Demo RE Audio Jeep

[InhumanAcura 5,000+ posts]

Whys that?
If I do that, I can keep the length the same, and change the internal dims to 2.5" x 15.875" (just under 40 ft^2), and then itll go all the way across the bottom, and still be tuned to 32 Hz.

look at the drawing you have, then look at one with the port all the way accross the bottom. Which one looks like it'll move air free-er

 

[automotivations 10+ year member]

You think itll make a difference, maybe with port noise some.. less interruption I guess, sounds good to me. Ill sand all the edges down on the port too, Im getting the entire outside of the box sprayed with speedliner (bedliner) and it seals up nicely, and only $50 and takes about 5 minutes to spray (I love this stuff).

 

[automotivations 10+ year member]

Okay, I think this is it. Im going to Lowe's today to get some mdf and stuff. What's the best, or easiest, way to make some cushions for this seat? I was thinking of just getting something thats close to same color as my seats, but its gotta be somewhat durable, and wrapping it over some foam, but dont know how I want to attach it to the box yet.

shot of the front of box w/o the front piece

this is a section shot of the side

this is a section shot of the back

 

[tRiGgEr 5,000+ posts]

I like that program. Looks good. remember to post pics of the build and finished product.

 

[automotivations 10+ year member]

Will do

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

i really hope you decide to brace the 'seat' area. its going to break rather quickly with your weight + internal pressure while only using 3\4" mdf my friend.

 

[automotivations 10+ year member]

I highly doubt it, the piece that separates the chambers along with the sides and the ports act as braces. Are you talking about compressive forces or lateral forces? Ive worked with 3/4" mdf for the last six years, and the screws and adhesive will do more than enough, not to mention the bedliner that will cover the entire exterior of the box. But thank you for your concerns...

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

i mean the fact that thats going to be a huge box, the car is going to be going over bumps, and my 200lb 6'2" *** sitting on it while its pumping at 2.6kw with only 1 internal brace is kind of daunting. imagine 2 people sitting on it.

screws arent that stRong. neither is wood glue.

the box might stay together on its own - but lateral and verticle forces created by the car going round corners, and the weight of the passangers PLUS the compressive forces of two ****ing XXX's arent going to make those seams happy.

 

[automotivations 10+ year member]

Well I have the lateral (horizontal) forces taken care of, b/c the box sits snug in b/w my rear fender wells. As far as compressive (vertical) forces go, I think it will be okay as well, but if it will make you happy, I will add some braces for you... if there is any wood left over, which there always is. Let me know when youre coming into town so we can test it out.

 

[automotivations 10+ year member]

Quick question: Any suggestions on sub protection (cover of some sort)? I dont want people jumping in and out of my jeep to destroy them.

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

id prolly make somthing out of 1\2" plexiglass - and offset it from the box with some nice 1\4" aluminum rod

but i would prolly invert them for a 'show' install.

then theres no need for cone protection.. but you gotta worry about people taking wires out and shit. so maybe solder them?

 

[automotivations 10+ year member]

Invert would be cool, gain some air space too. Is it okay to mount sub like that, facing straight down? Ive seen it done in installs before, just never done it myself.

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

Invert would be cool, gain some air space too. Is it okay to mount sub like that, facing straight down? Ive seen it done in installs before, just never done it myself.

yea, no problems - just reverse the polairty (or phase) of the subs. + goes to - and vice versa. otherwise they will hit on the 'off beat' or whatever. and you will gain like .3 cubes too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

but on a side note...

Let me know when youre coming into town so we can test it out.

was that supposed to be sarcasm? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

yea, no problems - just reverse the polairty (or phase) of the subs. + goes to - and vice versa.

Don't necessarily need to reverse the polarity. You should actually try their polarity both ways (reversed and normal) and see which one integrates them with the rest of the stereo the best. There is no "set" polarity that they need to be wired to.

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

Don't necessarily need to reverse the polarity. You should actually try their polarity both ways (reversed and normal) and see which one integrates them with the rest of the stereo the best. There is no "set" polarity that they need to be wired to.

ive never had any problems with always going +

but its much eaiser to play with in a inversed install anway.

da*mn you squeak //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif