Fi subwoofer help?

i see the is going to go into a tahoe, id would see about finding a dual alt bracket for that truck, and running a second alt on a pair of batts, you will maintain good voltage to that amp for sure, like they said earlier you wont hear a difference between the q and bl few can. just be aware if you want fi its going to take a little while for them to build you your subs, great company great products just can have some lengthy build times, well worth it in my opionon. I switched from 4 9515's in the past to 8 ssd 15's and the difference was night and day, fi hands down sounded better and louder and that was from ported dd, to sealed fi

 
D2 refers to Dual 2Ohm voice coil configuration. Don't worry about being new. We all started somewhere. The difference between one or two extra batteries can be huge. Especially regarding which batteries you choose. The batteries and alt are a must if you ever want to see anywhere near the rated power from that amp. Consider their power measurements are at 13.8V which the majority of cars will never even come close to. I would spend some time reading before you buy. You are on the right track for a killer system. There are a ton of folks here that can help you and are willing to do so.
so youre advising to get the dual 2 not the dual 1 on the subwoofers. and which batteries and alternators should i be looking into?

 
so youre advising to get the dual 2 not the dual 1 on the subwoofers. and which batteries and alternators should i be looking into?
Ok, I want you to research parallel and series wiring. There are several online calculators that will do it for you, but I recommend you have a solid understanding of each method and how it relates to the final load on the amplifier. I could advise you all I want on what you need to get, but in the end want you to know why you bought what you did.

As for Batteries, I am not much of a brand guy. I buy based on personal experience with the product and the owner. This is one of the reasons I buy drivers manufactured by Fi. I have used Powermaster, Kinetic, and Optima batteries in the past and would recommend any of them. You will need to know the size limitations and buy the batteries that will physically fit in that location. If you don't have a size limitation, pick the highest capacity you can within your budget.

I have no experience with respects to alternators. I will have to lean on others experience there. Any of the vehicles that I have worked on that required the addition of an upgraded alternator had them installed by someone else.

Chris

 
as tprj82 said in reference to Fi, understand that each driver is machine and built in house on a per order basis. This lends to a longer than average wait time which can extend to 30 days. I have never waited that long, but some have. When planning your install, keep that in mind. IMO they are worth waiting for.

 
yeah i have briefly have reviewed wiring diagrams and all of that but all and all. i feel like this would be a good setup. would i need to put some dampening down?

 
i'm looking for sound quality and loud, shaking the body window flex. all of that. for 300$ i can get dd audio 2500 series or i can get the Fi bl or Q for less with the cooling option for free. so here's my question i've heard some stuff about the tinsel lead breaking on the Fi's any comments or something to send me in the right direction. i know these are both quality subs. also is there really that much of a drop in sound quality as there is in spl between the Q and Bl?
My tinsels just broke off on my BL, snapped in half so its **** near impossible to fix

edit: Fi refused to fix it under warranty so im looking at a $280 recone cost if i choose to do it through Fi. Fi said that the recones come with stiched leads though, so why dont they do it to begin with?!

 
I've ran Fi Q's for the last 4 years. Four 15"s sealed on one RF T4000 then three of them ported on two T4000's. Never had any issues with them but install and listening habits helped with that. Should have my BTL's going as soon as they get here. Ordered them 6 weeks ago and they just now shipped.

 
alright well i was going to get the crescendo 5800 bc and run it on a .5 ohm load. i have no idea if i want to get the 1ohm or 2ohm voice coils. but i keep hearing go with the bl series. should i get the internal lead on that?
I hope you have already dropped a few $100's on your electrical upgrade cause your for sure gona need to!!!!

 
[quote name='tc300']I hope you have already dropped a few $100's on your electrical upgrade cause your for sure gona need to!!!![/QUOTE]

Im not sure if internals are stictched into the spiders. Apparantly BL recones have stitched leads but my woofer did not have such. Ask first, their CS is getting a bit better.

GPI Attitude 15" confirmed for me on saturday, so this BL is going soon for cheap

That quote was for @Bakesbaked ;
 
My tinsels just broke off on my BL, snapped in half so its **** near impossible to fix
edit: Fi refused to fix it under warranty so im looking at a $280 recone cost if i choose to do it through Fi. Fi said that the recones come with stiched leads though, so why dont they do it to begin with?!
Was it a manufacturing error that caused the leads to break?

You say it would cost $280 for recones through Fi, I am assuming that is for multiple drivers, correct? You can order recones with a traditional or sewn in leads if you specify. Speakers have survived since their inception with a traditional lead. The extreme abuse drivers see in the car audio world cause them to fail more often than not. Driving the speaker past it's mechanical limits to see how loud it goes will make any driver fail. I can say I have run a multitude of Fi built drivers and never had an issue with a lead failing. For that matter I have never had a lead failure from any sub by any manufacturer in my car. Sewn in leads have their own inherent problems too, so it is not safe to assume this design is superior. Each design has its benefits and limitations.

 
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