Engine block to ground question.

XaznKewLguyX
10+ year member

bloop
I've done the battery to ground and alt to battery upgrade already. Last thing i need is the engine block to ground but im stumped on a few things.

Seems like the OEM wiring from my car's engine block (97 accord ex) goes to the neg on the battery. Would I run another run from the engine block to the neg battery too?

Also can I pick any random bolt on the engine block to put the ring terminal under or does it have to be a certain one?

 
somebody please help fast, I put in a 2nd battery yesterday and upgraded the 2/3 of the big 3 and now my RPM's go crazy at idle when I turn up my music and it is much worse then before with just one battery.

Would it be the last step of the big 3 that is causing it?

 
hey jim...I also have a Honda,... When my idle was "set correctly" it would idle at 800 rpm....untill I turned my system up then it would cause iot to drop and overcompensate by revving up the engine quite hi...this was a multiple fix issue....new battery, cleaning of the idle air control, and it was suggested I replace the alternator (on an older 92 model---probably worn out.) Not saying it isnt a wiring issue of course...Hondas are strange.

 
somebody please help fast, I put in a 2nd battery yesterday and upgraded the 2/3 of the big 3 and now my RPM's go crazy at idle when I turn up my music and it is much worse then before with just one battery.
Would it be the last step of the big 3 that is causing it?

VERY VERY CAREFULLY look over ALL of the Vacuum lines... Hondas are a particular little vehicle and will not tolerate one STUPID little thing misplaced or disconnected. Again...not saying this is the problem but you were under the hood making connections and moving stuff around. Thank Gawd I have a good mechanic that likes me!

 
I have a feeling your problems are coming from the new battery rather than the wires you put in...
How do you have the battery connected?
Ran a run of 0awg from the under hood battery(red top) to the trunk battery(yellow top) and fused both ends of them. And grounded the trunk battery to my trunk chassis. Both batteries stay at 14.4 at idle, and my voltage drops down to 13.3 when bass hits. I know that isnt a good thing. It was never this bad before when i just had one battery.

 
Seems like the OEM wiring from my car's engine block (97 accord ex) goes to the neg on the battery. Would I run another run from the engine block to the neg battery too?
Since the neg battery terminal is wired to the chassis, wiring the block to the neg terminal is the same electrically as wiring it to the chassis. Since the bat neg post is the actual "ground" with the car off, this makes sense from the point of getting max current and voltage to the starter motor.
Also can I pick any random bolt on the engine block to put the ring terminal under or does it have to be a certain one?
A bolt on the block is a bolt on the block. Just make sure that it doesn't have a purpose that will be disturbed when you take it out or put the ring on it (water jacket drain, head bolt, etc...).
 
You're fine just adding wire to the Engine Block to Battery Negative. Grounding to the battery negative does help a lot from what I've found. I used to get 9 volt drops, now I get nothing after the big 3.

 
somebody please help fast, I put in a 2nd battery yesterday and upgraded the 2/3 of the big 3 and now my RPM's go crazy at idle when I turn up my music and it is much worse then before with just one battery.
Would it be the last step of the big 3 that is causing it?
My RMP's spike at idle for no reason, at random times but once it gets in about 10 seconds of it it stops... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif Hondas=strance...

and yes even a little hose or anything in them will cause the car to go all crazy...

 
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XaznKewLguyX

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