Doing the big 3. Trying to do it cheaply. Need your input.

Won't really make a difference in power delivery. What will make a difference is if it is flexible or not. Flexible wire is sooo nice. But if you don't care get either. I know many people that run welding wire.

 
I have a dual terminal port battery. Could I somehow get creative and take advantage of all 4 ports?
Interested in that as well as i'll have more inputs in my battery terminal then really needed. I quess it woun't hurt if i have a few more runs all over the place lol but just not sure if it'll be just a waste of wire/connectors/time. What i def will do thou is run 8g from battery's ground post to my headunit's grounding location since my Altima is knows for lacking ground in there.

 
I'm new here but thought I'd share my plan.. I also have a dual post battery and I plan on using the side posts for all my factory crap and the top posts for my audio upgrade. A) because I don't want to screw up my factory wiring and B) because it easier to work off of top posts for the big three and your runs.

 
I just wanted to add that I love how everyone buys gigantic 1/0 cable then use the cheapest, thinnest, shittiest ring terminals they can find...brilliant

 
I have a relevant question to add--I too am doing the big 3 soon and know that when grounding to the chassis, you must sand away the paint first. I have read that people paint or use underbody coating after to rust-proof, but I am unsure of the best way to do this. I am paranoid of rust, as they salt the roads here and gets up in my engine compartment.

Should I sand away paint, bolt down ring terminal, then apply coating? It seems like there would still be a chance for moisture to get in.

 
Yes, the big three makes no audible difference. but no one likes to hear that answer on here..
Perhaps not an "audible" difference but definitely measurable and is definitely necessary for H/O alternators or just expanding the life of your amps (if you have voltage drops). Which is why before my big 3 upgrade I had drops below 10v (yes horrible) and now it doesn't go below 12. I still plan on getting a 2nd battery and H/O alt but that's a 2v difference at full tilt. You may say that doesn't affect sound, but shorting my amp 2v not only kills the lifespan by overheating it, but will in turn make less watts.

In turn it really depends on the setup you have, the car you have, and how much power you're pulling. Overall for what 30 bux, it's the cheapest, quickest, and easiest thing you can do short of turning the volume down to help voltage drops. It may not always be the one-all solution but I'd start with that before spending hundreds on other solutions.

 
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