Confused!!!!!!!!

[bikejunkie223 10+ year member]

i want quality sound thats the main thing
and bass i dont want too much so that i cant even hear the music but something heavy n clear

thanks

If you want an inexpensive sub, that is quite musical and plenty loud inside the car, but not outside, I HIGHLY recomend the Infinity Basslink. It's a 10" sub, with a 10" passive radiator, and a 200w Class D amp in one housing. It will work from RCA inputs or speaker-level inputs, and has a remote knob to turn the sub up or down as you wish. I think mine sounds fantastic, you won't win any trophys with one, but it sounds badazz. Check out:http://cgi.ebay.com/BRANDNEW-INFINITY-BASSLINK-X-10-POWERED-SUBWOOFER-L-K_W0QQitemZ5807670417QQcategoryZ32822QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

These seem to be around $200, for a sub, enclosure and amp that sounds like it does while using a minimum of space.... pretty sweet IMHO

 

[Ignatowski 5,000+ posts]

Kingwood?? Lmfao!!!!

This pisses me off,a new guy comes asking questions and he gets heckeld

I dont know what a Kingwood is,never heard of them but was this really nessasary?

Did your mommy not love you as a child ?

grow the fvck up biotch!

 

[newdavid 10+ year member]

i just saw this ad on ebay have something to make sure

Model: tsa6990s

5-Way speakers

800 Watts Max Output (400 watts max each speaker)

160 watts RMS rated (80 watts RMS each Speaker)

Interlaced Aramid Fiber

Reinforced IMPP Cone Woofer

Frequency Response 25 ~ 32,000 Hz.

Efficiency 93 dB

Impedance 4 Ohm

Crossover frequency 3,000Hz

Mounting Depth 87mm

Dimensions 264 x 184 x 120mm

Tweeter 22mm

570g Strontium Magnet

Butyl Rubber Surrounds

66 mm. Balanced Dome Midrange

37mm Cone Tweeter

18mm Ceramic Dome SuperTweeter

Deep Basket design

Free Grilles included

http://cgi.ebay.com/PAIR-NEW-PIONEER-6x9-800-WATT-5-WAY-CAR-STEREO-SPEAKERS_W0QQitemZ5808267116QQcategoryZ58031QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

the box says 400watt max power is that for only 1 speaker ? i thought it was combined watts of both speakers

is it always for one speaker ?

thanks

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

The only thing that matters is the RMS. RMS is for regular use. MAX is in some lab and it may only last @ max for fractions of a second.

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

I cant do ebay @ work. How much are those 5 ways? I would reccomend a small component set.

 

[newdavid 10+ year member]

those are about 90$

so RMS is like normal widout amp ....

my stereo is 50w x 4 if i hook these up will i get 80watts x 4 ? or still 50 ?

thanks

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

those are about 90$

so RMS is like normal widout amp ....

my stereo is 50w x 4 if i hook these up will i get 80watts x 4 ? or still 50 ?

thanks

The RMS power of a speaker is how much power it can handle, not how much power you'll get out of your headunit/amplifier.

Also, if that "50w x 4" is from your headunit....you won't get anywhere near that much out of it. Most put out in the vicinity of 10w - 15w RMS. So, those speakers would get around 10-15w each.

 

[newdavid 10+ year member]

so how can i get all that 80 rms out of that speaker ? or atleast 50 rms ?

have to connect it to high power amp ?

if those are 800 watt speakers

i need like 2 channel 800 watt amp ? 2 x 400 watt ?

all i am trying to do is if i pay for 400 peak power or 50 watt rms

i somehow want to get atleast 300 peak and 30-40 watt rms out of it

thanks

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

You don't get power out of the speaker...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[newdavid 10+ year member]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif

i think I GOT IT NOW

Speaker Size 6" x 9"

Design 4-Way

Sensitivity 93 dB

Frequency Response 25 Hz - 33 kHz

Peak Power Handling 420 wats

RMS Power Handling 80 watts

Impedance 4 ohms

IF I CONNECT THIS AMP with 4 of these speakers i will get 60 watts rms from each right ? and thats how it should be ?

4-channel car amplifier

60 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts x 4 at 2 ohms)

150 watts RMS x 1 bridged output (rear channels only) at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

variable high-/low-pass filters (50-300 Hz at 12 dB per octave)

bass boost (10 dB at 40 Hz)

Tri-way capable

MOSFET power supplies and output stages

CEA-2006 compliant

preamp- and speaker-level inputs

i better be right this time man : ((

 

[OlogyAudio 10+ year member]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/furious.gif.fc81ca146dbff91fede3ed290dbc4f4c.gif

Poor dude --

Anywho... how it should be done...

The head unit decodes whatever music you happen to want to play... it turns it into voltage coming out of the line out jacks in the back... The low level voltage gets to an external amplifier -- it uses the crazy magic inside of it to create a higher voltage replica of the original low level source by using the car's DC power supply...

The signal is than run to your speakers... depending on how much voltage and current is coming out of the amp -- depends on how much power is being turned into sound (mostly turned into heat) -- at some point if the speakers eat too much heat they blow up...

The rating is simply... when they blow up... --- Now these ratings aren't very standard so you should take them worth a grain of salt and you have to analyze... hey what will this really take??? The ability to do that though comes with checking out bcae1.com -- reading the forums -- and thinking about things...

I mean I could help ya put a system together for X dollars but -- you would still end up being a fish out of the water when you went to install it... Research is your friend. I suggest doing a week or 2 of reading up on things and then start work on assembling a system...

Feel free to present questions if you read something and are having problems understanding it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[newdavid 10+ year member]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif
i think I GOT IT NOW

Speaker Size 6" x 9"

Design 4-Way

Sensitivity 93 dB

Frequency Response 25 Hz - 33 kHz

Peak Power Handling 420 wats

RMS Power Handling 80 watts

Impedance 4 ohms

IF I CONNECT THIS AMP with 4 of these speakers i will get 60 watts rms from each right ? and thats how it should be ?

4-channel car amplifier

60 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts x 4 at 2 ohms)

150 watts RMS x 1 bridged output (rear channels only) at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

variable high-/low-pass filters (50-300 Hz at 12 dB per octave)

bass boost (10 dB at 40 Hz)

Tri-way capable

MOSFET power supplies and output stages

CEA-2006 compliant

preamp- and speaker-level inputs

i better be right this time man : ((

I AM STILL WRONG ?

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

You are closer than you were before...

There would be no reason to have 4 6x9s. But, perhaps 2 rear 6x9s and the 5 1/4s from pioneer you mentioned earlier. I wouldn't go this route, but to each thier own.

You don't "get from" speakers. The amplifier pushes, in this case, 60w rms to the speakers. Speakers do not create power, more like an output of power. Just like a lightbulb. It doesn't make power but uses it to do something. A speaker makes noise, a lightbulb makes light.

The CEA-2006 mention on there is an industry attempt to standardize how speakers, amps, ect. are rated.

What amp is that by the way.

 

[newdavid 10+ year member]

that was one of the sony amps i saw at ebay

is it good ? for the pioneer speakers ?

80 watt rms

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

I don't know which model so I will say they are "okay". Do you know how to install it once you get it. Also buying the wire and stuff is sometimes costly. Keep those things in mind while planning.