Component speaker for rap music, looking for good bass, and clear tweeters.

[duro78 10+ year member]

always loved that bodystyle ss nice dd

 

[Horsemanwill 10+ year member]

if i had your car i'd go horns and 6x9 mids in the doors //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

wth

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

If you have time alignment you can bring the rear stage upfront you just have to know what you are doing.

You could use so much time alignment that it shows up next week, and it's not going to fix that.

 

[Hevychevyjeff 10+ year member]

wth

wtf

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

wtf

exactly.

 

[Hevychevyjeff 10+ year member]

exactly.

If you don't like rap, or think it deserves decent speakers, and have anything to contribute why are you on here, pretty easy to avoid the topic when the title states what it's about.

move around then

 

[basebalz13 10+ year member]

for 400 dollars I would choose 2 sets of these.

CDT Audio COM-626 Component Set - Vertex Audio

I'm going to shoot you with a PM for 2 of them //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[basebalz13 10+ year member]

HAHAHAHA, I just realized that I sent ya a email from CACO, and sent you a PM here.

Over there I was under the impression you just wanted a single set of 400 dollar comps.

I would choose the 2 sets I recommended here over the single set from CACO. You just want something to keep up with your bass right ?

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

A get you a solid 250x2 amp B grad cdt es06 mids and tweeters with the 525/550 xover..

you don't need much more for daily..

 

[ithertz 10+ year member]

I agree with some others, just running a front stage gives you a more realistic sound. I would try the DD CX6.5 and if u just want the rear speakers DDCX6X9. Many people think dd just makes great subs. The highs and mids are like clean and super strong. If you dont have the JL amps yet, don't. I had some they are good but you can do better for the money. The ones I had the 300/4 and 450/4 will get hot after playing for a few hours(Like a good Saturday riding). Once again dd has an amp the dds4a check it out. It should cover all your hinds and mids needs. DDS4a Amplifier - DDAudio.com | Digital Designs : Speakers Made in the USA

 

[Hevychevyjeff 10+ year member]

Well I have a few choices I got it narrowed down to what would be the best choice.

1# Focal 165KPS upgraded version 165KPS UV (Upgraded Version) - http://www.woofersetc.com/p6701/165KPS-UV-(Upgraded-Version)--Focal-65"-PolyKevlar-Power-Components.htm

2# Rainbow Germaniums CS 265.25 - http://www.woofersetc.com/p7041/CS-26525--Rainbow-Germanium-65"-2Way-Component-System.htm

3# Image Dynamics XS-65s XS-65 - http://www.woofersetc.com/p5712/XS65--Image-Dynamics-65"-2-Way-Component-System.htm

4# CDT audio Eurosports ES-620Z - http://www.woofersetc.com/p1110/ES620Z--CDT-Audio-EuroSport-65"-2Way-Component-Speakers.htm

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

Only issue I see is that Woofers Etc. has been known to send out fake Focal and Rainbow speakers OR drivers from a lower line in their higher line of Focal and Rainbow component sets. If one wishes to take the gamble, then fine... It's your money! Just be warned that you may be getting the wrong driver or a counterfeit and Woofers will pull some BS excuse of being screwed by a distributor/shady source leaving you holding the bag.

 

[Hevychevyjeff 10+ year member]

Only issue I see is that Woofers Etc. has been known to send out fake Focal and Rainbow speakers OR drivers from a lower line in their higher line of Focal and Rainbow component sets. If one wishes to take the gamble, then fine... It's your money! Just be warned that you may be getting the wrong driver or a counterfeit and Woofers will pull some BS excuse of being screwed by a distributor/shady source leaving you holding the bag.

I don't have to buy them from woofersect but it was easy to put a link on there.

Also I thought they were a factory dealer for Rainbow?

anyways what about the speakers? not where they're from just the speakers themselves?

 

[jifisher]

I've been contemplating the CDT myself. Do you think these beat anything you can find at Best Buy? Problem with CDT is, I can't find a local dealer that carries them, so I can't test before I buy.

 

[DarkScorpion 10+ year member]

I've been contemplating the CDT myself. Do you think these beat anything you can find at Best Buy? Problem with CDT is, I can't find a local dealer that carries them, so I can't test before I buy.

Those CDT's will be better than anything bestbuy carries. And I feel ya, Austin has no high-end audio stores //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[Hevychevyjeff 10+ year member]

I ended up going with the CDT's I'm going to have to add a spacer to fit the cdts in the stock location, adding dynamat to the doors, and other suggerstions to get the most out of the speakers?

I'm pretty excited, I usually just thew some subs in the trunk and called it a day.

I'm trying to set up my car for Sq now, taking my time going to do a clean install. No more jerry rigging just to bump. I'm getting to old for that, kinda new to correct audio set ups. any help would be appreciated.

I'm doing a passive crossover right now, eventually i'm going to run active once I have the money for a extra amp, and I get a good grasp on how to do it properly.

Thanks for the help

Jeff

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

I would suggest sealing the access holes as good as possible and using a little SDS, Dynamat, Second Skin, whatever to dampen the sheet metal.

For sealing the access holes, I've found gorilla tape and house for sale signs to work great and NO I didn't steal mine from any houses for sale... The real estate agent who sold me this house in 2005 left one of her signs behind so I put it to good use. I never understood those who add sheet metal, galvanized tin, aluminum, etc to seal the access holes in the door. All they are doing is adding more crap to resonate to the beat of the music that is going to require more deadening. IMHO, metal on metal is the absolute WORST idea for sealing those access holes.

ETA: since you went with CDT, I would recommend mounting those tweeters off-axis or attenuating them down as much as possible if mounted on-axis because they can be quite harsh with some source material. I know because I have these in one of my vehicles:

 

[Hevychevyjeff 10+ year member]

I would suggest sealing the access holes as good as possible and using a little SDS, Dynamat, Second Skin, whatever to dampen the sheet metal.
For sealing the access holes, I've found gorilla tape and house for sale signs to work great and NO I didn't steal mine from any houses for sale... The real estate agent who sold me this house in 2005 left one of her signs behind so I put it to good use. I never understood those who add sheet metal, galvanized tin, aluminum, etc to seal the access holes in the door. All they are doing is adding more crap to resonate to the beat of the music that is going to require more deadening. IMHO, metal on metal is the absolute WORST idea for sealing those access holes.

ETA: since you went with CDT, I would recommend mounting those tweeters off-axis or attenuating them down as much as possible if mounted on-axis because they can be quite harsh with some source material. I know because I have these in one of my vehicles:

Thanks,

I'm a heating a/c guy so I have access to tons of sheet metal. That might of been one of my first choices. Thanks one of my daughter friends mom is a R.E. agent so im going to talk to her.

Thanks for the tip on the tweeters, i'll do that. I don't know when i'll get subs in but atleast it'll sound good until then.

Thanks again