Do these things work? & What size should I get? (XSTATIC BATCAP 2000)

[qkassidyw 10+ year member]

I have a question about batcap...
I run kill switches on my car.

one for main electrical ( car computer/starter head unit ext...)

and another for solely car stereo stuff.

and every single time I turn my engine off to let the car sit over an hour,

I disconect both kill switches.

before starting engine - I turn on kill switches,

in doing above said process, will batt cap experience any problems

being un hooked from battery power over and over?

as I have heard that caps need to be charged with a card before being able to be hooked up to its battery power of the car, as voltage levels need to be equlized or something to that effect? true or not ? - I will be constantly conecting and dis conecting its power, so is that to be a problem ?

What gauge wire are you running through those switches? If you are running anything less than four gauge then you are losing out on the potential of these. So turning on/off those switches wont do anything to the powerpack anyway.

If you are somehow running 0 gauge to these things through a switch then whenever you turn it on it will arc at its weakest point which is either the battery or your switch which will fry the switch...

 

[ssackett 10+ year member]

OP just buy a Batcap 2000 or 2 and call it a day. That's all you will need trust me. The Powerpack is interesting and I am sure it's a good product but i would rather have a couple Batcap 2000 in my truck that a capacitor and a Batcap 600...

 

[mjf 10+ year member]

What gauge wire are you running through those switches? If you are running anything less than four gauge then you are losing out on the potential of these. So turning on/off those switches wont do anything to the powerpack anyway.
If you are somehow running 0 gauge to these things through a switch then whenever you turn it on it will arc at its weakest point which is either the battery or your switch which will fry the switch...

if he was switching off the main power line, which i highly doubt, he's just switching off the remote line on the hu/s and amps and whatnot so they cant drain anything. considering the powerpak has a remote line, its meant to be turned on and off.

and no matter what gauge it is, it would still arc is its creating a complete circuit, so it doesnt matter.

 

[qkassidyw 10+ year member]

if he was switching off the main power line, which i highly doubt, he's just switching off the remote line on the hu/s and amps and whatnot so they cant drain anything. considering the powerpak has a remote line, its meant to be turned on and off.
and no matter what gauge it is, it would still arc is its creating a complete circuit, so it doesnt matter.

Ok, I didn't know they had a remote line. Then to answer his question...no it will not affect the powerpacks but his switches wont be serving their purpose by disconnecting the car audio equipment.

And yes, everything arcs but when you have 4-0 gauge wire arcing accross a switch its a little bit different then 18 gauge wire. Here is an example:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2QGdVc6MyI

 

[cf2004 10+ year member]

how do you buy these batcaps? i dont see only thing on their site about ordering. is it dealer only?

 

[krouchchocolate 10+ year member]

Could the Batcap 8400 even be used as a under the hood battery?

 

[ssackett 10+ year member]

Could the Batcap 8400 even be used as a under the hood battery?

Why would you want to?? Mount that biatch in the rear close you what ever amps your running.

 

[01 S 10 10+ year member]

Im running a Redtop up front, and 2 Batcap 2000's in my cab. with my autotek MM4000.1 and SAX100.4 at FULL TILT (w/ 200amp alt) i NEVER go below 12.5v (1,000+ rpms), 12.0v at complete idle (600-700rpms)

I highly recommend the batcaps, going from full tilt (volume 50 on my Pioneer) back to volume 1, my voltage goes from 12.5 to 14.4 in 1 second or under. thats some quick power! I cant say enough about them, only other thing i would upgrade to would be multiple Powermaster d3100's, but that would cost MUCH more.

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

Im running a Redtop up front, and 2 Batcap 2000's in my cab. with my autotek MM4000.1 and SAX100.4 at FULL TILT (w/ 200amp alt) i NEVER go below 12.5v (1,000+ rpms), 12.0v at complete idle (600-700rpms)

I highly recommend the batcaps, going from full tilt (volume 50 on my Pioneer) back to volume 1, my voltage goes from 12.5 to 14.4 in 1 second or under. thats some quick power! I cant say enough about them, only other thing i would upgrade to would be multiple Powermaster d3100's, but that would cost MUCH more.

Agreed, BatCaps are good stuff //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif...but those D3100's are pretty good too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 

[brian84corvette 10+ year member]

if he was switching off the main power line, which i highly doubt, he's just switching off the remote line on the hu/s and amps and whatnot so they cant drain anything. considering the powerpak has a remote line, its meant to be turned on and off.
and no matter what gauge it is, it would still arc is its creating a complete circuit, so it doesnt matter.

No no - I realley mean I have a kill switch to my everything electrical in my car.

when both switches are turned off, there is absolutely nothing hooked to battery positive.

I was questioning the repeated use of a kill switch, hooked up to battery positive - leading back to a batt cap if I was to get one. - would that be a problem?

having the ability to turn off every single piece of electrical hardware in my car gives me piece of mind at night, ( like if any one was to jack my system )

my car would not burn down to the ground,

or in case of emergency fire or something crazy like that,

I have ability to turn electrical power off for my entire car = factory computer and all. - also prevents electrical drains from my 1984 gm piece of crap.