Fiberglass NOOB needs help
- Thread starter RipDaJacka
- Live activity
- Replies 5
- Views 615
o dam
5 cubes is a pretty big box, chances are youre only going to see the front face of it so why not make a box thats MDF except for the front? Theres no point in a full glass box in this application, plus you would be elimininating 75% of the work right there. You can have your MDF slot port on the bottom of the front if the box is going to butt up against the backseat and still make it easy.
The fleece- once the framework is done you basically stretch it over, keep it tight, staple and trim. Use alot of staples.
A gallon of resin comes with 2 tubes of hardener. Mix 1 quart resin with a half a tube (11mL) of hardener. personally I mix a half gallon at a time. Its good to have a pitcher with a spout because the resin gels pretty quick so its important to get it on quick, with a pitcher just pour that ish on and spread it with a chip brush instead of dibbing and dabbing. Its important to really soak the fleece, especially where it contacts the MDF, so go over the whole thing once, mix some more, and go over it again, and again. It takes more depending on how tight its stretched, but when the fleece has a nice 'glazed' look, youre pretty much there.
Let that harden a day, im not sure what tools you have but a sander is handy, dual action or even a mouse helps. When the resin cures theres a layer of surface wax and that has to come off (basically sand off the shine). Also sand off any loose fleece hairs/clumps if their there but if you hit it with enough resin there shouldnt be much. You want it as smooth as possible so theres less chance of air bubbles forming when you start glassing.
The glass work is kind of tricky, but put on some good gloves because this is the best way since you probably dont have fiberglass rollers. Take your time tearing up your mat, using bigger pieces on flatter spots. Plan out which piece will go where, dont overlap too much because that'll just make high spots and vice versa. Get a pan, mix some resin with a little less hardener, fill the pan. Dip the pieces of mat, let them soak and drip, and stick them on but try not to get air trapped underneath . Use your chip brush to spread out the excess resin and work out the air bubbles if any (with a good dabbing technique). Layers depends on the weight of mat used and shape of the box but youre going to want a good 1/4" at least.
I like to make my sub cutouts after the filler and primer, a rotozip works best. Make the cutouts too early and its likely youll make a mess on the rings. You also might want to reinforce the MDF/glass seams from the inside considering youre using HDC3's.
5 cubes is a pretty big box, chances are youre only going to see the front face of it so why not make a box thats MDF except for the front? Theres no point in a full glass box in this application, plus you would be elimininating 75% of the work right there. You can have your MDF slot port on the bottom of the front if the box is going to butt up against the backseat and still make it easy.
The fleece- once the framework is done you basically stretch it over, keep it tight, staple and trim. Use alot of staples.
A gallon of resin comes with 2 tubes of hardener. Mix 1 quart resin with a half a tube (11mL) of hardener. personally I mix a half gallon at a time. Its good to have a pitcher with a spout because the resin gels pretty quick so its important to get it on quick, with a pitcher just pour that ish on and spread it with a chip brush instead of dibbing and dabbing. Its important to really soak the fleece, especially where it contacts the MDF, so go over the whole thing once, mix some more, and go over it again, and again. It takes more depending on how tight its stretched, but when the fleece has a nice 'glazed' look, youre pretty much there.
Let that harden a day, im not sure what tools you have but a sander is handy, dual action or even a mouse helps. When the resin cures theres a layer of surface wax and that has to come off (basically sand off the shine). Also sand off any loose fleece hairs/clumps if their there but if you hit it with enough resin there shouldnt be much. You want it as smooth as possible so theres less chance of air bubbles forming when you start glassing.
The glass work is kind of tricky, but put on some good gloves because this is the best way since you probably dont have fiberglass rollers. Take your time tearing up your mat, using bigger pieces on flatter spots. Plan out which piece will go where, dont overlap too much because that'll just make high spots and vice versa. Get a pan, mix some resin with a little less hardener, fill the pan. Dip the pieces of mat, let them soak and drip, and stick them on but try not to get air trapped underneath . Use your chip brush to spread out the excess resin and work out the air bubbles if any (with a good dabbing technique). Layers depends on the weight of mat used and shape of the box but youre going to want a good 1/4" at least.
I like to make my sub cutouts after the filler and primer, a rotozip works best. Make the cutouts too early and its likely youll make a mess on the rings. You also might want to reinforce the MDF/glass seams from the inside considering youre using HDC3's.
duplicate :edit:
1) make the MDF skeleton.. including MDF mount rings and Braced and Port
yep
2) cover with the Fleece material and make it smooth
Stretch it until all wrinkles are gone , wrinkle in the fleece now will be a pain in your rear later
3) add the hardener/resin and make it strong and dry and smooth as possible
saturate the ever loving poo poo out of the fleece ( or what ever mold fabric you use )
4) Trim, Body filler, sand, sand, and make a smooth and clear shell to paint
nope , step four should be reinforcing your gigantic resin coated fleece blob with mat and or cloth. Considering your talking about a huge fugging enclosure, your gonna need several layers. THen you go on to step your step four
4) Trim, Body filler, sand, sand, and make a smooth and clear shell to paint
smooth is the key , you will be sanding for ever if your looking for it to be clear. Resin and mat isn't clear from the get go
5) Paint and install
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
yep
2) cover with the Fleece material and make it smooth
Stretch it until all wrinkles are gone , wrinkle in the fleece now will be a pain in your rear later
3) add the hardener/resin and make it strong and dry and smooth as possible
saturate the ever loving poo poo out of the fleece ( or what ever mold fabric you use )
4) Trim, Body filler, sand, sand, and make a smooth and clear shell to paint
nope , step four should be reinforcing your gigantic resin coated fleece blob with mat and or cloth. Considering your talking about a huge fugging enclosure, your gonna need several layers. THen you go on to step your step four
4) Trim, Body filler, sand, sand, and make a smooth and clear shell to paint
smooth is the key , you will be sanding for ever if your looking for it to be clear. Resin and mat isn't clear from the get go
5) Paint and install
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
OP
RipDaJacka
Banned
- Thread Starter
- #6
You fellaz are a huge help!! I think I'll do an MDF with a Fiberglass face.. Cant believe I didnt think of it... Maybe it will work out ok since it is my 1st time.. Imma print off stayTuned's tut and try my best to do it like that
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Similar threads
- Started by Lynne
- General Car Audio
- Started by Little2012
- Subwoofers
- Started by Speedyed
- General Car Audio
About this thread
