FINALLY!!! I'm actually going to start this recone.

thats not true
ive grinded my baskets down past the paint without problem.

most people dont have access to aircraft pait remover.

Tape over the gap works as well.

That's exactly what I did. After I cut the spiders out and got everything out, I just taped over the gap and started grinding. I later found out that I should have taped around the bottom of the basket where it is spaced out for cooling, but nothing another cleaning with some tape didn't fix. Haha. Now the gap is nice and clean and i'll be dropping the recone in tomorrow morning.

 
And that Omega in the picture is the one that goes in the ranger with the pink shag box that's in the build logs. The only thing around here that's louder is a kid with 4 12w7's on 2 powerbass xa3000d's. Of course nobody around here has ever heard of Cascade Designs so they all think it's just something cheap until we crank it up and watch the kids jump out of the truck. Haha.

 
Woke up a little early this morning to get this think done. First I cleaned off the landings with some 91% alcohol, then laid a nice bead of glue down. Next I dropped in the shims then set the recone overtop of them. After it was in place I put a couple of leg weights (15 pounds total) on a roll of duct tape to keep the weight centered. Then I ran another bead of glue around the outside of the spiders where they come in contact with the basket (see pictures).

Once the bottom was situated I put allof my clamps on the top part of the basket to secure the surround down. Now I'm just going to wait another day before I set it in my truck and free air it a little to make sure there isn't any scraping noises.

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And that Omega in the picture is the one that goes in the ranger with the pink shag box that's in the build logs. The only thing around here that's louder is a kid with 4 12w7's on 2 powerbass xa3000d's. Of course nobody around here has ever heard of Cascade Designs so they all think it's just something cheap until we crank it up and watch the kids jump out of the truck. Haha.
it used to be that way at local shows with incriminator audio.

now they know whats up.

 
i used some clear hobby shop CA glue,. i think it was a little too thin, i really like the black stuff.
Here's the thing. I went into a hobby shop about a month ago and asked for CA glue and they handed me some clear stuff that looks just like super glue. I went ahead and bought it, and it is some badass stuff. I mean will stick anything to anything, and will bond skin instanty like it says on the outside of the bottle. But I went ahead and got some black CA glue from Nick, but they look and smell the exact same, so I probably woulda been good just doing the clear.

Since they seem to be about the same, would it be wise to use the clear on the dust cab so I don't have a nasty looking dust cap like I see a lot of recones have? I can lay down a nice bead with that black stuff, but would it be to my advantage to just use the clear?

 
Put some tape on the end of a popsicle stick and stick it to the center of the dustcap. that way you can run your bead of glue around the inside of the cap and easily center it on the cone. No mess.

 
You see that disk sitting in the middle of your recone? That is what we call CILD or Center Interlocking Dustcap. It was made so that you can lay a bead of glue where the ridges on the outside are and lay the dustcap right on top of it. Perfect bead every time as long as you don't put an extra bead on top of the cap.

 
I'M DONE!!! WOOHOO!!! Haha. Just went out and tested it free air in my truck and there's no mechanical noise or scraping or anything, so I went back inside and put the dust cap on. I love that center locking ring, it made lining it up very easy. Then laid a nice bead of glue around the outside of the dust cap to seal it all up.

I'm going to Stillwater for the weekend, but when I get back I'm taking my box out to reinforce it and make it stronger, then everything is going back in and getting broke in. Probaby a month of soft play time on this and it'll be ready to rip.

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BTW, how do you test the resistance on the coils? I've got a DMM and I had it set to Ohms (2k) and it just always goes to 0 showing that there is no resistance in the circuit.

 
Here's the thing. I went into a hobby shop about a month ago and asked for CA glue and they handed me some clear stuff that looks just like super glue. I went ahead and bought it, and it is some badass stuff. I mean will stick anything to anything, and will bond skin instanty like it says on the outside of the bottle. But I went ahead and got some black CA glue from Nick, but they look and smell the exact same, so I probably woulda been good just doing the clear.

Since they seem to be about the same, would it be wise to use the clear on the dust cab so I don't have a nasty looking dust cap like I see a lot of recones have? I can lay down a nice bead with that black stuff, but would it be to my advantage to just use the clear?

Probably IC-2000 clear formula. I just reconed a AQ 15 the other day with it and it works just fine when you use the accelerator with it. Im far to impatient to use that glue you're using without an accelerant. It only took 15 min to do the entire recone and already had it back in the vehicle in another 5 min and playing!

 
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