Covering or sealing outer door holes

Alrojoca
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I MEANT TO SAY INNER DOOR HOLES, SORRY!

I know there are different ways to cover holes.

1. Sheet metal screws and sound deadening over it. Cheaper but heavier.

2.Aluminum sheet, same as above, cost more and it's lighter but, galvanic rust mixing 2 metals will take place.

3. Acrylic or lexan type, light, as good as above, cost is not an issue using a similar non breakable material, just need to use the right glue or sound deadening over it like in all cases.

4. 1/8 inch wood, glue and sound deadening CLD type, problem is it needs to be treated painted and may not last many years.

This is my idea, I know I'm being lacy. I need to cover a 5x9 and a smaller hole. Assuming I figure a way to glue it to some closed cell foam

How about using 1/8 MLV ( 1 lb per sqf dense) to cover a small hole? Will it work as good if glued properly should I put CLD on both sides or just one to make it work better? The good thing is, it is flexible and the sound deadening may help it stick/ glue to metal glued foam on the door.

Convince me not to use MLV please or wood, I'm just lacy to cut metal right now.

Thanks

 
Is the hole on the door itself (rust underneath the panel) or is it on the plastic panel?

You could use corrugated plastic that you can pick up at any hobby or DIY hardware store. Flexible, easy to shape, fairly cheap. Then use some thick,dry caulk, or Bondo (or silicone if u want a flexible bond) for the bond. Paint it if u don't want an ugly door. I made a whole door panel myself and patch my other panel out of corrugated plastic.

If it is on the sheet metal, then use fiberglass !! Do it right, and it'll out last all the metal on your car. Don't get a sheet, get the actual wet fiberglass that you apply with a brush.

If I had more information on the hole location or type, I might be able to help more.

 
Is the hole on the door itself (rust underneath the panel) or is it on the plastic panel?
You could use corrugated plastic that you can pick up at any hobby or DIY hardware store. Flexible, easy to shape, fairly cheap. Then use some thick,dry caulk, or Bondo (or silicone if u want a flexible bond) for the bond. Paint it if u don't want an ugly door. I made a whole door panel myself and patch my other panel out of corrugated plastic.

If it is on the sheet metal, then use fiberglass !! Do it right, and it'll out last all the metal on your car. Don't get a sheet, get the actual wet fiberglass that you apply with a brush.

If I had more information on the hole location or type, I might be able to help more.
Okay thanks, I agree fiberglass will be the best way to close a metal hole. The holes I'm dealing with are less than 5 inches long and maybe 3.5" wide.my skills with fiberglass are not good, I would need to watch YouTube videos to learn better.

MLV is a bit flexible 1/8 And it is 1lb per square foot dense, it is designed to block sound, not commonly used on vertical surfaces but it has been used successfully, usually installed on car floors after putting a 1/4 " layer of speciall foam used on gym exercise mats.

I figured I could try to reinforce the vinyl with alpha mat or Dynamat and bond it to the metal. Thanks for posting a better option, just thought of this new possibility to use left over material and kind of being lacy at the same time or keep things simple and less time consumming

 
Whichever way is easiest for you. Remember, once you apply fiberglass its hard to remove, so start with the project that would be easier to clean up if you make a mistake. And make sure any bonding material you use wont chemically react with the paint and cause discoloration or a failed result. I made that mistake one time...

 
Good Point, yes. Im not sure I want a permanent seal, I would like to have the option to remove it if any repairs need to be made.

This is off topic but it is still related to inner holes, I have noticed many people cut the plastic or hard foam parts of the card or door panel. I have heard those areas that go inserted in the inner door metal hold the glass in place if the window is all the way down. Some keep it some just cut it off. Pictures to show what I am talking about. As shown the plastic area and the door with a plastic barrier showing the hole where it goes inserted. Will I be okay if I cut this plastic area to be able to seal the whole hole?

Thanks

 
whatever you use to close the hole should be removable. those holes are for repair access.

the material should seal to the opening, so when using aluminum or sheet metal use some foam weatherstripping (resolves the galvanic issue).

I use wood but have to waterproof it, i recently used 3/4" birch wrapped in CCF.

the goal is to increase rigidity as well as sealing the opening. MLV can create a seal but won't be a rigid opening. it will react to midbass and can cause phase interference - acting like a second speaker diaphragm or passive radiator.

 
yes, when you seal the hole you need to remove some pieces on the door panel that would normally extend into the door cavity. sometimes they will help support the window. you can move those pieces to the panel you cover the holes with to retain the same support.

 
whatever you use to close the hole should be removable. those holes are for repair access.
the material should seal to the opening, so when using aluminum or sheet metal use some foam weatherstripping (resolves the galvanic issue).

I use wood but have to waterproof it, i recently used 3/4" birch wrapped in CCF.

the goal is to increase rigidity as well as sealing the opening. MLV can create a seal but won't be a rigid opening. it will react to midbass and can cause phase interference - acting like a second speaker diaphragm or passive radiator.

Thanks a lot ! And MLV is heavier than everything maybe even MDF. I heard of water proofing wood or MDF using fiberglass Resin, is this the way you recommend it? can Good paint may do the trick? CCF? there are so many types, PVC, AVA, MBR, TPE, I think Ensolite is basically Neoprene and does not compress as much, PVC, the most common one does compress the most, almost water proof, and mold resistant like most CCF's, but still being closed cell foam, wouldn't it block sound more than absorb it?

I know, but you are the engineer here and we hear all kinds of different opinions on CCF's and what they do. Thanks again!

yes, when you seal the hole you need to remove some pieces on the door panel that would normally extend into the door cavity. sometimes they will help support the window. you can move those pieces to the panel you cover the holes with to retain the same support.
Great advice and TiP! I appreciate it! If can screw that piece great if not, will some good plastic glue or liquid nails hold it?

 
when I use wood, it's thicker, like 1/2" or 3/4". i take the opportunity to increase rigidity while closing a hole.

CCF = closed cell foam. air/water doesn't penetrate it.

CCF doesn't block really sound nor does it absorb it. it is only really useful for preventing rattles and making seals.

from my build logs you can see what i do to doors, including absorption in the cavity. best absorbers are fibrous, like fiberglass insulation.

 
when I use wood, it's thicker, like 1/2" or 3/4". i take the opportunity to increase rigidity while closing a hole.
CCF = closed cell foam. air/water doesn't penetrate it.

CCF doesn't block really sound nor does it absorb it. it is only really useful for preventing rattles and making seals.

from my build logs you can see what i do to doors, including absorption in the cavity. best absorbers are fibrous, like fiberglass insulation.
Great information, thanks.

 
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Alrojoca

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