Dynamat

[Alpine2005 10+ year member]

a few months back i installed a Dynamat door kit on my truck and it made my comps sound deeper. so i was thinking of getting dynamat for the floor , roof, rear wall, and the fire wall.

so what kit do you guys recommend for the floor , roof, rear wall, and the fire wall?

would it make a big differeice in SQ and SPL?

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[albarran9 10+ year member]

if you got the money go for it. i saw all that stuff for the floors, firewall, ect. on second skinls site.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Here is what Rick of Raammat recommends:

• Front doors, doors with speakers, remove door panel and plastic moisture
  barier, toss it in the trash.
   
  
• One layer of mat on most of the outer door skin, overlap the seems, add
  two more smaller layers, about 12" sq, behind the speakers. Then the same
  size piece of close cell foam on top of those layers(ensolite foam is best).
   
  
• Check for loose wires, cables, etc, inside the door, secure with foam tape,
  tie wraps, etc. build up the speaker mounting location by making a solid
  baffel that you can screw to the door then the speakers to it, MDF works
  great and easy to work with.
  
• Seal up the door access holes with a piece of tin, I use perforated
  aluminum, this gives the next layer of mat something to stick to and
  tightens up the midbass response.
  
• Install one layer of mat over the inner door metal, seal all air passages
  possible, cut the mat back around 1" from edge of door panel.
  
• Add a layer of 1/8" close cell foam, ensolite again is best but hard to
  find, to the top of the mat, cut around all mounting points, same for the
  mat, to make sure the door panel will fit back on ok, cut back around 1/2"
  from edge of panel.
  
• Tap on the back of the door panel, being plastic it will have resonate
  areas. Add patches of mat to those areas until it sounds deadened, usually
  about 1/4 to 1/3 of the surface is enough, install the panel and test the
  the door, slam it a few times and listen for rattles, etc.
   
  
• Rear doors, as the front, if they have speakers in them.
  
• Doors without speakers, just mat the inner door metal, covering the access
  holes, like above no need to mat the outer door skin.
  
• Rear side panels, outer metal skin, foam, varies from vehicle to vehicle,
  try to seal up the best you can like the doors.
  
• Rear hatch, same as above.
   
  
• Floor, One layer everywhere, tap on the floor and add a second and sometims
  a third layer to the resonate areas only, any more is a waste of mat and
  effort, once an area is deadened, there is nothing more to gain with adding
  more mat.
  
• Some tend to over use the mat in some areas and not enough in others.
  
• Add a layer of 1/4" close cell foam or two layers of 1/8" then the factory
  carpet, done!

Notes:

If you want to go all out on the floor, you can add do a layering effect

over the really resonate areas of the floor. One layer of mat, a layer of

foam, another layer of mat then another layer of foam, only use 1/8" foam so

the floor does not get to high for the carpets to fit back in. This method

will absorb even more accoustical energy but mainly used for all out comp

car installs.

Roof, not usually needed, least results, alot of effort, once the rest is

done, test and decide what to do. On a black or very dark vehicle, a

tremendous amount of heat build up can occur on the roof, one layer is the

maximum I would use to cover it then add a solid layer of close cell foam.

If you have an exceptionally loud exhaust and or tires, they are the worst

offenders as they permeate the air around the vehicle and penetrate from

many areas. Sometimes they have to be changed no matter how well matted,

just want you to be aware of this issue.

Thanks!

Rick

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

I'd also recommend you use a combination of mat deadener and liquid deadener on areas like the floor, as liquid deadener has better acoustic barrier/sound absorption properties than mat deadener.

 

[loud1988honda 10+ year member]

Get a dynamat bulk pack and have at the car remove as much stuff as u can and put one to two layers over the car. Be careful with spray deadners cause if u decided to compete is spl some of the organizations prohibit the use of spray deadners and foams. but any asphalt type material will make a difference in spl and sq.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Dynamat //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsdown.gif.d22f25895e9b40f2300c953691dacfa2.gif

Cheaper options that work just aswell. Look into Raammat (http://www.raamaudio.com), FatMat, B-quiet, etc.

My personal favorite thus far is Raammat.

 

[monte_carlo97 10+ year member]

Get a dynamat bulk pack and have at the car remove as much stuff as u can and put one to two layers over the car. Be careful with spray deadners cause if u decided to compete is spl some of the organizations prohibit the use of spray deadners and foams. but any asphalt type material will make a difference in spl and sq.

one bulk pack will not even be close to enough. If i remember correctly it is only 36 sq. ft of mat.

I have installed to this point of over 200 sq. ft. of mat in my car.

about 125 sq. ft. of mat in my trunk alone.

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

go with the RAAMAT, im still workign on my truck I ordered 2.5 rolls and 2 large pieces of foam. I'm not going to use any liquid deadener cause I'm lazy and I thin the RAAMAT will be plenty good enough.

I'm Instailling in a Nissan TItan KC to get an idea of how much the whole thing will take. I may have a little extra but I'm not sure, ill probably just use it all up. I used 1 layer outer door skin, and added a second layer to some places and I also used 2 layers on the inner door skin and then the foam. I like the way the foam works so far but I don't even have my system yet. I jsut matted over the open areas in the doors with no backing because there are just too many large strange shaped open areas on the titans doors to bother with.

 

[swaptrex 10+ year member]

Dynamat //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsdown.gif.d22f25895e9b40f2300c953691dacfa2.gif
Cheaper options that work just aswell. Look into Raammat (http://www.raamaudio.com), FatMat, B-quiet, etc.

My personal favorite thus far is Raammat.

squeak, i am not trying to say you are wrong.....but i hear that these brands are better than the "internet" brands and have never really seen stats to prove it. got any info, such as charts,etc.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Sorry, no fancy charts and graphs. Just my own personal experience and the experiences of many many people who are more knowledgeable than myself.

But; look at it this way. Bulk pack of Dynamat Extreme is ~$150+shipping at best if you can find a killer deal, and $250+ if bought locally. That's for 36sqft. Raammat cost $99+shipping for 62.5sqft. So, even if you needed to use twice as much Raammat for equivalent performance (which, you don't, but for example purposes) it's still atleast ~62% cheaper than Dynamat //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

But seriously, Raammat is very good stuff. Flexible, excellent adhesion, and great deadening properties.

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

I got my RAAMAT for even cheaper there is a way to get a little discount, also it is not tar based and 60 mil thick, so it should work better, I also heard ofther brands don't stick as well but I'm not sure, I know this stuff is super sticky I have no worries it will fall off.

I have heard numerous times that Dynamat sucks in comparison. As in not as effective and not as tacky as well as being tar based.