Dodge Dakota Build Log

ok so i talked to the guys at madisound. Awesome customer service!

Since they dont carry the replacement part for the tweeter, they will send me a brand new one at 1/2 price.

So total cost of my **** up is $23.xx

Make sure to check ur shit before you do what i did haha

 
Man ive been slacking.

Driving around with only 1 door pod for around 2 weeks.

Ive been tempted to ditch the tweeters in the lower pods and mount some new ones in the upper pillars but that would be quite some work to do at the moment.

heres the start of the right pod.

Went from 3 to 4 bolts to hold it nice n tight





 
Orion 2500d For Sale $400 + ship

 

My buddy is gonna hook me up with 2x sundown 1500 for a pretty good price so i need some $

 

How do you guys think my RE MT will like 2x 1500s bridged at 1 ohm final (.5 to each)?

 

Should be putting out around 35-3700 watts at that ohmage //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Woo like 1 week later and i did something finally.. fleece haha

heres some pics, took me forever to mock up a frame.

this one seems slightly different than the drivers side due to obstructions but should be far better than the last one i had in its place.

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tip for next time, use way more staples and you wont have huge wrinkles around the edges of the wood. and staple to the side\back and it works even better.

and on top of that, its better to lay fiberglass to mould that piece of the door instead of using flat wood. then just stretch the material around the fiberglass mold and glue to the back with CA glue.

just use your imagination when stretching the cloth and get it as tight as possible and the least amount of wrinkles\sag as possible //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

the door pod on the driver side ended up looking nice. glad i could help. and glad to see you stuck with it.

 
tip for next time, use way more staples and you wont have huge wrinkles around the edges of the wood. and staple to the side\back and it works even better.

and on top of that, its better to lay fiberglass to mould that piece of the door instead of using flat wood. then just stretch the material around the fiberglass mold and glue to the back with CA glue.

just use your imagination when stretching the cloth and get it as tight as possible and the least amount of wrinkles\sag as possible //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

the door pod on the driver side ended up looking nice. glad i could help. and glad to see you stuck with it.

Thanks for the insight!

I used alot more staples on the back side, i just put some on the front to keep everything in place for extra security because the material would rip easily.

I tried to get it as tight as i could without ripping it, it started to tear where i put staples:rolleyes: so i guess ill need something better next time, its very stretchy for what it is and works great though!

I slightly disagree on fiberglass mold in the door instead of wood though.

The reason i used wood because it is very rigid over a flat surface and i needed something sturdy to mount the bolts to. It saved me some time and resin this way and i cant tell much of a difference. If it was a smaller pod i might have.

I hope this one turns out just as good if not better than the drivers side //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

I was contemplating ripping off the carpet and doing vinyl or doing the whole bottom door in a way that it would blend better. where the carpet and door panel meet just doesn't look as clean as i want but i want the flexibility to remove it.

I actually glassed 1 good layer of fiberglass over it just a few hours ago so hopefully i can do another layer tonight. It seems as if im gonna run out of glass before i finish though. I have plenty of mat so i figure i can use the left over for some other project.. not sure what yet

 
on a side note how bad do you guys think my electrical will suffer

-running 2x 1500ds eventually at 1 ohm strapped (.5 each)

-orion 8004 for the time being pulling 600 watts

off of

- 130 amp stock alt

- Heavy duty stock battery

- 2 dekas

I was quoted $300 for a 200 amp alty a while back, wondering if it would be better to get 2 more dekas or just the 200 amp alt. What would help more?

 
Good news, talked to my parents, got my system insured for $3,000. Now i feel safe parking in public //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

other good news is i got my orion 2500d sold, I just pulled it out no more than an hour agao and replaced it with twisztdpunishment's saz-1500...

Im speechless:eek:

If no one were to tell me, id think the orion was still in the back...

I have no idea how these 2 amps come to sound so similar to the ear... the sundown maybe even a little bit louder. but that could just be the hype.

Im assuming that the sundown is more efficient there for allowing to keep the voltage drops to a minimum. In keeping the voltage high, it makes more power than the orion would at lets say 12 volts. Is this possible? a 1500rms amp vs a 2500rms amp?

ill have to run and check some numbers on the dmm later on to see what type of power im getting here. Im sure im clipping the hell out of it but it seems to handle the lack of electrical better than the orion.

I almost have a feeling that adding the second sundown and dropping both to a load of .5 ohms will have a negative effect on my loudness. That is untill i get the electrical for it:laugh:

Today has turned out to be a good day so far.. now if i can only get off my lazy *** to work on that door pod. It needs another 3-4 good layers before i consider mounting it.

 
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