does a capacitor really harm more than do good?

[M@nJo 10+ year member]

as much as everyone hates capacitors, im thinking about getting a 1 farad specifically to reduce light dimming and voltage drops. but my question is that will my electrical system (particually the alternator) only strain more by letting more "juice" get to my amps?

a 1 farad cap is about $70 away from a yellow top, should i invest to that instead? or a red top since it'll be replacing the hood battery

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[revrider1 5,000+ posts]

Caps have never helped me with light dimming. Instead I just upgraded my battery and did the big 3 .

 

[stones 10+ year member]

Start with a battery and the big three wire upgrade.

You don't nessesarly need to shell out the extra cash for an Optima battery, many other manufacturers are using the same dry sealed technology that works the same. Exide orbital is one example of a company that uses the same technology and can be found for very reasonable prices at places like Wal-Mart.

Here is some info on battery types-

1. We must think safety when we are working around and with batteries. Remove all jewelry. After all you don't want to melt your watchband while you are wearing the watch. The hydrogen gas that batteries make when charging is very explosive. I have had 2 batteries blow up and drench me in sulfuric acid. That is no fun. This is a good time to use those safety goggles that are hanging on the wall. Sulfuric Acid eats up clothing and you may want to select Polyester clothing to wear, as it is naturally acid resistant. I just wear junk clothes, after all Polyester is so out of style. When doing electrical work on vehicles it is best to disconnect the ground cable. Just remember you are messing with corrosive acid, explosive gases and 100's amps of electrical current.

2. Basically there are two types of batteries; starting (cranking), and deep cycle (marine/golf cart). The starting battery (SLI starting lights ignition) is designed to deliver quick bursts of energy (such as starting engines) and have a greater plate count. The plates will also be thinner and have somewhat different material composition. The deep cycle battery has less instant energy but greater long-term energy delivery. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates and can survive a number of discharge cycles. Starting batteries should not be used for deep cycle applications. The so-called Dual Purpose Battery is only a compromise between the 2 types of batteries.

3. Wet Cell (flooded), Gel Cell, and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) are various versions of the lead acid battery. The wet cell comes in 2 styles; serviceable, and maintenance free. Both are filled with electrolyte and I prefer one that I can add water to and check the specific gravity of the electrolyte with a hydrometer. The Gel Cell and the AGM batteries are specialty batteries that typically cost twice as much as a premium wet cell. However they store very well and do not tend to sulfate or degrade as easily or as easily as wet cell. There is little chance of a hydrogen gas explosion or corrosion when using these batteries; these are the safest lead acid batteries you can use. Gel Cell and some AGM batteries may require a special charging rate. I personally feel that careful consideration should be given to the AGM battery technology for applications such as Marine, RV, Solar, Audio, Power Sports and Stand-By Power just to name a few. If you don't use or operate your equipment daily; this can lead premature battery failure; or depend on top-notch battery performance then spend the extra money. Gel Cell batteries still are being sold but the AGM batteries are replacing them in most applications. There is a little confusion about AGM batteries because different manufactures call them different names; some of the popular ones are sealed regulated valve, dry cell, non-spillable, and sealed lead acid batteries. In most cases AGM batteries will give greater life span and greater cycle life than a wet cell battery.

SPECIAL NOTE about Gel Batteries: It is very common for individuals to use the term GEL CELL when referring to sealed, maintenance free batteries, much like one would use Kleenex when referring to facial tissue or "Xerox machine" when referring to a copy machine. Be very careful when specifying a battery charger, many times we are told by customer they are requiring a charger for a Gel Cell battery and in fact the battery is not a Gel Cell.

