equipment capatability advice

lol...it did. In another post, Op said he fried a coil on his L7 from not setting the gains right...I do not think AQ is a bad product, but if he is set on buying the Sundown E12, he might as well run D2's at 2 ohms and save himself some worry over past experiences...you hear me, bro?
ps, his headlights might not dim either at 2ohms, the amp will be more efficient power wise too.

 

---------- Post added at 01:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21 PM ----------

 

if he is bad at setting them 870 is still rms if he clips they are still going to blow.
I think he understands alot more now.

 
ps, his headlights might not dim either at 2ohms, the amp will be more efficient power wise too. 

---------- Post added at 01:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21 PM ----------

 

I think he understands alot more now.
Hmm..maybe i confused with another OP on the same topic?..lol...my bad

 
lol...it did. In another post, Op said he fried a coil on his L7 from not setting the gains right...I do not think AQ is a bad product, but if he is set on buying the Sundown E12, he might as well run D2's at 2 ohms and save himself some worry over past experiences...you hear me, bro?
I can dig that. I personally like to buy something that can suit me now and also handle powering upgraded equipment down the road.

 
Now that I think about, I have to side with Quack, not because I totally agree with the way he does things but rather because I got confused on the amp. I was thinking AQ1200 but AQ750 at the same time and thought that the AQ1200 was rated 750 at 2 ohms. Now that I've been reminded it's 870, go that route OP. Get the dual 2 ohm subs and wire to 2.

 
I can dig that. I personally like to buy something that can suit me now and also handle powering upgraded equipment down the road.
oh yeah, no doubt. When he asked for suggestions on a$500 subs/amp combo, I suggested he American Bass HD3500 1600@ 1ohm or the Lanzar Opti 2000D with 1600@ 1.3ohm on 2 American Bass TNT 600w 12's...beefy subs for what they are. The Lanzar/TNT setup was @450, IIRC... A whole 'nother level from the AQ1200 and 2 E12's for the same $

 
oh yeah, no doubt. When he asked for suggestions on a$500 subs/amp combo, I suggested he American Bass HD3500 1600@ 1ohm or the Lanzar Opti 2000D with 1600@ 1.3ohm on 2 American Bass TNT 600w 12's...beefy subs for what they are. The Lanzar/TNT setup was @450, IIRC... A whole 'nother level from the AQ1200 and 2 E12's for the same $
I like the way you think ; )

 
I don't get why people spend big money to not sound as good as they could with better equipment for the same price if not cheaper. And when I say sound good, I mean sound quality, not how loud it shakes the mirrors. I'm surprised JL didn't come up in this convo

 
I don't get why people spend big money to not sound as good as they could with better equipment for the same price if not cheaper. And when I say sound good, I mean sound quality, not how loud it shakes the mirrors. I'm surprised JL didn't come up in this convo
I just like to throw a cog in the system..I mean really..like this guy here trying to get some bump in his ride....If he runs the AQ at 1ohm, he will need a big 3 upgrade and a good battery. Which I would recommend on anything over a 500 watt system anyway at 1 ohm...but if you can get a good solid 1000 watts at 4 ohms, the initial cost would be high, like $600 or more like this:

Lanzar OPTI4601D Mono Subwoofer Amplifiers at Onlinecarstereo.com but dude, the amp would be running at it's most efficient in terms of power requirements and sound quality....both of which go downhill real fast when the ohms drop...and with that amp, you could have endless upgrade opportunities as the bass bug eats at you.

..I'd take that over a $600 fosgate or Jl anyday.

 
So I am still confused how I should wire this without compromising any part of my setup (battery, subs, amp, altenator). I have heard a few ways on this thread on how to hook it up. I looked on crutchfields wiring diagrams http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/rnt/rnw/img/enduser/Mono_2-4ODVC.jpg

Is that how I should hook mine up? Like I said I want to get around 800 watts out of both the sa e10s with the aq1200. So want to make sure that diagram will work correctly for what I am trying to do, or, if quaks is the best way, could someone draw a diagram out for me so I can see it visually?

 
or should I just go with the dual 2 ohm subs instead of the 4 ohm and wire it at a 2 ohm load to the amp so it would be just a bit over 800 watts? I don't plan on upgrading this setup anytime soon and if I do ever upgrade I would sell this setup and get something different.

 
Do it Quack's way. Buy the dual 2 ohm subs and wire like this :

2_2ohmDVC_2ohm.png


 
Looking for opinions on amp now. Heard there may be a better less costly amp for my setup besides the aq1200d. I found the following 2:

Kenwood KAC-9105D

1800W Max Class D Monoblock Performance Series Amplifier

(I know it is not 1800 watts, but it is 900 watts rms at 2 ohm)

Hifonics HFi1500D

1500W RMS Class D Monoblock HFi Series Amplifier (HFi 1500D

Heard both bad and good thins with this amp...100 watts rms at 2 ohm load

So between the kenwood, hifonics and aq1200d which is best for me? If you have other options please list them and tell me why thanks

 
[quote name='cobaltitaliano']Looking for opinions on amp now. Heard there may be a better less costly amp for my setup besides the aq1200d. I found the following 2:

Kenwood KAC-9105D
1800W Max Class D Monoblock Performance Series Amplifier

(I know it is not 1800 watts, but it is 900 watts rms at 2 ohm)

Hifonics HFi1500D
1500W RMS Class D Monoblock HFi Series Amplifier (HFi 1500D

Heard both bad and good thins with this amp...100 watts rms at 2 ohm load

So between the kenwood, hifonics and aq1200d which is best for me? If you have other options please list them and tell me why thanks[/QUOTE]

FIRST, NO MATTER WHICH OF THE ABOVE AMPS YOU BUY, YOU WILL NEED A BIG 3 UPGRADE this is the most beneficial and efficient upgrade you will need to do. Most of the amp failures today are from fools buying amps just like you are looking at and dropping them to 1 ohm and driving the crap out of them on stock electrical wiring and a stock battery.


As a suggestion, I would look for the best deal on the best amp I could find, and just buy subs to match my build design like enclosure requirements, ported vs sealed, etc. If you wanted a good tight sounding and decently loud system, you would just need to purchase quality built D4 subs wired to 4ohms in a custom box that can handle more power if needed,(600w/ea). 700 watts at 4 ohms with 85+% efficiency, you might not even need to upgrade your battery...might.

If you wanted really stupid loud, just wire them down to 1 ohm and run heavy wire to the back with an extra battery..(easily done)
in other words, take 2 these and wire them to 4ohms and bump til you can afford to run some heavy ga. to the back and upgrade your stock battery or add one in the back. Then wire them down to 1ohm and let er rip. You will not be disappointed with your purchases and you will have some of the best available equipment for the $.

Get with one of the guys who run these subs like @Kangaroux to discuss these subs and what they can do and how they like to do it.

Obsidian Audio 12 D4
Obsidian Car Audio

...the subs above would get 350 watts each on the following amp wired to 4ohms, or 800-1000 each wired to 1ohm and beefed electrical.
Lanzar OPTI2000D Class D Amplifiers at Onlinecarstereo.com

Personally, I care not what choices you make, I don't make a dime off your decisions,but I do not like to see anyone make an uninformed decision and regret it down the road...the system I suggest at 4ohms will sound better and outperform the above mentioned amps at 2 or 1 ohm. And be super efficient.
 
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