confused !

db = loudness?

frequency response = range of sounds the speaker can make? (20 - 20 000 Hz is best)

MAX Power = ???

RMS = ???

just need feedback if im on the right track and if you can clarify the ??? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif thanx a million peepz.

 
speaker ratings or amp ratings???

for speakers, IMO:

db = efficiency - 1 watt at 1 meter = x dbs, (various freq make it a grey area and for subs, not so important anyway)

max power=usually thermal limits of driver components

rms = power that the speaker can handle all day long w/o voice coils overheating

 
Max on amp= full power that amp can produce under full clipping. RMS on amp= is the continious power amp produceses without clipping.

Max on subs= amount of power a sub can handle for a short amount of time RMS= continious amount of recomended power manufacturer recommends. This number is install dependant. If you use a small sealed box the driver could handle more power. If you use a large sealed or ported box it wont take as much power to make the sub reach full potential.

 
Neither is better or worse. Just depends on what we are talking about, and what you are looking for.

More power does not inherently mean it's louder or sound better. Sub X with 800w could very likely be louder than Sub Y with 1200w.

 
forget all the other mumbo jumbo, lets just say everything is the same in all the speakers, EXCEPT the power ratings which would you choose, a 450 W MAX / 100W RMS or 260W Max / 100 W rms ??

 
Both would be exactly the same.

TOTALLY IGNORE MAX POWER HANDLING!! IT IS TOTALY, 100% MEANINGLESS

RMS is the ONLY thing that matters. Do not base a single part of your decision on Max power handling ratings. Zero. Zilch. Nada. Totally meaningless.

 
*hug* thank you thats all i wanted to know lol, so now i know ill go for the cheaper one //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

are there any threads that have like a fully detailed post about things like ratings, frequency, decibels, etc. etc. ive read all the ones about components and all that, very very thorough i think and good job on this forum, very helpful, OBVIOUSLY //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
IMHO don't ever look at the max rating on speakers b/c they don't mean ****. the rms is the only thing that you need to know. It ussually isn't a little extra power that blows speakers, it is distortion and clipping...etc...

 
*hug* thank you thats all i wanted to know lol, so now i know ill go for the cheaper one //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
are there any threads that have like a fully detailed post about things like ratings, frequency, decibels, etc. etc. ive read all the ones about components and all that, very very thorough i think and good job on this forum, very helpful, OBVIOUSLY //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Don't know of any off hand, but honestly most specs given by manufacturer's for "regular" speakers are pretty meaningless. The sensitivity rating doesn't tell you which will ultimately get louder...only that one will need less power for a given output level. Frequency response is meaningless as it's install dependent, and also just because a speaker can play a certain frequency it doesn't mean it's practical to do so or that it will actually sound good playing that frequency. RMS power is only really useful to help you select an amp/decide what will work well with your amp. Max power is totally meaningless. And that's pretty much all the main manufacturer's tell you.

If you want a run down of T/S parameters (in the rare event you actually get them for a component set/co-axial), good info can be found here: http://editweb.iglou.com/eminence/eminence/pages/params02/params.htm

 
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