difference between all the optimas?

the yellow top is specifically designed for high/extended drain purposes. I DO NOT reccomend it without a capacitor because it's discharge rate is not friendly to high current subwoofer amplifiers.

Is this true? I have never heard this or even considered a capacitor. I have appx 2300rms on my system with 200amp h/o alternator (100 at idle) and 2x yellow tops. Does anyone else think a cap would be of some benefit?

 
Well my stock alt puts out 95amps. I'm not running the 2300rms you are but I'm around 1500 and as I've stated had 0 problems. And a few other Mazda3 guys have pushed more without a CAP. And a CAP would be another thing the alt would have to charge.

 
Indeed!! Thats what i have been listening to for years and hammered into my head over and over, and the reason that I have such a beefy and proper electrical system. Just a bit odd to read the comment about using capacitor specifically with yellow tops as they "fry the alternator" as mentioned by xtremebassjunky and "its discharge rate is not friendly to high current amplifiers" as mentioned by radioflyer97. Not encouraging things to hear.

 
Indeed!! Thats what i have been listening to for years and hammered into my head over and over, and the reason that I have such a beefy and proper electrical system. Just a bit odd to read the comment about using capacitor specifically with yellow tops as they "fry the alternator" as mentioned by xtremebassjunky and "its discharge rate is not friendly to high current amplifiers" as mentioned by radioflyer97. Not encouraging things to hear.
I have only seen the alternator frying issue with gm vehicles.

like I said, I don't remember the exact details...but it has to do with startup with a yellowtop and characteristics of yellowtops...

 
I am looking at getting a Yellow Top also, especially since I know I need a larger battery then the stock Nissan one. I have a capacitor already anyways.

Should I be fine? HO alternator necessary for running a measly 8-900 wrms?

 
I have only seen the alternator frying issue with gm vehicles.
like I said, I don't remember the exact details...but it has to do with startup with a yellowtop and characteristics of yellowtops...
well, technically my boat engine is a gm vechile. Yamaha sterndrive with 350 block. As i have not had any problems to date, i do not think i am going to worry about it. Unlike many electrics on a car, besides for the 2300rms that my alternator powers there are few other electronics. A few cabin lights which are rarely used, digital gauges and power trim. My original alternator was only 50amp so that indicates what a light load the boat itself actually puts on the alt.

i think i am just fine with my 200amp alt, 2 yellow tops and "big 3"

 
It depends on the application. Contrary to what others in this thread have said Optimas have a very low internal resistance...making them Excellent at supplying a quick burst of power...Why do you think many of the Top SPL competitors use G31 Yellow Tops.

And that is another thing. There are several different sizes of both Optima and Kinetik. So don't compare a G34 Yellow Top to a kinetik 2400. They arent even close to the same.

Kinetik has a slightly higher AH and RC rating than the optima making the Kinetik a slightly better choice for a "daily SPL battery" Where as the low internal resistance of the G31 YellowTop's makes them an Excellent "SPL Burp Battery"

And now to address the Burning up alternators? Never heard it man. I have a 250 amp HO alt and a Yellow Top under the hood. Could you explain to me why my alternator will Fry?

and Yes I do have a 2004 Chevy Silverado. And Also I ran the yellow top with the stock alt for about 6-8 Months.

 
It depends on the application. Contrary to what others in this thread have said Optimas have a very low internal resistance...making them Excellent at supplying a quick burst of power...Why do you think many of the Top SPL competitors use G31 Yellow Tops.
And that is another thing. There are several different sizes of both Optima and Kinetik. So don't compare a G34 Yellow Top to a kinetik 2400. They arent even close to the same.

Kinetik has a slightly higher AH and RC rating than the optima making the Kinetik a slightly better choice for a "daily SPL battery" Where as the low internal resistance of the G31 YellowTop's makes them an Excellent "SPL Burp Battery"

And now to address the Burning up alternators? Never heard it man. I have a 250 amp HO alt and a Yellow Top under the hood. Could you explain to me why my alternator will Fry?

and Yes I do have a 2004 Chevy Silverado. And Also I ran the yellow top with the stock alt for about 6-8 Months.

I was justing pointing out that it is something I have heard before.

I haven't talked to the guy who explained it to me, in a while.

I will have to call him up.

I will have to look it up.

It could be wrong or could be right, I don't know...never had a yellow top under the hood.

I have a 96 Jimmy, and it came up when I was talking to the guy about getting a new battery.

 
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