Fish eye in clear?

bjfish11
5,000+ posts

FisherCustoms.com
What could be causing our clear to fish eye, but not our basecoat? Using different guns. Clear gun is almost brand new, used it to clear one other box, and it went on fine. Throw all ideas out there, cause we cant figure it out. Tomorrow im gonna pick up another filter and put one in our booth, see if that helps.

 
fish eye = oil, grease, or dirty on the surface your painting. my dad owns a body shop. what did you use to clean the surface b4 you painted?

 
we wipe it down with surface prep. But the thing is, we paint, let set for 15 mins or so, then spray the clear. And it doenst do it on the basecoat, just the clear. Thats what baffles us.

 
when i spray i always let the bascoat dry, then i wet sand it, use a tack cloth on it and then i spray it with clear, always werkz for me, may not be the best method, but i am always happy with the results

 
oh yes, i get to use my dad shop when i want. thats how i painted my car show room quality for $250 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif i love the booth. downdraft FTW.

Step one: Use an air blower to blow off any dust (wipe with clean rag at the same time)

Step Two: Put item in booth or clean area and wire off with dust rag and wax and grease remover.

Step Three: Spray

 
also check the air lines...you could take the gun apart and clean it thoroughly with thinner and wipe it down with your prep all after that...usually fish eyes are in the line or the air

 
x2. take the paint gun apart and set it in a bucket of thinner for like 15 mins then pull parts out, wipe down, and reassemble. make sure all connections are good as well.

also pressure in teh booth should keep all the particles in the air from flying around and pull them down thru the vents.

check the pressure of the booth.

and always wetsand between each layer of basecoat and before clearing. use tach cloth and grease/wax remover to clean the surface.

(learned all this in my auto repair class 3-4 years ago).

 
and always wetsand between each layer of basecoat and before clearing. use tach cloth and grease/wax remover to clean the surface.(learned all this in my auto repair class 3-4 years ago).
you dont need to wetsand between any layers unless you have to (ie. serious orange peel) i have never had any problems with laying down base coats, and if there ever is any orange peel, by the time it dries it levels itself out perfectly, now clear coat on the other hand i sometimes have a hard time spraying, put it on too light and you'll have some real bad orange peel, the clear i use needs to be applied in wet coats but just a touch too wet and you get some huge runs, im learner better on applying it and so far have had pretty good results with it but i still find it hard to lay down sometimes.

so what yopu should do is wipe the primed surface with a wax and grease remover, then tack cloth it, lay down 2-3 coats of base, flash 10-15 minutes and apply the clear right over top in about 2 wet coats, and as long as the booth is clean and your using the proper mixing instructions and reducing it properly you shouldn't have any problems, then a afterwards you can cut and buff the clear depending on how bad it is

 
bought 2 extra inline filters/water seperators today, added them and also tried a different gun. Still was fish eyeing. Could our clear be bad? We have had it for awhile. Does that stuff just go bad, could something have gotten in it? Any ideas?

 
fisheyes arent caused by dirt, those are nibs. Fisheyes are typically caused by silicone. We have had instances in the shop where someone is spraying tire shine on the side of the shop and it gets sucked into the intake of our booth and gets on the car.

 
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bjfish11

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