Distribution block location question when wiring 2 amps

txjeep

CarAudio.com Newbie
24
8
Texas
I am wiring two amps in my jeep.
AMP 1: 250 Watts RMS for single sub
AMP 2: 800 Watts RMS for 6 speakers on 6 channel amp

I know I need an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible and this will run on a 200A fuse on O gauge wire.

I will enter a fused distribution box exiting on 4 gauge with 120A to Amp 2 and 8 gauge with 50A on Amp 1. The front channel output wattage on the 6 channel amp exceeds the RMS spec of my speakers, but I'm an adult and this isn't for volume competition.

My question is: Where do I place the power distribution box? Can it be immediately after the inline fuse in the engine compartment, or should it be in the cab?

Thanks for your help.
 
I am wiring two amps in my jeep.
AMP 1: 250 Watts RMS for single sub
AMP 2: 800 Watts RMS for 6 speakers on 6 channel amp

I know I need an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible and this will run on a 200A fuse on O gauge wire.

I will enter a fused distribution box exiting on 4 gauge with 120A to Amp 2 and 8 gauge with 50A on Amp 1. The front channel output wattage on the 6 channel amp exceeds the RMS spec of my speakers, but I'm an adult and this isn't for volume competition.

My question is: Where do I place the power distribution box? Can it be immediately after the inline fuse in the engine compartment, or should it be in the cab?

Thanks for your help.
Put it close to your amps...you want the smaller gauge wires to be short
 
I am wiring two amps in my jeep.
AMP 1: 250 Watts RMS for single sub
AMP 2: 800 Watts RMS for 6 speakers on 6 channel amp

I know I need an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible and this will run on a 200A fuse on O gauge wire.

I will enter a fused distribution box exiting on 4 gauge with 120A to Amp 2 and 8 gauge with 50A on Amp 1. The front channel output wattage on the 6 channel amp exceeds the RMS spec of my speakers, but I'm an adult and this isn't for volume competition.

My question is: Where do I place the power distribution box? Can it be immediately after the inline fuse in the engine compartment, or should it be in the cab?

Thanks for your help.
One fuse or breaker18" from the battery for rated current for the wire (as the one next to the battery is designed to protect against fire) and if you want additional protection for the amplifiers (recommended), within 12"-18" of the amplifier. May want to consider just getting a 2 way distro block with built in fusing if the amps are mounted next to one another.

Amazon product ASIN B097T5T1TB
Principle is the same either way.
 
One fuse or breaker18" from the battery for rated current for the wire (as the one next to the battery is designed to protect against fire) and if you want additional protection for the amplifiers (recommended), within 12"-18" of the amplifier. May want to consider just getting a 2 way distro block with built in fusing if the amps are mounted next to one another.

Amazon product ASIN B097T5T1TB
Principle is the same either way.
Yes, that is what I am doing. Thanks for the help
 
The front channel output wattage on the 6 channel amp exceeds the RMS spec of my speakers, but I'm an adult and this isn't for volume competition.
Here is how you set your gains correctly to your desired wattage:

Uhhhh hmmmm (an adult is going to put in the effort so you CAN go for volume competition, if you wanted to). 😃

I know your speakers are quite a bit different for wattage. Here is what I would suggest to you.
BUY AN AMP THAT LETS YOU SEPARATELY ADJUST YOUR GAINS, if you're going to use a 6 ch amp. Personally, I would rather use two amps, not only because you can adjust it correctly for your speakers, but 6ch is going to cost more than two smaller amps, and I hope you have already figured out where a larger 6ch amp is going to fit. You just buy 3 way blocks, and that's the only difference. If you have a different amp already or access to one, I would hook up your higher wattage 6x9s, and see how loud they can get off ~rated voltage +10%. You're going to see how much louder they COULD get if you give em enough power.

(Kenwood excelon head unit, set your gains with your head unit on 34 out of 35, that SHOULD BE where your rated voltage is, based on my other 2 kenwoods (think i said this already).
 
Here is how you set your gains correctly to your desired wattage:

Uhhhh hmmmm (an adult is going to put in the effort so you CAN go for volume competition, if you wanted to). 😃

I know your speakers are quite a bit different for wattage. Here is what I would suggest to you.
BUY AN AMP THAT LETS YOU SEPARATELY ADJUST YOUR GAINS, if you're going to use a 6 ch amp. Personally, I would rather use two amps, not only because you can adjust it correctly for your speakers, but 6ch is going to cost more than two smaller amps, and I hope you have already figured out where a larger 6ch amp is going to fit. You just buy 3 way blocks, and that's the only difference. If you have a different amp already or access to one, I would hook up your higher wattage 6x9s, and see how loud they can get off ~rated voltage +10%. You're going to see how much louder they COULD get if you give em enough power.

