Clipping Help

[ethik]

Hello, I feel like I can push more power out of my system and would like some suggestions on how to do that.

Here is my build:

• 250A Mechman HO alternator
• Big 4 with 1/0 gauge SHCA OFC
• XS Power D5100R
• Sundown Audio SIA 3500
• Sundown Audio X Series v.3 10" 2 ohm DVC (wired to 1 ohm)
• 1.3 cubic foot ported box tuned to 33hz
• Pioneer AVIC-8200NEX

The sub is loud but the amp clipping indicator light on the remote turns on earlier than I would expect it to.

I have the subwoofer set to +10 (out of 10) on my deck and the gain around 1/3 of the way up. No bass boost on amp.

I think the shop that installed the wire in my car used 1/0 gauge CCA (fail). Also, I didn't see a lot of resistance on a multimeter between the amp ground and battery ground.

I am thinking I need better wiring from the battery to the amp, a second battery, or some tuning.

Thanks

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[SlugButter]

I would do a double run of 0 gauge power and ground with 3500 watts RMS using OFC wire. A single run of CCA 0 gauge isn’t enough for that amount of power.

 

[ethik]

I would do a double run of 0 gauge power and ground with 3500 watts RMS using OFC wire. A single run of CCA 0 gauge isn’t enough for that amount of power.

So 4 runs of 0 gauge direct to the amp with those machined dual input parts?

Can I use the chassis or do I need 2 runs of 0 gauge from the battery for the ground?

Do I need an additional battery? If so, what model?

Thanks

 

[SlugButter]

So 4 runs of 0 gauge direct to the amp with those machined dual input parts?

Can I use the chassis or do I need 2 runs of 0 gauge from the battery for the ground?

Do I need an additional battery? If so, what model?

Thanks

You can ground directly to the chassis. Did they just run a single 0 gauge to your amplifier from the front battery? I would do a double run of OFC from the front battery to the rear battery, and a double run off the back battery to the amp. Same with grounds. You can also just buy 2/0 gauge wire and do a single run instead of using 2 runs of 1/0 gauge. I wouldn’t use CCA wire for that amp unless I was doing 4 runs of 0 gauge for it. You’re going to want a nice smooth flow of amperage all the way from the front battery through your wire to the amplifier and out the grounds into your chassis, so make sure the grounds are as solid as the power wire. It can’t be choked off anywhere along the line to get good power from the alternator continuously.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Hello, I feel like I can push more power out of my system and would like some suggestions on how to do that.

Here is my build:

• 250A Mechman HO alternator
• Big 4 with 1/0 gauge SHCA OFC
• XS Power D5100R
• Sundown Audio SIA 3500
• Sundown Audio X Series v.3 10" 2 ohm DVC (wired to 1 ohm)
• 1.3 cubic foot ported box tuned to 33hz
• Pioneer AVIC-8200NEX

The sub is loud but the amp clipping indicator light on the remote turns on earlier than I would expect it to.

I have the subwoofer set to +10 (out of 10) on my deck and the gain around 1/3 of the way up. No bass boost on amp.

I think the shop that installed the wire in my car used 1/0 gauge CCA (fail). Also, I didn't see a lot of resistance on a multimeter between the amp ground and battery ground.

I am thinking I need better wiring from the battery to the amp, a second battery, or some tuning.

Thanks

Is your bass boost turned off on the amp? Something doesn't sound right to me. I'm running the same amp with a single run of power and ground.

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

Is your bass boost turned off on the amp? Something doesn't sound right to me. I'm running the same amp with a single run of power and ground.

You have lithium near the amp, so your situation is quite different from a lead acid battery under the hood.

@ethik I recommend adding a battery close to the amp or relocating your battery close to the amp. The biggest improvement to my electrical setup was adding a JY HP-40 near my amp. If you can afford it, I highly recommend that battery. I had a 320a alternator before I added the JY battery, but I'm curious if I would have needed the alternator if I had bought the battery first. You can get more for less money; I knowingly paid more for convenience.

I agree with @SlugButter that your chassis is sufficient for a ground path. I'll add, though, that that is entirely dependent on how solid your ground points are. Make sure to sand down to shiny, bare metal before attaching your wire, and connect your wire in a way that won't get loose over time. If your vehicle has a frame that you can mount to, drill and tap the hole in it [insert mom joke]. Make sure all your junctions/splices are solid, and coat all exposed metal with dielectric grease to keep them solid.

 

[ethik]

Thanks everyone.

Bass boost is off and I am not getting any dimming.

It sounds like I need to do two runs of 1/0 gauge OFC from the front battery positive to either the amp input or a rear battery.

If I add a rear battery should I use a shared chassis ground for the amp and rear battery or ground them separately?

Do I need a 300A fuse 12" or less from each amp positive input?

Do I need an isolator for the rear battery?

Is there a cheaper battery option instead of the JY HP-40?

What do you think of the JP40? https://www.down4soundshop.com/down4sound-d4s-jp40-12v-lithium-battery-6000-12000w/

How much worse off would i be if i just upgraded the wire and didn't purchase a second battery?

Thanks

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

You have lithium near the amp, so your situation is quite different from a lead acid battery under the hood.

@ethik I recommend adding a battery close to the amp or relocating your battery close to the amp. The biggest improvement to my electrical setup was adding a JY HP-40 near my amp. If you can afford it, I highly recommend that battery. I had a 320a alternator before I added the JY battery, but I'm curious if I would have needed the alternator if I had bought the battery first. You can get more for less money; I knowingly paid more for convenience.

I agree with @SlugButter that your chassis is sufficient for a ground path. I'll add, though, that that is entirely dependent on how solid your ground points are. Make sure to sand down to shiny, bare metal before attaching your wire, and connect your wire in a way that won't get loose over time. If your vehicle has a frame that you can mount to, drill and tap the hole in it [insert mom joke]. Make sure all your junctions/splices are solid, and coat all exposed metal with dielectric grease to keep them solid.

It sounds like he is sending a dirty or weak signal to the amp. Hey @ethik how many volts are your pre-outs?

 

[ethik]

It sounds like he is sending a dirty or weak signal to the amp. Hey @ethik how many volts are your pre-outs?

The head unit should be putting out 4V. I haven't checked with a multimeter. I'm going to upgrade the wiring and see if I need to something about a second battery.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Run 2- 10's with that amp wired to two ohms.

 

[optimusX]

I would do a double run of 0 gauge power and ground with 3500 watts RMS using OFC wire. A single run of CCA 0 gauge isn’t enough for that amount of power.

A friend is fixing the amp set up on his new truck project. It seems the previous owner used a single run of 0 gauge. We'll take a closer look at it tomorrow when the truck returns from installing the new tires from 4Wheelonline plus the alignment.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Your electrical is fine for the SIA3500. Just watch the clipping light on the bass knob.