bracing? hm.. we put inch and a quarter brads in the sides to hold the boards together while the liquid nails dries. we put about 4 in each line where the boards connect. when it dries we're going to drill holes for screws, put in some finishing trim screws, and i'll find something to water proof it with or w.e
is there anything that i can just spray it with out of like an airisol can or something instead of fiberglass resin?
cus im not real sure what that even is..
Bingo, found it. Get rid of the liquid nails immediately. Woodglue is the only thing you should be using for box construction. Anyone who tells you otherwise is an idiot. Polyurethane glues like gorrila blue do have their places, but the physical construction is NOT one of those places. Liquid nails works good for homemakers putting together picture frames, not on a speaker enclosures which are already weakened by cutting a massive hole in the middle of one of the panels.
Don't drill holes for screws, they are unnecessary. You use screws as you use the brad nails. Once the box is dry, they serve no purpose (assuming you used woodglue). Even in this case, there's no point to putting them in because if you're worried about the joint failing, some screws aren't going to do anything. Think about it like this. You need to glue some popsiclesticks together to make a log cabin. You use magic tape to hold it together while drying. Once it's dry, the tape is useless. You wouldn't add it at the end either because it no longer has a purpose.
What on earth are you taking your car through that you need to waterproof the box? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif You don't need to do that. What you should do is (as was said previously) coat the entire box with fiberglass resin, as particleboard is inherently weaker than MDF or plywood. It has small pockets of air between each of the particles, which are actually subjected to more pressure than what you feel in the cabin. The wood can literally explode (yes it can, I've seen it myself because I didn't believe it), although you shouldn't have to worry about that.
Here's your list for next time to help you get a bit better (even though it already looks fantastic):
1. 3/4" MDF
2. Titebond or Elmer's WOODglue (if it doesn't say wood in the NAME, it isn't woodglue)
3. 1.25" fasteners (you like nails, those are fine)
4. 4-6 36" clamps (allows the woodglue to form a mechanical bond (helotaxi //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif ) which is stronger than the wood you're actually gluing together)
5. Patience! You need to spend time on your first few to really get to know how things should go together. Make sure your port is completely square. Check and recheck that your panels are the same sizes. Make sure your design is completely accurate.
Beyond that, just have fun. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
-Dave