(Kenwood excelon head unit, set your gains with your head unit on 34 out of 35, that SHOULD BE where your rated voltage is, based on my other 2 kenwoods (think i said this already).

This is certainly where my lack of experience comes in and I appreciate your input. What I was thinking was using this amp:

The plan would be to route the front channel RCA from the head unit to channels 1-4 providing 100w per channel x4 for the front speakers. Then route the rear RCA to channel 5-6 pushing 150w to the 6x9’s. I’m a bit concerned about space and I am not seeing products that would save me money with 2 amps instead of one. Happy to look at suggestions. Thanks.
 
This is certainly where my lack of experience comes in and I appreciate your input. What I was thinking was using this amp:

The plan would be to route the front channel RCA from the head unit to channels 1-4 providing 100w per channel x4 for the front speakers. Then route the rear RCA to channel 5-6 pushing 150w to the 6x9’s. I’m a bit concerned about space and I am not seeing products that would save me money with 2 amps instead of one. Happy to look at suggestions. Thanks.
That amp looks perfect for what you need. Nice job.
 
I am not sure what "Bridgeable AMPS" means in my scenario, so I do not know. The AMP itself is 4Ohms and single voice coil but I do not know what that means in your question. My assumption was that by running seperate amps they would not be realted in overall power. That would be a matter of tuning. Am I wrong?

Here is the power plan. I do not yet have distances but longes run is is battery to distribution block in step 2:
Jeep Audio Drawing - Electrical.jpeg
Kicker Amp calls for 50A inline fuse and Crescendo calls for 120A - 150A so I went lower of the two.
 
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I am not sure what "Bridgeable AMPS" means in my scenario, so I do not know. The AMP itself is 4Ohms and single voice coil but I do not know what that means in your question. My assumption was that by running seperate amps they would not be realted in overall power. That would be a matter of tuning. Am I wrong?

Here is the power plan. I do not yet have distances but longes run is is battery to distribution block in step 2:
View attachment 51885 Kicker Amp calls for 50A inline fuse and Crescendo calls for 120A - 150A so I went lower of the two.
Don't listen to Red his advice in the best case scenario will cause confusion and wasted money...or some of what he says will burn your car down 😂

That s6 should be perfect for what you're doing and give some flexibility if you ever get the itch for "more" 😁
 
I am not sure what "Bridgeable AMPS" means in my scenario, so I do not know. The AMP itself is 4Ohms and single voice coil but I do not know what that means in your question. My assumption was that by running seperate amps they would not be realted in overall power. That would be a matter of tuning. Am I wrong?

Here is the power plan. I do not yet have distances but longes run is is battery to distribution block in step 2:
View attachment 51885 Kicker Amp calls for 50A inline fuse and Crescendo calls for 120A - 150A so I went lower of the two.
Don't worry about neon red. I think most of us would put them on ignore if we weren't waiting for when they finally get stopped.

You seem to have put in more effort than most, and more knowledgeable then most, yet they still gave you a hiccup, hmmmm... (not directed at you).

Never seen anyone do that with the diagram. Cool. If I had to find something, I think your last two pictures are backwards. Looks like the big 3, but just making sure. The last picture set would be pictures swapped, and at least 1/0 ground from batt - to chassis, and a separate run from batt - to engine block.
 
Don't listen to Red his advice in the best case scenario will cause confusion and wasted money...or some of what he says will burn your car down 😂

That s6 should be perfect for what you're doing and give some flexibility if you ever get the itch for "more" 😁
Oh I've seen a truck burn to the ground. A white Silverado in Phoenix. Was under a carport and burned out three vehicles next to it too. As it was burning and several of us were standing around watching it burn, I asked the owner if he had done anything to it recently. He said, "I just replaced the battery". His wife was standing there too, and I just stayed quiet.

You've seen what they have posted. Don't put it past em. They aren't making an effort to get better. Maybe they're a psychopath and just looking for the right person to give the wrong information to on purpose. All the rest of this is just a distraction, so when that time comes it won't look intentional.

You gonna keep joking about it, and make light of it until he does? He's already said stuff that would have screwed people up, if it weren't written so badly that the person realized there was something off.
 
Don't worry about neon red. I think most of us would put them on ignore if we weren't waiting for when they finally get stopped.

You seem to have put in more effort than most, and more knowledgeable then most, yet they still gave you a hiccup, hmmmm... (not directed at you).

Never seen anyone do that with the diagram. Cool. If I had to find something, I think your last two pictures are backwards. Looks like the big 3, but just making sure. The last picture set would be pictures swapped, and at least 1/0 ground from batt - to chassis, and a separate run from batt - to engine block.
Yes, that was a shortcut.
 
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txjeep

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