Considering 6.5" IB subs in place of boxed 10" sub. Thoughts?

[phenryiv1 10+ year member]

Future tuning will tell me a lot, but I am not blown away by my current sub, an IDQ 10.

I am CONSIDERING yanking the rear 6.5" (stock) coaxials and using 2 6.5" IB subs or even a good set of 6.5" mids and deleting the sub/box combo altogether.

I heard an Explorer with a set of well-installed and well-tuned 6.5 comps and no subs. I was amazed by the sound. He had the doors properly deadened and had 75W going to each speaker.

I was thinking about a pair of 8 ohm 6.5s in the rear deck, which I would deaden extensively. I would bridge the rear channels of my 50 x 4 Xtant amp (as it is now) and run the 6.5"s in parallel to present a 4 ohm load to the amp. Each rear 6.5" should see about 100w. I would low-pass at 125 hZ (most likely) and POSSIBLY (probably) use a subsonic filter to protect my subs.

What are people's thoughts on this option? First, it would give me more trunk space, and second, it would be a pretty unique setup.

I am in no way a basshead. I like nice "kick" to my music, which is mostly rock and alternative.

Click to read more...

 

[DeuceLee 10+ year member]

you should easily be able to use two 8's ib in the rear with minimal effort, just add some o rings to the subs and mount them from underneath...that should be very decent, should be able to give them 150-300rms depending on the sub...

 

[phenryiv1 10+ year member]

Well, the amp only puts out 50 x 4 (50 x 2 and 200 x 1 in my configuration), so the most that they will see is 100 watts, but using 8"s is a consideration.

 

[DeuceLee 10+ year member]

Well, the amp only puts out 50 x 4 (50 x 2 and 200 x 1 in my configuration), so the most that they will see is 100 watts, but using 8"s is a consideration.

i would get a dedicated amp for the 2 8's, what i would do is wait til monday and get two of the new aa assassins 8's, shouldn't be more then $80 a pop (i hope), and get a amp that puts out 600rms total, (300x2), that should fill your fantasies

 

[ItalynStylion 10+ year member]

I would do small enclosures for the 6.5's if you do them. I did 6.5's in the rear deck with enclosures underneath and it turned out incredible...now I get to be a pic *****

Chillin in the trunk wired up

Attached finally

Video of them before I attached them......

 

[ItalynStylion 10+ year member]

But, I would have to say that with your power I would go with the Tang Band 6.5"s instead...Also, what sort of power are you throwin at that IDQ?

 

[phenryiv1 10+ year member]

I never even saw that people had responded to this thread...

The ID 10 is getting about 200W RMS from the bridged Xtant. Unfortunately, I realized that the box that I have the ID 10 in is about 25% larger than it should be, which I am sure is making it sound loose.

My balance is this-

The 10" has more range down low, and has the advantage of a sealed box to keep it tight. BUT, it takes up space in the trunk AND it has to penetrate the rear seat/rear deck to get into the cabin. It has ABOUT 30-35" of cone area.

The (2) 6.5"s would mean more cost and have the potential for a loss of the tight sound that I crave, but would benefit from the fact that they are firing directly into the cabin with no seat to have to pass through. They would also be less efficient, based on being IB. (The trunk bars prevent boxes under the deck.) They would, however, have a little more cone area- 36-42" between the 2.

 

[bonesninja 5,000+ posts]

i would get the JL Audio 6W0's...incredible little 6.5" subs and they come in 8 ohm version as well

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=23

 

[wvufootball 10+ year member]

I heard 2 6W0s in a tiny sealed box in a shop once and i was suprised at the output

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

http://cgi.ebay.com/8-ID-8d4-Image-Dynamics-Dual-4-Ohm-Subwoofer-ID8d4-NEW_W0QQitemZ170088057623QQihZ007QQcategoryZ18802QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

get a pair of those, run each on a channel at 2ohms, and then IB them in the rear deck.

that would take minimal effort, would sound awesome, and would take up almost no room, and you would be able to upgrade the amplifier in the future //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

or a pair of these would work, however ive never heard them

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-833

or if you want to make it interesting, these have a good amount of cone area and should work great for your application. theyd be getting 1\2 power, but they should still work fine, the cone area should make up for the applied power. and a nice low Qts should help with the IB installation.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-838

 

[Warbleed 10+ year member]

Honestly I'd say get a pair of the TB 8s are parts express:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-854

They have a low qts and a low fs, which is an excellent combination for IB use. They are 4 ohm SVC drivers, so just get a small class D amp that will do 250-300x1@2 ohms, and you're set. A 2ch amp that does 125-150x2@4 ohms would also work, of course.

