austin3334
Junior Member
The cone in my stock sub tore (98 lexus es 300).
So i removed it and discovered it was a single 2ohm. I went online trying to find a free air/IB sub and found the kicker comp vr series.
I ordered this one thinking it was a single 2 ohm Kicker CompVR 07CVR82 8-Inch 2-Ohm DVC Subwoofer | Warehouse Deals
It comes in tomorrow so I looked up the manual to look up the diagram. I found out it was a dual 2ohm //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/censored.gif.f9ad8e7c6db58c5530c5a0a20a3b5baf.gif! and I can only wire to 1ohm or 4ohm //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/censored.gif.f9ad8e7c6db58c5530c5a0a20a3b5baf.gif! again:rage://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/banghead.gif.8606515f668c74f6de0281deb475b6fd.gif.
So my main question is: should I return that sub and order the dual 4 ohm version: Amazon.com: Kicker CompVR 07CVR84 8-Inch 4-Ohm DVC Subwoofer: Electronics
OR
should I stick with it since its running off the stock amp then came with the car and will I be able to tell a difference?
Another thing, the stock sub was in some sort of weird bracket which is welded to the sub therefore i have about an inch all the way around the new sub, do i need to cover this area with something? or buy a piece of sheetmetal and create a bracket that fully blocks off the trunk from the inside?
One last question, I replaced the headunit with a double din dvd player and used a amp integration harness is keep the stock amp. My head units built in amp is: * Peak: 60 watts x 4 channels * RMS: 17 watts x 4 channels Should I keep the door speakers on the stock amp and run the sub off the head units?
Sorry for the long write up, just a little confused with the whole situation. Id buy an amp and get a JL sub if the car wasnt so old. So i dont feel like wiring up a new amp etc...
So i removed it and discovered it was a single 2ohm. I went online trying to find a free air/IB sub and found the kicker comp vr series.
I ordered this one thinking it was a single 2 ohm Kicker CompVR 07CVR82 8-Inch 2-Ohm DVC Subwoofer | Warehouse Deals
It comes in tomorrow so I looked up the manual to look up the diagram. I found out it was a dual 2ohm //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/censored.gif.f9ad8e7c6db58c5530c5a0a20a3b5baf.gif! and I can only wire to 1ohm or 4ohm //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/censored.gif.f9ad8e7c6db58c5530c5a0a20a3b5baf.gif! again:rage://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/banghead.gif.8606515f668c74f6de0281deb475b6fd.gif.
So my main question is: should I return that sub and order the dual 4 ohm version: Amazon.com: Kicker CompVR 07CVR84 8-Inch 4-Ohm DVC Subwoofer: Electronics
OR
should I stick with it since its running off the stock amp then came with the car and will I be able to tell a difference?
Another thing, the stock sub was in some sort of weird bracket which is welded to the sub therefore i have about an inch all the way around the new sub, do i need to cover this area with something? or buy a piece of sheetmetal and create a bracket that fully blocks off the trunk from the inside?
One last question, I replaced the headunit with a double din dvd player and used a amp integration harness is keep the stock amp. My head units built in amp is: * Peak: 60 watts x 4 channels * RMS: 17 watts x 4 channels Should I keep the door speakers on the stock amp and run the sub off the head units?
Sorry for the long write up, just a little confused with the whole situation. Id buy an amp and get a JL sub if the car wasnt so old. So i dont feel like wiring up a new amp etc...