AGM-(this is the type Optima makes) The Absorbed Glass Matt construction allows the electrolyte to be suspended in close proximity with the plateÕs active material. In theory, this enhances both the discharge and recharge efficiency. Actually, the AGM batteries are a variant of Sealed VRLA batteries. Popular usage high performance engine starting, power sports, deep cycle, solar and storage battery. The AGM batteries we sell are typically good deep cycle batteries and they deliver best life performance if recharged before the battery drops below the 50 percent discharge rate. If these AGM batteries are discharged to a rate of 100 percent the cycle life will be 300 plus cycles and this is true of most AGM batteries rated as deep cycle batteries.

GEL: The gel cell is similar to the AGM style because the electrolyte is suspended, but different because technically the AGM battery is still considered to be a wet cell. The electrolyte in a GEL cell has a silica additive that causes it to set up or stiffen. The recharge voltages on this type of cell are lower than the other styles of lead acid battery. This is probably the most sensitive cell in terms of adverse reactions to over-voltage charging. Gel Batteries are best used in VERY DEEP cycle application and may last a bit longer in hot weather applications. If the incorrect battery charger is used on a Gel Cell battery poor performance and premature failure is certain.

4. CCA, CA, AH and RC what are these all about? Well these are the standards that most battery companies use to rate the output and capacity of a battery.

Cold cranking amps (CCA) is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 ° F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. So a high CCA battery rating is good especially in cold weather.

CA is cranking amps measured at 32 degrees F. This rating is also called marine cranking amps (MCA). Hot cranking amps (HCA) is seldom used any longer but is measured at 80 ° F.

Reserve Capacity (RC) is a very important rating. This is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 ° F will discharge 25 amps until the battery drops below 10.5 volts.

An amp hour (AH) is a rating usually found on deep cycle batteries. If a battery is rated at 100 amp hours it should deliver 5 amps for 20 hours, 20 amps for 5 hours, etc.

5. Battery Maintenance is an important issue. The battery should be cleaned using a baking soda and water mix; a couple of table spoons to a pint of water. Cable connection needs to be clean and tightened. Many battery problems are caused by dirty and loose connections. A serviceable battery needs to have the fluid level checked. Use only mineral free water. Distilled water is best. Don't overfill battery cells especially in warmer weather. The natural fluid expansion in hot weather will push excess electrolytes from the battery. To prevent corrosion of cables on top post batteries use a small bead of silicon sealer at the base of the post and place a felt battery washer over it. Coat the washer with high temperature grease or petroleum jelly (Vaseline), then place cable on the post and tighten. Coat the exposed cable end with the grease. Most folks don't know that just the gases from the battery condensing on metal parts cause most corrosion.

6. Battery Testing can be done in more than one way. The most popular is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity buy a temperature compensating hydrometer and measure voltage, use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A good digital load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test batteries sealed batteries.

You must first have the battery fully charged. The surface charge must be removed before testing. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must experience a load of 20 amps for 3 plus minutes. Turning on the headlights (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the lights you are ready to test the battery.

 

[DaBurner 10+ year member]

Start with a battery and the big three wire upgrade.You don't nessesarly need to shell out the extra cash for an Optima battery, many other manufacturers are using the same dry sealed technology that works the same. Exide orbital is one example of a company that uses the same technology and can be found for very reasonable prices at places like Wal-Mart.

Here is some info on battery types-

1. We must think safety when we are working around and with batteries. Remove all jewelry. After all you don't want to melt your watchband while you are wearing the watch. The hydrogen gas that batteries make when charging is very explosive. I have had 2 batteries blow up and drench me in sulfuric acid. That is no fun. This is a good time to use those safety goggles that are hanging on the wall. Sulfuric Acid eats up clothing and you may want to select Polyester clothing to wear, as it is naturally acid resistant. I just wear junk clothes, after all Polyester is so out of style. When doing electrical work on vehicles it is best to disconnect the ground cable. Just remember you are messing with corrosive acid, explosive gases and 100's amps of electrical current.

