Diff bewteen A/B and class D amps.

[ConwayBang 10+ year member]

What are the main diff in a class d and class a/b. I no that insides r probaly different but im wondering if its gonna sound diff to the ear and so on

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[Jh8909 10+ year member]

Class A/B: less efficent. takes more electrical to get the wattage up. clean power, low distortion levels.

Class D: more efficient. distortion level raises.

 

[mossberg385t 10+ year member]

Class A/B: less efficent. takes more electrical to get the wattage up. clean power, low distortion levels. Class D: more efficient. distortion level raises.

pretty much hits the nail on the head go for A/B if your setting your system up for SQ, D for SPL

 

[ConwayBang 10+ year member]

So on the MB quart discus 1000 which is a class a/b will it push 1000 rms on stock prolly 13V

 

[ConwayBang 10+ year member]

the discus 1500 is a class D. the 1000 bigger bro

I like sound quality but i also want 1000 real rms at 1 ohm

 

[supermaxx123 10+ year member]

So on the MB quart discus 1000 which is a class a/b will it push 1000 rms on stock prolly 13V

doubt you'll be able to pull that from an a/b on stock.

i believe a/b range from 50%-70% effiecent. Class D around 80%

Also depends on the impedance load, the lower the impedance the less efficient the amp becomes.

I have yet to hear a full range d class, but they are suppose to sound as good as a/b

 

[Jh8909 10+ year member]

doubt you'll be able to pull that from an a/b on stock. i believe a/b range from 50%-70% effiecent. Class D around 80%

Also depends on the impedance load, the lower the impedance the less efficient the amp becomes.

I have yet to hear a full range d class, but they are suppose to sound as good as a/b

^ is the key word in that sentence.

 

[ConwayBang 10+ year member]

so at 1 ohm and just say at 50% efficiancy would you say 500,600, or closer to a 1000. And how much better does the a/b class sound. Because ive had a class d and it sounded fine. Can u explain exactly what efficiancy means.

 

[mossberg385t 10+ year member]

efficiency is the energy lost to heat simply put, theres a little more to it but...

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

IIRC, Class D is more efficient at lower volume levels than Class AB. At maximum power that is one thing, but since Class AB amplifiers generally have to maintain high rail voltages due to their non switching power supplies, their efficiency goes out the window at lower listening levels.

ETA: I've heard reports of some car audio Class AB amplifiers being as inefficient as 25% to 40% at lower output levels.

 

[ConwayBang 10+ year member]

So basically the MB quart 1000 loses alot of energy because of heat espically at low volumes. Does loes of energy mean loss of rms or what?

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

efficiency is the energy lost to heat simply put, theres a little more to it but...

The subwoofer motor assembly is the biggest waster of power converting it to heat! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[ConwayBang 10+ year member]

Like i said whats lost due to the loss of energy

 

[supermaxx123 10+ year member]

IIRC, Class D is more efficient at lower volume levels than Class AB. At maximum power that is one thing, but since Class AB amplifiers generally have to maintain high rail voltages due to their non switching power supplies, their efficiency goes out the window at lower listening levels.
ETA: I've heard reports of some car audio Class AB amplifiers being as inefficient as 25% to 40% at lower output levels.

My old mtx doesn't have a switching power supply but it sounds so good, gobs up power at low listening volumes same as loud listening. most new amps have switching power supplies which increases efficiency. to explain how somthing is efficient...

take a hose- add water to one side, same amount comes out of the other. you may loose some water inside the hose but it wouldn't be more than maybe 1% from the input. the hose is 99% efficient.

Amp- it sucks up 100 amps at 13.4 volts, you would get 1340 watts out the other end "if" it was 100% efficient. energy is lost almost everywhere inside the amp. heat is the waste.

i think its safe to say that your sub is about 10% efficeint but most subs are so that does not really matter.

Its not that the mb quart wont do the 1000rms, its that it wont do 1000rms with a little bit of current. you have to be able to supply the amp with the power it needs in order for it to do the watts you want.

 

[supermaxx123 10+ year member]

Like i said whats lost due to the loss of energy

the loss of energy is natural, since your losing input energy, you would just need to supply more input energy to overcome the waste which all adds up to the facts that they use more power to make power.

I've experienced this with a 4ch running a sub and 2 speakers off of it, and running a 4ch and a 1ch. running the 2 amps was more eifficient because the 1ch needed less power to push the sub the same way the 4ch was pushing it. it really surprised me because i always thought 1 amp set-up was the better cheaper way to do it. In was running this off a 25amp power supply, running the 4 ch with 2 speakers and a sub, the power supply would be at it's peak and i wouldnt be able to push the sub all the way. When i added the second amp, i was able to push the sub to its max and the power supply was not cutting out like before.