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<blockquote data-quote="squeak9798" data-source="post: 1002587" data-attributes="member: 555320"><p>Here is what Rick of Raammat recommends:</p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Front doors, doors with speakers, remove door panel and plastic moisture<br /> barier, toss it in the trash.<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">One layer of mat on most of the outer door skin, overlap the seems, add<br /> two more smaller layers, about 12" sq, behind the speakers. Then the same<br /> size piece of close cell foam on top of those layers(ensolite foam is best).<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Check for loose wires, cables, etc, inside the door, secure with foam tape,<br /> tie wraps, etc. build up the speaker mounting location by making a solid<br /> baffel that you can screw to the door then the speakers to it, MDF works<br /> great and easy to work with.<br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Seal up the door access holes with a piece of tin, I use perforated<br /> aluminum, this gives the next layer of mat something to stick to and<br /> tightens up the midbass response.<br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Install one layer of mat over the inner door metal, seal all air passages<br /> possible, cut the mat back around 1" from edge of door panel.<br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Add a layer of 1/8" close cell foam, ensolite again is best but hard to<br /> find, to the top of the mat, cut around all mounting points, same for the<br /> mat, to make sure the door panel will fit back on ok, cut back around 1/2"<br /> from edge of panel.<br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Tap on the back of the door panel, being plastic it will have resonate<br /> areas. Add patches of mat to those areas until it sounds deadened, usually<br /> about 1/4 to 1/3 of the surface is enough, install the panel and test the<br /> the door, slam it a few times and listen for rattles, etc.<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Rear doors, as the front, if they have speakers in them.<br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Doors without speakers, just mat the inner door metal, covering the access<br /> holes, like above no need to mat the outer door skin.<br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Rear side panels, outer metal skin, foam, varies from vehicle to vehicle,<br /> try to seal up the best you can like the doors.<br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Rear hatch, same as above.<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Floor, One layer everywhere, tap on the floor and add a second and sometims<br /> a third layer to the resonate areas only, any more is a waste of mat and<br /> effort, once an area is deadened, there is nothing more to gain with adding<br /> more mat.<br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Some tend to over use the mat in some areas and not enough in others.<br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Add a layer of 1/4" close cell foam or two layers of 1/8" then the factory<br /> carpet, done!</li> </ul><p></p><p></p><p><strong>Notes:</strong></p><p></p><p>If you want to go all out on the floor, you can add do a layering effect</p><p></p><p>over the really resonate areas of the floor. One layer of mat, a layer of</p><p></p><p>foam, another layer of mat then another layer of foam, only use 1/8" foam so</p><p></p><p>the floor does not get to high for the carpets to fit back in. This method</p><p></p><p>will absorb even more accoustical energy but mainly used for all out comp</p><p></p><p>car installs.</p><p></p><p>Roof, not usually needed, least results, alot of effort, once the rest is</p><p></p><p>done, test and decide what to do. On a black or very dark vehicle, a</p><p></p><p>tremendous amount of heat build up can occur on the roof, one layer is the</p><p></p><p>maximum I would use to cover it then add a solid layer of close cell foam.</p><p></p><p>If you have an exceptionally loud exhaust and or tires, they are the worst</p><p></p><p>offenders as they permeate the air around the vehicle and penetrate from</p><p></p><p>many areas. Sometimes they have to be changed no matter how well matted,</p><p></p><p>just want you to be aware of this issue.</p><p></p><p>Thanks!</p><p></p><p>Rick</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="squeak9798, post: 1002587, member: 555320"] Here is what Rick of Raammat recommends: [LIST] [*]Front doors, doors with speakers, remove door panel and plastic moisture barier, toss it in the trash. [*]One layer of mat on most of the outer door skin, overlap the seems, add two more smaller layers, about 12" sq, behind the speakers. Then the same size piece of close cell foam on top of those layers(ensolite foam is best). [*]Check for loose wires, cables, etc, inside the door, secure with foam tape, tie wraps, etc. build up the speaker mounting location by making a solid baffel that you can screw to the door then the speakers to it, MDF works great and easy to work with. [*]Seal up the door access holes with a piece of tin, I use perforated aluminum, this gives the next layer of mat something to stick to and tightens up the midbass response. [*]Install one layer of mat over the inner door metal, seal all air passages possible, cut the mat back around 1" from edge of door panel. [*]Add a layer of 1/8" close cell foam, ensolite again is best but hard to find, to the top of the mat, cut around all mounting points, same for the mat, to make sure the door panel will fit back on ok, cut back around 1/2" from edge of panel. [*]Tap on the back of the door panel, being plastic it will have resonate areas. Add patches of mat to those areas until it sounds deadened, usually about 1/4 to 1/3 of the surface is enough, install the panel and test the the door, slam it a few times and listen for rattles, etc. [*]Rear doors, as the front, if they have speakers in them. [*]Doors without speakers, just mat the inner door metal, covering the access holes, like above no need to mat the outer door skin. [*]Rear side panels, outer metal skin, foam, varies from vehicle to vehicle, try to seal up the best you can like the doors. [*]Rear hatch, same as above. [*]Floor, One layer everywhere, tap on the floor and add a second and sometims a third layer to the resonate areas only, any more is a waste of mat and effort, once an area is deadened, there is nothing more to gain with adding more mat. [*]Some tend to over use the mat in some areas and not enough in others. [*]Add a layer of 1/4" close cell foam or two layers of 1/8" then the factory carpet, done! [/LIST] [B]Notes:[/B] If you want to go all out on the floor, you can add do a layering effect over the really resonate areas of the floor. One layer of mat, a layer of foam, another layer of mat then another layer of foam, only use 1/8" foam so the floor does not get to high for the carpets to fit back in. This method will absorb even more accoustical energy but mainly used for all out comp car installs. Roof, not usually needed, least results, alot of effort, once the rest is done, test and decide what to do. On a black or very dark vehicle, a tremendous amount of heat build up can occur on the roof, one layer is the maximum I would use to cover it then add a solid layer of close cell foam. If you have an exceptionally loud exhaust and or tires, they are the worst offenders as they permeate the air around the vehicle and penetrate from many areas. Sometimes they have to be changed no matter how well matted, just want you to be aware of this issue. Thanks! Rick [/QUOTE]
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