dual battery?

[Franklinnn 10+ year member]

I can get a dirt cheap optima but its too big, could i get it and hook it in the trunk and its own + line from the alt, and only use it for amps, and subs, and buy a walmart battery for the front, for all the stock+ starting?

Is it worth it for a cheap yellow top, and use two different batteries, even if there isnt a line going from the + to + and - to - (or frame?

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[Franklinnn 10+ year member]

i CAN hook up 2 different batteries with an isolator, which i will buy, but i would like some input first in the yellowtop.

also what,where, and how much are good isolators?

if i should go for it, let me know ASAP, i dont want this deal to pass me up.

 

[Franklinnn 10+ year member]

anyone?!

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

I can get a dirt cheap optima but its too big, could i get it and hook it in the trunk and its own + line from the alt, and only use it for amps, and subs, and buy a walmart battery for the front, for all the stock+ starting?
Is it worth it for a cheap yellow top, and use two different batteries, even if there isnt a line going from the + to + and - to - (or frame?

If both batts are hooked to the same alt, it will drain from both batts...

Run power/ground wire to the back battery from the front battery and add the iso,(not needed really), between front and rear batt...and call it a day. Make sure you've done the big 3 and upgrade your power/ground to 1/0ga. Also find the best ground to ground the amp.

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

I dont like optima batteries...I like Kinetik, Deka, and XS Power, check those out 1st b4 you buy a yellow top.

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

Here's the question I should've asked 1st...

What's your current setup?

 

[Franklinnn 10+ year member]

If both batts are hooked to the same alt, it will drain from both batts...
Run power/ground wire to the back battery from the front battery and add the iso,(not needed really), between front and rear batt...and call it a day. Make sure you've done the big 3 and upgrade your power/ground to 1/0ga. Also find the best ground to ground the amp.

It will drain from both even with an isolator? I was going to do 1/0 from alt, then the iso, then the 1+ to my trunk for the rear batt and all audio+ extras and the other + to everything else stock.

Ifi think i get the yellow top for a good deal, it should be okay?

Right now i have stock alt, stock bat (dying) and 1000w amp and 2 alpine type E's and probably will do some upgrading as well.

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

It will drain from both even with an isolator? and if i think i get the yellow top for a good deal, it should be okay?
Right now i have stock alt, stock bat (dying) and 1000w amp and 2 alpine type E's and probably will do some upgrading as well.

Okay, with it's individual power line from the alt and iso inbetween, when the system is on it will still drain from the front batt due to the fact that they share the same alt. You'd have to get a second alt to run just the vehicle's electrical. But you dont need to do that. It's more efficient to run a power/ground wire from the from batt to the back batt. Aslo grounding the back batt will help as well. You can ground the amp to the batt. BUT...

In your case, you dont even need a second battery. All you need to do is upgrade your stock batt and do the big 3. No need for a second battery.

 

[Franklinnn 10+ year member]

Okay, with it's individual power line from the alt and iso inbetween, when the system is on it will still drain from the front batt due to the fact that they share the same alt. You'd have to get a second alt to run just the vehicle's electrical. But you dont need to do that. It's more efficient to run a power/ground wire from the from batt to the back batt. Aslo grounding the back batt will help as well. You can ground the amp to the batt. BUT...
In your case, you dont even need a second battery. All you need to do is upgrade your stock batt and do the big 3. No need for a second battery.

For 120$ for a brand new yellowtop, maybe i should just not have a front battery, and have it all in the back?

i thought with the isolater it made it so the electricity would pull from the alternator, but the diodes in the iso made it so they cant come from the other side, like this

link

Many people listen to their stereo without the engine running. This often leads to dead batteries and a vehicle that won't start. A battery isolator will let you completely discharge one battery without discharging the starting battery

i thought i would have 1 battery dedicated to the system and the other to stock to have a long lifespan on the batteries, but it looks like a good deal for the specs the yellowtop has.

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

For 120$ for a brand new yellowtop, maybe i should just not have a front battery, and have it all in the back?
i thought with the isolater it made it so the electricity would pull from the alternator, but the diodes in the iso made it so they cant come from the other side, like this

link

i thought i would have 1 battery dedicated to the system and the other to stock to have a long lifespan on the batteries, but it looks like a good deal for the specs the yellowtop has.

Yea that's why I said with the system on. It's not gonna be like you think. Just to run the battery off an alt by itself you'd need 2 alts. 1 for the system the other to run the vehicle. It's still gonna drain with or without an iso. The iso is there so it's not draining the front batt when the system is off. But if you had an upgraded batt under your hood and an upgraded batt in the rear, there really wont be much draining of anything. It's best (for a 1-2 added battery in the back) to run power/ground wire from the front battery to the back battery and do the big 3. The amp can be grounded to the back battery and the back battery can also have a ground.

You really dont need an extra battery in the back. Just upgrade your underhood battery with a car audio battery. Deka's have some good cheap batts that are high quality. Kinetik is another top brand, as well as XS power. But I'd suggest the deka's

 

[Franklinnn 10+ year member]

Yea that's why I said with the system on. It's not gonna be like you think. Just to run the battery off an alt by itself you'd need 2 alts. 1 for the system the other to run the vehicle. It's still gonna drain with or without an iso. The iso is there so it's not draining the front batt when the system is off. But if you had an upgraded batt under your hood and an upgraded batt in the rear, there really wont be much draining of anything. It's best (for a 1-2 added battery in the back) to run power/ground wire from the front battery to the back battery and do the big 3. The amp can be grounded to the back battery and the back battery can also have a ground.
You really dont need an extra battery in the back. Just upgrade your underhood battery with a car audio battery. Deka's have some good cheap batts that are high quality. Kinetik is another top brand, as well as XS power. But I'd suggest the deka's

I dont want to spend more than 150$ shipped and would like a reliable battery, that i still have room to upgrade more audio without worry.

With the optima i found, it would be cheap, and has tons of CCA and reserve, but wouldnt fit under the hood.

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

Here's a quick search for some cheap deka's.

Deka Intimidator Battery | Deka Intimidator Batteries - Remy Battery

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

I dont want to spend more than 150$ shipped and would like a reliable battery, that i still have room to upgrade more audio without worry.

Trust me, Deka's are very reliable. Check out the prices from that link I posted

 

[Franklinnn 10+ year member]

all the ones i looked at are WAY to big, off the deka website i found the 526RMF, which fits, but only has 540CCA and 80 reserve power, and i cant find a cost.

i need one in the 26R category.

i found a local number for dealers, ill give them a call in the morning, but any addition information would be great!!!

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

I also would like to know how low your volts drop to when you play your music? Do you have a volt metter at the amp showing the amps volt drop? If it's in the mid 12's then you're still doing ok, not great but ok. Your system should run fine all the way down to 12.4v'ish.