Deaden doors even with woofer?

[Gonzalez1988]

So i just bought some new components (Pioneer ts-d1720c) and wondering if i should deaden my doors, i ask this because i am not using much bass if any from the components since i have a sub so is it still a good idea to deaden the doors? I really rather skip that process but also want to get the most out of these components.

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[Innovative:Cory 10+ year member]

Yes... if you are going to use aftermarket drivers in a factory location, you should add deadner. If not just keep to the factory speakers.

 

[Gonzalez1988]

Wow its that important that its not even worth me installing the new speakers unless i use the deadener?

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

deadener is less important than recreating all of the factory seals. you will notice that the factory speaker, while cheap, has foam seals on both sides of the basket. one seal is obvious, seal to the metal and use something soft and thick to prevent rattles. the second one is neglected and vital to success - the seal between the front of the woofer to the door panel/grill. if you do one thing, it should be weatherstripping foam around front and rear to seal to the door and the door panel.

beyond that, some deadener will help with resonance.

some bags of fiberglass in the door cavity will help with midrange clarity by absorbing sound inside the door (like putting fill inside a speaker box).

beyond that, sealing the door holes will take a step to give you more midbass response.

regardless if you have a sub, your speakers are what provide bass definition by supporting the bass line harmonics that we hear. if you want music that sounds good, the front speakers are the most important part and should have the most time spent.

 

[OldManBass]

deadener is less important than recreating all of the factory seals. you will notice that the factory speaker, while cheap, has foam seals on both sides of the basket. one seal is obvious, seal to the metal and use something soft and thick to prevent rattles. the second one is neglected and vital to success - the seal between the front of the woofer to the door panel/grill. if you do one thing, it should be weatherstripping foam around front and rear to seal to the door and the door panel.
beyond that, some deadener will help with resonance.

some bags of fiberglass in the door cavity will help with midrange clarity by absorbing sound inside the door (like putting fill inside a speaker box).

beyond that, sealing the door holes will take a step to give you more midbass response.

regardless if you have a sub, your speakers are what provide bass definition by supporting the bass line harmonics that we hear. if you want music that sounds good, the front speakers are the most important part and should have the most time spent.

Listen to this guy, he knows what he is talking about. That said... he is talking bare minimum. I'd head over to the sound deadener showdown page, do some research, and decide what to do from there.

Installation is a HUGE part of the equation of how your new comps are going to sound. Do it as well as your budget allows... it will cost you once... but your ears will enjoy the results every time you listen to them!

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

yep. lastly, tweeter placement is also very important. too low and the sound will be low. moving them up to the apillars or dash can help raise the soundstage. aiming is crucial as moving tweeters higher results in more reflections and, in general, reflections are bad. some will aim tweeters at the windshield for all indirect sound - it can work in some instances. just experiment with velcro/tape before you permanently mount the tweeters (do this after the woofers are installed).

crossover location depends on several factors. only put then on the door (dry area just behind the panel) if both woofer and tweeter are on the door (i.e. tweeter in the sail panel).

if the tweeter is on the dash/apillar then locating the crossovers in the cabin is a good idea. you can reuse the factory woofer wiring but you will need new wire for the tweeter. some crossovers require access to adjust level/settings. keep that in mind. a glove box can work well if sized right. or under the seats, or under the dash, etc.

 

[Gonzalez1988]

Well the speakers actually came with seperate wiring for the tweeters and im going to mount the tweeters by the door handle about a foot up from the woofer which is at the bottom of the door panel. Im sorry for the noob questions but i really appreciate the help i wish i could just buy the stuff and pay you to do my install since you know so much. Also is some dynamat good? Im just gonna do the front doors.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

try moving the tweeters to the dash. i have never been happy with tweeters that low in a door. at a minimum, move them to the sail panels.

yes dynamat or similar products are great for improving front speaker sound. i just did a van with 8 sq. ft. per door.

