Finally installed my mechman, belt squeal

[Boomintempo 10+ year member]

Nope, first thing I looked for when taking out the old alt!

 

[Boomintempo 10+ year member]

double post

 

[Boomintempo 10+ year member]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif :emb: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif

Figured out the belt...

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif

 

[plugitin 5,000+ posts]

yay

 

[Boomintempo 10+ year member]

well, how to get it back on the alternator that is...fingers crossed for no more squeal...gonna be interesting though when the new belt comes in, trying to figure out how to get it on

 

[Boomintempo 10+ year member]

Well, I BEEFED it on this time and it's still squealing...constantly and LOUD. I sprayed it with water a bunch, then turned on the car again. It didn't squeal, until the water evaporated.

Guess I'll just tighten it more like the other people were saying.

ALSO, the alignment looks good, I can't really move it left or right at all with the way this thing is die casted. Pretty much just forward or back to make it more loose or tight.

--EDIT--

Well, after wasting my weekend basically getting my car to where I can't drive it...I'm saying screw it till the new belt comes in. I've tightened this one down as far as it'll go, where there isn't ANY give AT ALL on the belt (ok, maybe 1/8th of an inch) and it squeals still. What a fraking waste of time!

Thanks to everyone that has helped. If any of you feel like coming to Germany and maybe trying your hand at it, you'll have a free place to stay and all the german beer you want.

 

[99grandprixGT 5,000+ posts]

when you get the new belt on let us know if that was the problem....

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

mine was doing the same thing.. my tensioner was not tight enough.. take it to a mechanic.. get them to LOOK and see what they think

 

[tinmanchris217 10+ year member]

Consider the fact that an electric motor works like this:

Voltage --> motor speed

Current --> motor torque

An alternator is the inverse. To create more current from an alt, it requires more torque from the acc. belt. Torque available = belt tension * pulley radius.

So yes, more tension is needed to run a HO alt.

In your Haynes/Chilton manual, you should have a spec for belt tension. Get the tool to test this (might be able to rent from Autozone), for $20. Amazon has one for $17 from Gates. Linky

I'd also pick up a new belt in case you have glazed this one over or pop it. $15 is better than being stranded. Then crank down the belt tension to spec or slightly higher.

If it's too high, you'll see the edges of the belt curl up. This is just a guideline though.

 

[DumpinTreos 10+ year member]

Your not the only accord owner that had belt slipping with a mechman. My friend fritos has a 250a that he had a slipping problem with. Make sure to get a quality belt that can grip such as a dayco, gates, or gatorback belt

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?showtopic=49363&hl=

 

[Boomintempo 10+ year member]

Wow, all this is great to know. Hopefully the new belt will work then. It's an AC Delco, but will look for others too as a backup...maybe the gatorback.

It's crazy how tight the belt was, honestly there wasn't really anymore left to tighten. The alternator came with the pulley tightening nut thing...

Wow, I'm really tired and not making any sense!

Will post more when I get off of work.

Thanks again everyone

--Edit--

KyleBechtold - You got a PM

DumpinTreos - WOW...let me know how everything worked out for your friend. I was warned that the 250a alt had slipping issues...I wish the best for your friend. Man, it seems like I should've researched a bit before purchasing this car. Not that it was my intention from the beginning to get back into car audio...but it would've been great to know that this car sucks for a HO alt. It makes me sick to think of the money I spent on this alt!!! I PRAY the belt I ordered fixes the slipping problem.

 

[Boomintempo 10+ year member]

Here's some pictures since some people have asked...maybe it'll help you guys see what I'm talking about since I'm awesome at explaining stuff!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Please note, the belt is loose because I'm waiting on my AC Delco belt to come in...also waiting on a gator belt as well.

There are three alt pulleys, while the bottom farthest back one has another smaller pulley attached to it. That smaller pulley goes up, as you can see from the pics, to another small pulley. Not too sure what those two pulleys are for.

Also, not too sure how I'm going to get the alt belt completely off since the other pulleys belt is in the way...

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

get some more of that tensioner. Seems odd the way it is since if you screw it in it will put less tension on the belt it appears. is there another bolt under it or what?

 

[Boomintempo 10+ year member]

I'm not following about "getting more of that tensioner"...do you mean pics?

The tensioner does have two bolts. One that hand tightens through to an "ear" on the alternator...then there's that tensioner nut that really does tighten the alt belt, just not too sure if it's tightening enough. If it's not, that explains why my old belt is slipping...if it is, guess it was just because of an old belt that I was trying to use!

 

[DumpinTreos 10+ year member]

Well I ended up PMing fritos and he said his slip problem was fixed with a shorter belt. But another reason he was having slipping issues is that the driveshaft pulley broke.

Looking at the pics the "3 alt pulleys" should be alt,AC, and your crankshaft pulley. The smaller belt is more than likely power steering.

Ok now to tighten the belt I think you just loosen that locknut on the top of the alt and try to see if you can move the alt upwards to tighten the belt.

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2636013&highlight=alternator