2. Basically there are two types of batteries; starting (cranking), and deep cycle (marine/golf cart). The starting battery (SLI starting lights ignition) is designed to deliver quick bursts of energy (such as starting engines) and have a greater plate count. The plates will also be thinner and have somewhat different material composition. The deep cycle battery has less instant energy but greater long-term energy delivery. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates and can survive a number of discharge cycles. Starting batteries should not be used for deep cycle applications. The so-called Dual Purpose Battery is only a compromise between the 2 types of batteries.

3. Wet Cell (flooded), Gel Cell, and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) are various versions of the lead acid battery. The wet cell comes in 2 styles; serviceable, and maintenance free. Both are filled with electrolyte and I prefer one that I can add water to and check the specific gravity of the electrolyte with a hydrometer. The Gel Cell and the AGM batteries are specialty batteries that typically cost twice as much as a premium wet cell. However they store very well and do not tend to sulfate or degrade as easily or as easily as wet cell. There is little chance of a hydrogen gas explosion or corrosion when using these batteries; these are the safest lead acid batteries you can use. Gel Cell and some AGM batteries may require a special charging rate. I personally feel that careful consideration should be given to the AGM battery technology for applications such as Marine, RV, Solar, Audio, Power Sports and Stand-By Power just to name a few. If you don't use or operate your equipment daily; this can lead premature battery failure; or depend on top-notch battery performance then spend the extra money. Gel Cell batteries still are being sold but the AGM batteries are replacing them in most applications. There is a little confusion about AGM batteries because different manufactures call them different names; some of the popular ones are sealed regulated valve, dry cell, non-spillable, and sealed lead acid batteries. In most cases AGM batteries will give greater life span and greater cycle life than a wet cell battery.

SPECIAL NOTE about Gel Batteries: It is very common for individuals to use the term GEL CELL when referring to sealed, maintenance free batteries, much like one would use Kleenex when referring to facial tissue or "Xerox machine" when referring to a copy machine. Be very careful when specifying a battery charger, many times we are told by customer they are requiring a charger for a Gel Cell battery and in fact the battery is not a Gel Cell.

AGM-(this is the type Optima makes) The Absorbed Glass Matt construction allows the electrolyte to be suspended in close proximity with the plateÕs active material. In theory, this enhances both the discharge and recharge efficiency. Actually, the AGM batteries are a variant of Sealed VRLA batteries. Popular usage high performance engine starting, power sports, deep cycle, solar and storage battery. The AGM batteries we sell are typically good deep cycle batteries and they deliver best life performance if recharged before the battery drops below the 50 percent discharge rate. If these AGM batteries are discharged to a rate of 100 percent the cycle life will be 300 plus cycles and this is true of most AGM batteries rated as deep cycle batteries.

GEL: The gel cell is similar to the AGM style because the electrolyte is suspended, but different because technically the AGM battery is still considered to be a wet cell. The electrolyte in a GEL cell has a silica additive that causes it to set up or stiffen. The recharge voltages on this type of cell are lower than the other styles of lead acid battery. This is probably the most sensitive cell in terms of adverse reactions to over-voltage charging. Gel Batteries are best used in VERY DEEP cycle application and may last a bit longer in hot weather applications. If the incorrect battery charger is used on a Gel Cell battery poor performance and premature failure is certain.

4. CCA, CA, AH and RC what are these all about? Well these are the standards that most battery companies use to rate the output and capacity of a battery.

Cold cranking amps (CCA) is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 ° F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. So a high CCA battery rating is good especially in cold weather.

CA is cranking amps measured at 32 degrees F. This rating is also called marine cranking amps (MCA). Hot cranking amps (HCA) is seldom used any longer but is measured at 80 ° F.

Reserve Capacity (RC) is a very important rating. This is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 ° F will discharge 25 amps until the battery drops below 10.5 volts.

An amp hour (AH) is a rating usually found on deep cycle batteries. If a battery is rated at 100 amp hours it should deliver 5 amps for 20 hours, 20 amps for 5 hours, etc.

5. Battery Maintenance is an important issue. The battery should be cleaned using a baking soda and water mix; a couple of table spoons to a pint of water. Cable connection needs to be clean and tightened. Many battery problems are caused by dirty and loose connections. A serviceable battery needs to have the fluid level checked. Use only mineral free water. Distilled water is best. Don't overfill battery cells especially in warmer weather. The natural fluid expansion in hot weather will push excess electrolytes from the battery. To prevent corrosion of cables on top post batteries use a small bead of silicon sealer at the base of the post and place a felt battery washer over it. Coat the washer with high temperature grease or petroleum jelly (Vaseline), then place cable on the post and tighten. Coat the exposed cable end with the grease. Most folks don't know that just the gases from the battery condensing on metal parts cause most corrosion.

6. Battery Testing can be done in more than one way. The most popular is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity buy a temperature compensating hydrometer and measure voltage, use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A good digital load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test batteries sealed batteries.

You must first have the battery fully charged. The surface charge must be removed before testing. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must experience a load of 20 amps for 3 plus minutes. Turning on the headlights (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the lights you are ready to test the battery.

good to know

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

i didn't read the novel stones copied and pasted, but a cap should never be added to reduce dimming or fix a weak electrical system because they weren't designed to do that.

 

[Raisedin305 5,000+ posts]

i didn't read the novel stones copied and pasted, .

x2...Ive heard that caps can hurt in SPL

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

x2...Ive heard that caps can hurt in SPL

caps are made for sq //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

caps are made for sq //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Are you serious, Ice?

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

Are you serious, Ice?

yes

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

How, exactly, are capacitors more suited towards an SQ setup than SPL?

Nevermind.....I don't care to open that particular can of worms.

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

How, exactly, are capacitors more suited towards an SQ setup than SPL?
Nevermind.....I don't care to open that particular can of worms.

a cap stores power or current to deliver to your amp for a split second. (that's why they are not suited well for electrical problems) on the big bass notes, the cap can discharge the current for that note a lot faster then your electrical system can provide it, so therfore your huge bass notes aren't as muddy therfore improving your sq.

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

a cap stores power or current to deliver to your amp for a split second. (that's why they are not suited well for electrical problems) on the big bass notes, the cap can discharge the current for that note a lot faster then your electrical system can provide it, so therfore your huge bass notes aren't as muddy therfore improving your sq.

I'll just put it this way - I actually own a 1 farad monitor-top Stinger cap...has a nifty little neon ring around the monitor-top/power connections and LED lights that cycle one direction or the other depending on which direction current is flowing in or out of the cap. It looks pretty cool but when I had it installed I noticed no audible difference with it or without it regardless of how high the volume was.

In my personal experience they are a complete waste (and that's why I bought the bloody thing in the first place - so I would have some actual experience to draw on for this exact discussion ~ whether or not caps are worth the time, $$, and energy needed to implement them.) and allowed for no improvements in my SQ...

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

I'll just put it this way - I actually own a 1 farad monitor-top Stinger cap...has a nifty little neon ring around the monitor-top/power connections and LED lights that cycle one direction or the other depending on which direction current is flowing in or out of the cap. It looks pretty cool but when I had it installed I noticed no audible difference with it or without it regardless of how high the volume was.
In my personal experience they are a complete waste (and that's why I bought the bloody thing in the first place - so I would have some actual experience to draw on for this exact discussion ~ whether or not caps are worth the time, $$, and energy needed to implement them.) and allowed for no improvements in my SQ...

i never said they were any good, i just said they were intended to be used for sq and not electrical problems

 

[hcoronado 10+ year member]

I had a 1.5 farad cap......but when i performed the big 3 upgrade took it off because the big 3 solve alot of the issues i was having with this little tiny ass alternator i am running. But that is going to change soon!

however i have now become a firm believer that caps are not really needed!

They can and will mask irregularities in your electrical system which can lead to more problems later.

 

[joetama 5,000+ posts]

In short caps ****.