that runs over 115 degrees needs cooled, When it gets to the point its uncomfortable to touch that's a problem. MOSFETS are just like computer CPU's. The cooler you run them the more efficient and better they will run. DUMB down my statement all you want. But if my AMP does not have internal cooling and just its own heatsink case, Im running cooling. Most people like to get the most out of there amp, Running them at the lowest Ω possible. And besides again, what would it hurt not to run your AMP cooler. Try it see the difference longer life/ better response. Every electronic device runs better cooler. Point in case, I have a garbage ela500.1 bazooka, Overheats even at 4 ohms, I am running it now at 2 and with fans runs all day without a single hiccup. Some amp builder companys are stupid as hell.

 

[Spooney 10+ year member]

Is it worth repairing? I had a couple blown fets in my powerbass xta5000d and the shop I used charged me $250. Plus I spent almost $100 shipping it there and back. That's the first and only time I have had an amp repaired so I don't know much about the costs.
Do you have any suggestions on who could repair it at a good price?

I myself would get it repaired but I am partial to oldschool amps like this. It definitely shouldn't be blazing hot with no load attached. A little warm yes because it is class ab but not real hot at all unloaded. I would get it looked at. Might not be an expensive fix seeing as it still plays. If I had the extra time I would inspect it for ya.