skeptikal
Strecker25
10+ year member
Better than everyone
what year lumina u got? mines a 94 and the **** thing sounds like a tin can with rocks inside of it. Ive got about 30sq ft of dynamat extreme and it hasnt touched the rattles yet...
the liquad edead worked for me so im guessing the mat will work too
Strecker25
10+ year member
Better than everyone
na actually just formatted my hd so theyre gone, its your standard 4 dr seinor citizen gold lumina, i like it though. 83k on it, barely any rust and is actually quick for what it is. Let me know how much that 120sqft covers when u lay it down.
btw how is the big 3 helping ur elec system?
nosaj070
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
I've heard nothing but good things about it. I heard it sticks very well, and well, thats pretty much the biggest requirement. I was cheap and impatient, so I just used peal n seal and have had no problems what soever.
used eDead v3 - the liquid type. worked very well for me. I did the whole trunk, under the rear deck, the trunk lid, and behind the license plate, and a little bit of the inside of the bumper (that you can see from laying under the car...lol).
the first good thing was that was easy to put on. just paint it right on and make sure you can control the droppage when doing stuff upside down.
the main difference was that before I eDead'd the trunk, and I open the trunk up with the system playing, all you heard was just 60% bass and 40% rattling/noise. of course from the inside of the car though, I'd hear all bass and no rattling...but once I open the trunk it got pretty nasty. so after I deadened it, I absentmindedly realized how the only "noise" I heard was only from the fins of the air vents in the trunk. and that was it...I think I opened up the trunk to grab something out of it, sat back in the car, and then "just" realized it.
the second main difference was that I got a huge increase in the lower midbass range....around 75-90hz. this made up for the poor midbass I got from kick panels...which is the primary problem...but setting my bass crossover around 90hz at least fills the gap.
the third thing was that noise that occurs outside the vehicle, e.g. rattling of the trunk lid, license plate, etc., was reduced significantly. however let me add that in addition to eDead, I used some expanding foam in the holes of the trunk lid & primarily behind the license plate. without that foam behind the license plate, I'd still have rattles (with just 1 layer of eDead behind it).
well, as far as bad stuff, I don't know if you consider it bad or not, but basically the deadener keeps inside sounds inside, and outside sounds outside. cause sometimes I'll be rolling down the street with all windows up & the system going, and from the outside, you pratically hear no bass. the only sounds you could hear are those areas which need more sound deadening techniques applied.
also, after I deadened the trunk, there is a noticeable "outside" increase of midbass with the trunk open, and an increase in sub-bass inside the car with the trunk closed. before, it would be the same. this may just be an artifact of my car or whatever, but just thought I'd mention it. the way I think about it is
my trunk before deadening = a cardboard box
my trunk after deadening = a brick wall
the first good thing was that was easy to put on. just paint it right on and make sure you can control the droppage when doing stuff upside down.
the main difference was that before I eDead'd the trunk, and I open the trunk up with the system playing, all you heard was just 60% bass and 40% rattling/noise. of course from the inside of the car though, I'd hear all bass and no rattling...but once I open the trunk it got pretty nasty. so after I deadened it, I absentmindedly realized how the only "noise" I heard was only from the fins of the air vents in the trunk. and that was it...I think I opened up the trunk to grab something out of it, sat back in the car, and then "just" realized it.
the second main difference was that I got a huge increase in the lower midbass range....around 75-90hz. this made up for the poor midbass I got from kick panels...which is the primary problem...but setting my bass crossover around 90hz at least fills the gap.
the third thing was that noise that occurs outside the vehicle, e.g. rattling of the trunk lid, license plate, etc., was reduced significantly. however let me add that in addition to eDead, I used some expanding foam in the holes of the trunk lid & primarily behind the license plate. without that foam behind the license plate, I'd still have rattles (with just 1 layer of eDead behind it).
well, as far as bad stuff, I don't know if you consider it bad or not, but basically the deadener keeps inside sounds inside, and outside sounds outside. cause sometimes I'll be rolling down the street with all windows up & the system going, and from the outside, you pratically hear no bass. the only sounds you could hear are those areas which need more sound deadening techniques applied.
also, after I deadened the trunk, there is a noticeable "outside" increase of midbass with the trunk open, and an increase in sub-bass inside the car with the trunk closed. before, it would be the same. this may just be an artifact of my car or whatever, but just thought I'd mention it. the way I think about it is
my trunk before deadening = a cardboard box
my trunk after deadening = a brick wall
i use both the liquid deadner and the v.1se mat. works pretty well. i recommend 2 layers of the mat. also i went over the mat with a coat of the liquid. the liquid is also helpful because it's easier to get in to the small areas.
I think Ben Milne from ED is selling some edead on ebay. The price that he is selling it on ebay is a little cheaper than buying it from the site. From the site its $1 for 1 sq feet + shipping. But you can get like 60 sq feet for $50 bucks + shipping. I dont know how long thats going to last. 120 sq feet for $100 + shipping
OP
skeptikal
Premium Member
Hold the wheel and drive
- Thread Starter
- #10
Strecker i gotta blue lumina //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif. the only parts of the big 3 i have done is regrounded the engine block and regrounded the battery. but with just these 2 i have noticed a lot less light dimming even though i still get some.
Sumone that is exactly the type of thing i was looking for and i greatly appreciate it. i watched the eDead v3.0 video and it looks just so easy... but i dont want to spend the money on the mat and to do the paint on shyt too. im just a cheapskate like that though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif. how long did it take you to do the trunk of your car also? cuz im thinkin i only wanna do like a 2 hour project or so in the winter since it gets cold as pyss up here.
Sumone that is exactly the type of thing i was looking for and i greatly appreciate it. i watched the eDead v3.0 video and it looks just so easy... but i dont want to spend the money on the mat and to do the paint on shyt too. im just a cheapskate like that though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif. how long did it take you to do the trunk of your car also? cuz im thinkin i only wanna do like a 2 hour project or so in the winter since it gets cold as pyss up here.
when you do the liquid make sure everything is dry and stuff. some people are posting that its rusting up some parts of thier car. ben said that hes doing a little investigation to see whats making the rust.
when I did it, it was in the upper 70s & pretty dry air. I think it took me about 1 & a half hours to do; this was my first time ever having to paint, so I took my time...which is probably an understatement...I went slow as hell. Then I waited about 3 hours for stuff to dry completely. only did one layer.
yea Ben was saying that if you add another wet layer on top of a non-fully dried layer, then when the top layer dries, it could be trapping the moisture from the lower layer in....and causing rust. so just make sure stuff is fully dry.
if you're worried about time & the weather and stuff, solid deadener may be better since you don't have to wait for it to dry. if you decide to do both, make sure you do the solid first, then the liquid.
yea Ben was saying that if you add another wet layer on top of a non-fully dried layer, then when the top layer dries, it could be trapping the moisture from the lower layer in....and causing rust. so just make sure stuff is fully dry.
if you're worried about time & the weather and stuff, solid deadener may be better since you don't have to wait for it to dry. if you decide to do both, make sure you do the solid first, then the liquid.
Spkrman
Banned
i was always under the impression it was liquid, then matte.
seeing as how its much easier to get the liquid into the cracks/crevices... and those are all sealed up once you put the matte down.
seeing as how its much easier to get the liquid into the cracks/crevices... and those are all sealed up once you put the matte down.
nosaj070
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
Goodluck getting that in all the cracks and crevicies of your car, I would recomend getting just the normal stuff as well.
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