First box (Build in Trunk)

[90accordman 5,000+ posts]

well im off to wire the subs into the car, i think i'll be going the ghetto route for now and running my wire out the port until i can get some quality terminals or cups to put on the new box.

I'll be on later on with a picture of the subx in place as well as later with the box painted or something.

 

[chinny 5,000+ posts]

nice

 

[lotas 10+ year member]

I would advise against terminal cups, they arent anything special, will cost you $5-10 bucks, they can cause air leaks, they just cause more trouble than they're worth. Just drill a hole in the back and run the wire through there.

 

[90accordman 5,000+ posts]

Well i got the subs in place and the sound is incredible better then my prefab box that i previously had. Only bad thing is that it sounds great but i have more resonance then i ever heard, my trunk flexes so hard i thought the lid was going to pop open.

 

[90accordman 5,000+ posts]

sorry about the pic size been trying to run back and forth, havent been editing anything as its less car time.

I'll be cleaning up the wireing and painting the box soon and will post pics of that, i jut have it wired through the port at the moment because i want to be able to listen to music on the way to work at least(only work on car on weekends).

 

[saywhat? 5,000+ posts]

how was it trying to keep your pieces straight at 90 derees? and really if u use gorilla glue, u dont need screws? ill be doing this when i go ported it looks. how did u get your pieces so ****ed evenly lined up and not swear like a sailer? seems like u would have to hold them in there place.

 

[amedeuce 10+ year member]

You dont need screws. Glue alone is fine if you clamp it. It is easier to glue, clamp and then nail with nail gun with compressor..

 

[90accordman 5,000+ posts]

how was it trying to keep your pieces straight at 90 derees? and really if u use gorilla glue, u dont need screws? ill be doing this when i go ported it looks. how did u get your pieces so ****ed evenly lined up and not swear like a sailer? seems like u would have to hold them in there place.

I dunno if you seen in one of the earlier pics i had a capenters square. I used this square alot through the whole build and used a nail gun to tack piece in place with the sqaure still in place to make sure each piece was sqaure before the glue cured.

The only thing i sweared about was trying to mount the subs with only 6 inches of space to try to get the screws in.

Holding them in place while the glue dried wasnt much of a problem as its really how here right now and the glue also started drying rather fast. It is my first box so i feel like i had alot of patience for it being my first time and i realize it probably doesnt look the best to some of you more experienced guys. I have glue that seeps out of some of the joints but thats the only visable problem you can see, which i plan on painting the box anyhow and sanding down the glue.

::edit:: I didnt do the whole box at one time either, i did a few pieces went out to shop, did a few more went out to eat, then did some more let 3ish hours pass then did the top last night and let it all sit til today and its hard as a rock now.

 

[90accordman 5,000+ posts]

I almost forgot to thank JMAC for the great box design, and I will be in contact again for a sealed box for 2 Pioneer 15s for the Fiance's Explorer. I can probably do it myself but im more of a hands on guy i rather not waste the time on calulations when i can get someone trustworthy to do it for me.

 

[90accordman 5,000+ posts]

The new box has caused me a new problem, as my rear speakers weren't exactly mounted right. So now when the bass hits the rear deck flexes hard and my rears short against the metal deck. I'm thinking of a fix where i basically make where the speakers contact the metal non metal. Example being runing rubber or plastic around the lip that it contacts so i can still have my mids.

 

[Acidburn 5,000+ posts]

The new box has caused me a new problem, as my rear speakers weren't exactly mounted right. So now when the bass hits the rear deck flexes hard and my rears short against the metal deck. I'm thinking of a fix where i basically make where the speakers contact the metal non metal. Example being runing rubber or plastic around the lip that it contacts so i can still have my mids.

or just take them out, that works too

but ya, you dont want them shorting out, it can cause problems for the deck as well

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

just get like 10ft of secondskin damplifier

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/products/specials.php

$25, will cover your rear dec. take out the speakers, cover the deck (and the speaker holes) cut an X wher ethe speakers mount, push the speakers through, fold the matt under and onto the metal underneath

screw the speakers in with some self tapping screws (or use the factory whatever if you can)

and no more problems //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[SPL140.2 5,000+ posts]

I would advise against terminal cups, they arent anything special, will cost you $5-10 bucks, they can cause air leaks, they just cause more trouble than they're worth. Just drill a hole in the back and run the wire through there.

By drilling a hole and running the wires threw that hole wont have air leaks??? I have never had any problems using terminal cups.

 

[Expy2000]

How much is Gorilla Glue..

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[SPL140.2 5,000+ posts]

$13.?? here but I love the titebondII //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif