Its possible but main issue is how you will connect the computer to a dsp.So DSP instead of head unit possible?
One of the reasons for wanting to remove the HU is to lower power consumption. Appreciate an amp is going to increase it again but could I JUST use a DSP going to the amp or is that more power hungry than an HU?
Understood. Bear in mind my current source is a NUC running W10 and the audio is only coming out the 3.5mm headphone jack to RCA. I'm sure purists will turn their nose up at this but it's been ok for my needs. The new setup would be similar but this time coming from a unit with Dolby that's a bit more geared up for audio out.Its possible but main issue is how you will connect the computer to a dsp.
If it was a spdif connection then it would provide the full source, but you would seem to be limit to a aux to right/left rca splitter connector.
Then you would have to use a rca splitter to connect multiple channels, which would cripple the connection even more.
You are gonna deteriate the source majorly.
Which is what has been posted above, you will just modify the source in a bad way or lower the source output significantly.
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Honestly you seem more worried about power.Understood. Bear in mind my current source is a NUC running W10 and the audio is only coming out the 3.5mm headphone jack to RCA. I'm sure purists will turn their nose up at this but it's been ok for my needs. The new setup would be similar but this time coming from a unit with Dolby that's a bit more geared up for audio out.
Another option is to use the HDMI to audio extractor to RCA. The weak link would be the quality of that box only since the supply signal is digital.
Yes! Sorry, I should have explained my scenario (I had posted about this in another thread so apologies for not explaining in this one). I live on a boat and rely on 12v, so I count every amp of power consumed. I can't afford to leave my instruments on all the time and they're only turned on as required. It's one reason why I'm swapping the NUC for the Android Minix - I save over half an amp - and will swap from externally powered hard drives to USB-powered drives - the idle power consumption will save me another half an amp or so. Since we listen to music mainly in the evenings we can't rely on solar to power our equipment.Honestly you seem more worried about power.
Have you considered putting audio on hold and upgrading power supply by adding to the battery bank it already has?Yes! Sorry, I should have explained my scenario (I had posted about this in another thread so apologies for not explaining in this one). I live on a boat and rely on 12v, so I count every amp of power consumed. I can't afford to leave my instruments on all the time and they're only turned on as required. It's one reason why I'm swapping the NUC for the Android Minix - I save over half an amp - and will swap from externally powered hard drives to USB-powered drives - the idle power consumption will save me another half an amp or so. Since we listen to music mainly in the evenings we can't rely on solar to power our equipment.
With this in mind I'm trying to work out how I can improve my audio set-up without using too much power, which was one of the reasons why I was trying to work out if it's possible to bypass the HU altogether. Another reason for trying to reduce the power consumption is because I want to add an amp, and obviously that's going to introduce more power consumption... so if I can save in one area then I can afford to give a little more to the amp. What hadn't occurred to me, however, was that using an external amp will reduce the power the HU uses, so thanks for pointing that out.
If a DSP can manage my audio sources in the same way a HU can and more, and it consumes the same in power, then maybe I should be looking at this as an alternative. I think without realising it this is what I've been looking for. I need to look into them more because it's a new subject for me (so I appreciate the replies to this thread).
$$$$$$$$$Have you considered putting audio on hold and upgrading power supply by adding to the battery bank it already has?
If your boat has solar panels that could charge during the day then a larger bank would help the power consumption.
Boats come with agm as a standard battery so in your case upgrading to a more expensive lithium battery or lipo4 would extend power bank by 50%.
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Im not gonna lie, im very clueless towards boat systems other then connecting them and upgrading the power system.$$$$$$$$$
No, happy with the battery set-up and limited for battery space anyway. Replaced our 6v Trojans only this year so sticking with that, which will see us good for another five years or more. Lithium nice idea but it requires replacing the entire charging system (shore power, engine etc). Including the cost of importing the batteries and setting up a new system we're talking thousands here. We'll be adding more solar next year though, so power consumption will be less of a deal but you'll find most liveaboards are always counting the amps because we run so many other items on board (laptops, chargers etc etc). Changing the battery system is nice in principle but we have to work with what we have right now.
Indeed it has, and I appreciate the responses. I've learned a lot in the last hour, so it's time to do some investigating. Thanks to everyone who helped out. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gifIm not gonna lie, im very clueless towards boat systems other then connecting them and upgrading the power system.
Well the info ive given is as far as i can provide, your current and main issue is power which i cant help as i really couldnt get into specifics usage amounts.
As far as audio limits, it has been explained to a almost detailed explanation.
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its still a form of sound processing like the head unit but does everything better.what about soundmanca's ipad setups? doesnt he go from an ipad to a dsp?
Here's some info you need to know thats pretty important. dsps are usually 600 dollars and up lmao.Yes! Sorry, I should have explained my scenario (I had posted about this in another thread so apologies for not explaining in this one). I live on a boat and rely on 12v, so I count every amp of power consumed. I can't afford to leave my instruments on all the time and they're only turned on as required. It's one reason why I'm swapping the NUC for the Android Minix - I save over half an amp - and will swap from externally powered hard drives to USB-powered drives - the idle power consumption will save me another half an amp or so. Since we listen to music mainly in the evenings we can't rely on solar to power our equipment.
With this in mind I'm trying to work out how I can improve my audio set-up without using too much power, which was one of the reasons why I was trying to work out if it's possible to bypass the HU altogether. Another reason for trying to reduce the power consumption is because I want to add an amp, and obviously that's going to introduce more power consumption... so if I can save in one area then I can afford to give a little more to the amp. What hadn't occurred to me, however, was that using an external amp will reduce the power the HU uses, so thanks for pointing that out.
If a DSP can manage my audio sources in the same way a HU can and more, and it consumes the same in power, then maybe I should be looking at this as an alternative. I think without realising it this is what I've been looking for. I need to look into them more because it's a new subject for me (so I appreciate the replies to this thread).
Cheers. Yep, happy to give a bit more power over to the amp //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifHere's some info you need to know thats pretty important. dsps are usually 600 dollars and up lmao.
I wouldnt worry about head unit power consumption at all your head unit power draw would be as little as a tiny LED light. I'd be more worried about adding that amp which is consume 3-4 times as much power as the head unit on full blast. You cant sacrifice processing power for amplifier power, thats how you lose overall audio quality and take a giant leap back.. Sure its louder but if it sounds like sh*t then you are still at a loss.
You can upgrade to much more efficient speakers that get loud on low power. Look for something with 92 db sensitivity and up.
useless...Cheers. Yep, happy to give a bit more power over to the amp //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Checked on Crutchfield, they have a few DSPs for under $300. Kicker Front Row at $249. Since I don't know this subject I've no idea if they're rated but good reviews on CF.
Also been recommended a BBE for the computer, since the source will be coming via headphone jack. This one gets quite rated on Amazon, and all for £12.99: https://www.amazon.co.uk/XR1075-Adjustment-Control-Channels-computers/dp/B00I1RZYYQ/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1512542587&sr=8-12&keywords=bbe
Except that's for Windows. I'll be running Android, but no doubt there are equivalent programs out there.useless...
This program does way more for the computer and its free.
https://sourceforge.net/projects/peace-equalizer-apo-extension/
That kicker is not a true dsp, its just a glorified line out convertor There's a giant difference between the two. I'd stay away from that.
yeah, the ipad route might be a tad costly, but it would be perfect for those looking for a car-puter type thingits still a form of sound processing like the head unit but does everything better.