You really cannot beat the TBs for sheer displacement for your money, and they are ideal IB candidates, so that would be my choice.

 

[Death By Bass 10+ year member]

or get some sik by nines!

 

[phenryiv1 10+ year member]

I read all of the posts above and appreciate the input. So far, I think that 6x9s are the way to go.

Okay, just kidding there...seriously- I was joking.

Anyway, the TBs are looking pretty good. I love ID stuff, but the cost is a bit much for 2 subs to run IB. I also worry that I'd be underpowering them, and I have no IMMEDIATE plans to upgrade amps (though I may do so this summer). I plan to have this car only through the end of the year, so I am trying to keep costs low so that I have more $$$ to put into the new car. As of right now, adding a secong amp is out of the questions, as I really don't have a place to mount it.

One option that someone sent to me via PM was a pair of these: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-335

(Specs: *Power handling: 50 watts RMS/75 watts max *Le: 1.15 mH *Znom: 8 ohms *Re: 5.90 ohms *Fs: 36 Hz *SPL: 85 dB 1W/1m *Vas: .75 cu. ft. *Qms: 2.15 *Qes: .53 *Qts: .42 *Xmax 4.25 mm, Cutout Diameter: 5-5/8".)

His price was cheap, to say the least. He has them in his doors but wants to upgrade. In a cost/benefit situation, are these a fair choice? I am not asking if they will give the best sound (because it seems like some other options easily would win that crown), but they will fit my application and have the VC configuration that I need, and their power needs are in line with what I have. Since they seemed to be good door speakers, I'd imagine that they will be fine free-air- though I don't know how to read the specs very well (can anyone help me out there?).

I am looking into some of the options above, since several are true SUBwoofers, whereas the Daytons are simple woofers.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

[jdawg 5,000+ posts]

What about 1 15, mounted on a baffle of 3/4" mdf directly behind the seat, sealed up all around? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-455

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I read all of the posts above and appreciate the input. So far, I think that 6x9s are the way to go.





Okay, just kidding there...seriously- I was joking.

Anyway, the TBs are looking pretty good. I love ID stuff, but the cost is a bit much for 2 subs to run IB. I also worry that I'd be underpowering them, and I have no IMMEDIATE plans to upgrade amps (though I may do so this summer). I plan to have this car only through the end of the year, so I am trying to keep costs low so that I have more $$$ to put into the new car. As of right now, adding a secong amp is out of the questions, as I really don't have a place to mount it.

One option that someone sent to me via PM was a pair of these: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-335

(Specs: *Power handling: 50 watts RMS/75 watts max *Le: 1.15 mH *Znom: 8 ohms *Re: 5.90 ohms *Fs: 36 Hz *SPL: 85 dB 1W/1m *Vas: .75 cu. ft. *Qms: 2.15 *Qes: .53 *Qts: .42 *Xmax 4.25 mm, Cutout Diameter: 5-5/8".)

His price was cheap, to say the least. He has them in his doors but wants to upgrade. In a cost/benefit situation, are these a fair choice? I am not asking if they will give the best sound (because it seems like some other options easily would win that crown), but they will fit my application and have the VC configuration that I need, and their power needs are in line with what I have. Since they seemed to be good door speakers, I'd imagine that they will be fine free-air- though I don't know how to read the specs very well (can anyone help me out there?).

I am looking into some of the options above, since several are true SUBwoofers, whereas the Daytons are simple woofers.

Thanks for the help so far.

Dont forget power handling drops off significantly when running a speaker IB. I wouldn't be so worried about underpowering the drivers.