damaging speakers

wilzyx
5,000+ posts

village idiot/racist
can you damage your mids/tweets by not crossing them at all and haveing them play the whole spectrum or will it just not sound good? and what is the difference between a shielded/non shielded tweeter? i was thinking of puttin together a comp set of dayton 6.5" shielded woofers/dayton 1" euro tweeter but dont have enough money to get a crossover for a while.

 
I don't think it would be good to run tweets full range. Not to knowledgable on the newer tweets. But older tweets will fry trying to reproduce low frequencies //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
can you damage your mids/tweets by not crossing them at all and haveing them play the whole spectrum or will it just not sound good?
Depends.

Running a tweeter full range will damage it relatively quickly if played at any kind of reasonable volume.

Mids don't necessarily need to be lowpassed, but the resulting sound may not be too pleasant. And the inductance of the speaker will create a natural high-frequency roll-off of the frequency response.

Mids don't necessarily need to be highpassed, but their mechanical power handling will be diminished and trying to play them at a loud volume may result in damage.

and what is the difference between a shielded/non shielded tweeter?
Shielded tweeters have a "bucking magnet" (aka "shield"), which basically counteracts any stray magnet field emitted from the speaker's magnet, allowing it to be placed close to monitors, TV's, etc.

If you place an unshielded speaker close to a TV or computer monitor, the speaker's magnetic field will screw up the picture. Adding a "shield" (basically a magnet out of polarity with the speaker's magnet) allows this to not be as much of a problem, since the two magnetic fields effectivley cancel each other out.

 
If you don't have enough money for a crossover...go active //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Actually, unless you already have 4 channels of amplification to use, it would probably be more expensive. Rolling your own Xovers doesn't cost too much in the way of parts, it's the design that takes most of the work.

 
well i dont have enough money for a decent head unit either //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif so am i kinda screwed till i get money or what? and jack frost the amp im gonna be using will probably be the orion 7005, and for the subs 2 kicker 05c124's. and i was just lookin around at parts express and should i get an electronic crossover or an inline crossover?

 
and also building my own x-over sounds interesting, but how much time/money would it take and is it like if i mess up soldering one time the whole thing is screwed? cuz i dont trust myself at all if its like that.

 
If you mess up soldering a joint, you simply clean it off and try again //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif The construction of it is easy; pay someone to do the design for you as that's a challenge to get right.

 
oh wow, i was just readin the specs over again for the orion 7005 amp and it says it has fully active crossovers, does this mean i can just ditch the external crossovers and are x-overs on all 5 channels on the amp?

 
oh wow, i was just readin the specs over again for the orion 7005 amp and it says it has fully active crossovers, does this mean i can just ditch the external crossovers and are x-overs on all 5 channels on the amp?

Depends.

An "active" crossover is just a crossover that comes prior to amplification. Only way you could use it is if it allows for the crossover points that you need.

 
ok so order the amp first and if it doesnt have what i need then ill order the x-overs, and did you click the links? im a nub at crossovers and need to know if those will work

 
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wilzyx

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