Dual Battery Setup - need help with isolator

[paintpollz]

Hello all:

Kevin here. I just joined the forum today. I recently purchased a 2010 Chevy Tahoe. It has a decent Bose stereo, and I'm looking to make some upgrades for it in the near future. When I first bought the Tahoe, I noticed that the Bose system would drain the life out of the battery wayyyy quicker than I would have ever imagined when the truck is off and accessories on. So I decided to get a dual battery setup, I purchased the Painless 42101 isolator kit. The problem with this isolator kit is the stereo doesn't draw enough power to have the auxiliary battery kick in. So if I leave the truck on for more than 35 minutes, the starting battery still runs dead, and the isolator won't kick in the aux battery for starting.

So what I think I need is some sort of battery selector switch inside the truck so I can select the aux battery when the car is off but the stereo/other electronics are running. This switch would need to work in tandem with the battery isolator so when the truck is running, both batteries can switch back and forth for charging.

How do you guys wire up your dual battery systems? What would you recommend I do? I want to be able to sit back on the beach with my family, have the stereo on and kids charging there electronics, all on the aux battery when the truck is off. Then be able to switch to the main batt for starting, and still have the isolator switch back and forth charging both batts.

Thanks!

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[Bomber Z 10+ year member]

I run 2 AGM batteries no isolator. Power wire run + to + and - to -. Has never failed.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Have you had your battery tested? Odd it would go dead that quick on a stock stereo.

What batteries are you using?

 

[Bomber Z 10+ year member]

Check out the Kinetic batteries

 

[speedyjuarez Premium Member]

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/398527-dual-battery-wiring-tutorial-why.html

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

Why u playing with ur car turned off is my question. Saving a few cents in gas can cost you 100's

 

[350zspl 10+ year member]

250 amp alt

to stinger batts

no isolator relay

no aux on / off switches

but you should use matching car audio batteries , be they XS/Kinetic/Stinger / so that their internal resistance is all the same

they all get used and charged together

i average about 10 years on the batts life

 

[paintpollz]

Have you had your battery tested? Odd it would go dead that quick on a stock stereo.
What batteries are you using?

its the factory AC delco batt. Batt has been tested and is in good working condition.

 

[paintpollz]

This is a good point and I've thought about this. When we drive on the beach and park, the car is turned off. We open the back and play tunes, plug in electronics chargers, whatever. Its just the hassle of starting the car every 30 minutes to charge, a true first world problem.

I'd rather be able to drain one battery completely (if it even gets to that point), and then be able to switch to the starting battery when I want to start the truck. That way, I'm never left stranded.

 

[paintpollz]

my aux batt is a yellow top, although I wish I knew more about batts before this, I would have bought a stinger.

 

[jumpshowhigh]

Might be a battery in poor condition, but getting a better isolator will go a long way....dual rectifier isolator from Perfect Switch is best I've seen on the market.