 

[jar1zx 10+ year member]

Is there a fiberglass substitute? That stuff breaks me out. When I was a kid my dad used to build houses and when it came time to run fiberglass...... Well after 1st time I made sure I was long gone lol. I have seen people use it in doors and I can see how that would help

On tweeters I've found I like to place them higher than dash then aim them say driver side tweeter aimed straight at passenger same with right side tweeter aimed straight at driver, kinda in a X. I do the same with rear (4 door truck) for me this has worked better than in door

 

[Gonzalez1988]

try moving the tweeters to the dash. i have never been happy with tweeters that low in a door. at a minimum, move them to the sail panels.
yes dynamat or similar products are great for improving front speaker sound. i just did a van with 8 sq. ft. per door.

Dynamat 10435 12" x 36" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Door Kit:Amazon:Automotive

Just ordered this from Amazon for my front doors hope it gets here quick because i wanna install my components already. Was this dynamat kit a good buy? It was expensive (half the price of my components) but the reviews are overwhelmingly good on it so i found it hard to pass up. For what its worth the vehicle involved is a 1999 Toyota Corolla.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Is there a fiberglass substitute? That stuff breaks me out. When I was a kid my dad used to build houses and when it came time to run fiberglass...... Well after 1st time I made sure I was long gone lol. I have seen people use it in doors and I can see how that would help
On tweeters I've found I like to place them higher than dash then aim them say driver side tweeter aimed straight at passenger same with right side tweeter aimed straight at driver, kinda in a X. I do the same with rear (4 door truck) for me this has worked better than in door

yes, there is a fiberglass substitute, and readily available at hardware stores

48 in. x 75 in. UltraTouch Denim Insulation Hot Water Heater Blanket-60301-48752 at The Home Depot

you can get it in a foil wrap like this water heater blanket, or in it's raw form. it's recycled denim and has great sound absorption properties.

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

Dynamat 10435 12" x 36" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Door Kit:Amazon:Automotive
Just ordered this from Amazon for my front doors hope it gets here quick because i wanna install my components already. Was this dynamat kit a good buy? It was expensive (half the price of my components) but the reviews are overwhelmingly good on it so i found it hard to pass up. For what its worth the vehicle involved is a 1999 Toyota Corolla.[/quote

cancelandgetaudiotechnixthatsonsale

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

Dynamat 10435 12" x 36" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Door Kit:Amazon:Automotive
Just ordered this from Amazon for my front doors hope it gets here quick because i wanna install my components already. Was this dynamat kit a good buy? It was expensive (half the price of my components) but the reviews are overwhelmingly good on it so i found it hard to pass up. For what its worth the vehicle involved is a 1999 Toyota Corolla.

sorry cancel that order and get

40 Sq ft Audio Technix 60 Mil Sound Deadener Heat Shield Square Feet | eBay

for a couple bucks more you go from 12 sqft of deadenr to 40

 

[Gonzalez1988]

sorry cancel that order and get40 Sq ft Audio Technix 60 Mil Sound Deadener Heat Shield Square Feet | eBay

for a couple bucks more you go from 12 sqft of deadenr to 40

Why are the reviews so high on it? It cant be that bad BESIDES the price. Btw the amount that comes in the kit i ordered is plenty for my doors, i dont need any extra it'll be just sitting around. I dont intend to go nuts with the stuff in this particular car.

 

[Milk Mayne 10+ year member]

yep. lastly, tweeter placement is also very important. too low and the sound will be low. moving them up to the apillars or dash can help raise the soundstage. aiming is crucial as moving tweeters higher results in more reflections and, in general, reflections are bad. some will aim tweeters at the windshield for all indirect sound - it can work in some instances. just experiment with velcro/tape before you permanently mount the tweeters (do this after the woofers are installed).

You know, in all my installs, I have always neglected the front seal of my mids. I never thought about that before, but it totally makes sense. I've always got weatherstripping, that's something I'm definitely going to do either tonight or this week. Thanks for bringing that to light. You sir, are truly one of the more valuable assets to this board.