Does 12" + (5.25" x 4) = 8"?

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Midbass in kick pods, when built and aimed well, will almost always sound better than door mounted. I didn't know you were doing kicks, so I just assumed you were going door mounted. In this case, sealed kickpods will be fine and there shouldn't be a gap in frequency as you were worried about. Honestly, if you're having a pro build you kickpods, I would go with 6.5" or 7" midbasses. It's much more worth the effort.
The vast majority of mids/midbass for car audio are designed to run infinite baffle (because most people mount mids in the doors). So stuffing them in some tiny sealed enclosures in the kick panels will only serve to hurt midbass response, not help it. The only realistic ways to get good midbass out of kick panels is to port them, or go aperiodic membrane. Neither choice is easy for a beginner, nor cheap to pay a pro to tackle. This is why I usually recommend speakers that the owner expects to play down to 80hz, should be mounted in well deadened and sealed doors (infinite baffle). The path length and loudness/intensity differences caused by mounting in the doors can (mostly) be made up for with some processing.

OP, midbass is localizable (your ears can tell where the sound is coming from), so you want it to be in your front stage, in stereo. So mounting a single 8" sub in the back deck as your midbass setup would be far from ideal.

 
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